Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

The days of Monkey Boy Service Calls are over...

Click here to check out our fun short course and learn how to get the most out of Appliantology.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Stay connected with us...

Samurai on Facebook - become a fan today! Sign up for our free newsletter and keep up with all things Appliantology. Subscribe to our YouTube channel for lots of appliance repair tips and help! Follow the Samurai on Twitter and get timely morsels of Appliantological Wisdom! Subscribe to our MST Radio podcast to learn secrets of the trade.
rolandvz71

Maytag SAV5701AWW washing machine tranny popping?

33 posts in this topic

She agitates and pumps fine, but when it comes to the spin cycle she makes this LOUD banging sound....I figured it was something stuck in the pump, but it DOES pump water.

As you can see in the video when I spin it by hand one way it is the agitate cycle, but i try to spin the opposite direction it looks like the tranny is locked up.

Thx all !

Edited by rolandvz71

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

It sounds like you need a new helix and pulley. They get worn and will not release the break so the tub can spin. Also check the thickness of the fiber washer with your calipers. The thickness spec is on the parts diagram at your parts vendor. Everything has to be pretty close to specs for this unit to spin. Good luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thx I will try it in the afternoon......I beleive I have some spare parts from a Amama I salavged.

Will keep all posted!

Any chance you have a service manual for this washer or one close to it?

Edited by rolandvz71

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK the drive pulley will not simply slide out over the tranny shaft due to the clearance of the milk stool and bearing assembly. So I fig I need to remove the inner tub. Well in doing I found the removable lint filter BUT there is another part what looks to be screwed into the tranny...I dont know what you called it nor do I have the tool to remove it but, its looks like it needs to come out for the tranny to slide thru the outer tub so I can remove the drive pulley once the milk stool and bearing assembly are removed from the entire outer tub. Also send pic of tool to remove the part in the second pic.

Am I not doing this right? Plz shed some light.....thx!

IMG_8892.jpg

IMG_8893.jpg

Edited by rolandvz71

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If nothing is leaking, you have gone to far, from the looks of your picture. I do not know what you mean by a lint filter. there is no lint filter under the tub. You are as far as you need to go. If I remember correctly, with the tub and tranny out and flipped upside down (which seemed the easiest and fastest to me) the sequence of the parts you need to deal with, from the end of the drive shaft; helix bolt, helix, washer, pulley, washer, and brake assy. the helix and the meshing part of the pulley will be truncated from the banging you heard. The other side of the pulley will be worn and melted. This reduction in the thickness of these parts keeps the brake from releasing, and further damaging the parts just spoken of. I also had a broken brake pad, so do a good inspection. The parts are not that expensive so get what you need or it will not work properly. The suampman has slogged through the mire, he knows, I hope this helps. Good luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One other thing, it looks like the shaft could use a ceaning with a fine emory cloth and light oil.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The lint filter is under the inner tub....I was able to remove the piece I could not remove in the pic above. From there everything came off and yes the tub appears to have been leaking the there is evidence of rusty water marks inside the cabinet. Also the tub bearings sounds rough when spinning it by hand....any chance any1 out there knows of a part #? Having a hard time tracking that one down. 1st pic shows lint filter to the left and tub bearing to right.....cant seem to find the tub bearing on the internet.

IMG_8894.jpg

IMG_8895.jpg

IMG_8896.jpg

The last photo had a lot of rust on it from the water leak (cleaned up since then).....this is the bearing that sounds rough when spinning on my fingers

Thx all !

Edited by rolandvz71

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No RegUS that is not the one, (that's the lower bearing that goes in the milkstool), this is the plastic tub SpeedQueen style. He needs the upper spin bearing that is encased in a rubber housing to press into the plastic tub, it comes in the "Triple Lip Tub Seal & Bearing Kit".

Tub Seal and Bearing Kit W10116791
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Tub-Seal-and-Bearing-Kit/W10116791/1258432
Tub-Seal-and-Bearing-Kit-W10116791--0090

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Whoa $98.......this rebuild is gonna send me into the red! Plus I still need to get the helix and pulley and washers also.......rrrrrrrr

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It sounds like you need a new helix and pulley. They get worn and will not release the break so the tub can spin. Also check the thickness of the fiber washer with your calipers. The thickness spec is on the parts diagram at your parts vendor. Everything has to be pretty close to specs for this unit to spin. Good luck.

So I should get 2 new washers then.....

http://www.repaircli...40065701/777269

http://www.repaircli...40063201/777262

to ensure tub will engage for the spin cycle

The brake looks fine from what I can tell

Edited by rolandvz71

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The plastic washer is the only one you need to check. If the ID (.63") and OD (2") is good and the washer is intact I would not bother with the washers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, I don't like these machines, they are pieces of junk that belong in the landfill or for use as a planter in somebody's yard. The tools for removing and replacing the hub, triple lip seal and bearing are no longer available, so I guess Whirlpool wants them to be thrown away as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I repaired one I got for $25.00. The guy said it had bad tranny. I just bought it because I had not seen one before and it looked pristine. I wanted the experience. Did not have trouble getting parts, but did'nt need triple seal. My wife loves it. I will see how long it lasts. I told her not to overload and I will do inspection once a year. Four months since repair so far so good.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you can get a hold of instruction sheet 16023370 it will shed some light on your task.....Samurai has one in his manual stash but I do not know how to post it ( out dated version though ).... I did one of these last night ... ( SAV2655aww )....You can use the standard Whirlpool spanner wrench to remove the Washer Hub.... A lot of banging away with the beater to remove the hub, really stuck with age and gunk...( Tub was stuck and broke off a tab on the Washer hub )..........suampman, in post # 7, you have the items listed in order incorrectly...... Screw..metal washer..Helix..Pulley..Metal washer..Plastic washer.. then brake..........I replaced the lower bearing cuz of water damage, If the lower bearing is in good shape , I have a shorter diss-assembly the does not involve removing the transmission or diss-connecting the springs ( especially the centering spring ).. Pictures to follow ............... You really do not need the Break/bearing removal tool, but you will need the 3M 800 sealant and the Grease ( NAPA Auto silicone is O.K. )........The plastic disk/wrench ( p/n 22002898..$ 10.00 ) is still available but the handle ( 35-2968 ) is NLA....You can adapt something........Charged the lady $ 295 for the repair, this machine is better than what is available out there right now...... ( sorry Scottthewolf :whistling: ).....

Edited by certified tech group 51

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you can get a hold of instruction sheet 16023370 it will shed some light on your task.....Samurai has one in his manual stash but I do not know how to post it ( out dated version though ).... I did one of these last night ... ( SAV2655aww )....You can use the standard Whirlpool spanner wrench to remove the Washer Hub.... A lot of banging away with the beater to remove the hub, really stuck with age and gunk...( Tub was stuck and broke off a tab on the Washer hub )..........suampman, in post # 7, you have the items listed in order incorrectly...... Screw..metal washer..Helix..Pulley..Metal washer..Plastic washer.. then brake..........I replaced the lower bearing cuz of water damage, If the lower bearing is in good shape , I have a shorter diss-assembly the does not involve removing the transmission or diss-connecting the springs ( especially the centering spring ).. Pictures to follow ............... You really do not need the Break/bearing removal tool, but you will need the 3M 800 sealant and the Grease ( NAPA Auto silicone is O.K. )........The plastic disk/wrench ( p/n 22002898..$ 10.00 ) is still available but the handle ( 35-2968 ) is NLA....You can adapt something........Charged the lady $ 295 for the repair, this machine is better than what is available out there right now...... ( sorry Scottthewolf :whistling: ).....

To each their own, you didn't work for Maytag Factory Service and get 3-5 of these pieces of junk a week to replace the triple lip seals and tub bearings, milkstools and bases to replace when they were only 1 or 2 years old when you had 10 to 12 calls a day to do like I did. That's one reason I have such a hatred for these washing machines. They also expected us to get our compressor and evaporator replacement jobs and outer tub jobs on the front load washers done in 8 hour days without putting in overtime.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok here is the latest.....ordered the

Helix

Drive Pulley

plastic washer and

both bearings (tub and milkstool)

also replaced the seal nut

Cleaned the lint filter and outer tub and glad to say she's up and running w/out a hitch

Thx all for the input!!

Edited by rolandvz71

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

........ Yet

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yea yet....... guess we shall see on another episode of "As the Washer Turns"

Edited by rolandvz71

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Btw, one tip. I use my torch to heat the hub up and it lifts off like a charm. I just did one of these because the customer insisted on getting it fixed.

Edited by Scottthewolf

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To each their own, you didn't work for Maytag Factory Service and get 3-5 of these pieces of junk a week to replace the triple lip seals and tub bearings, milkstools and bases to replace when they were only 1 or 2 years old when you had 10 to 12 calls a day to do like I did. That's one reason I have such a hatred for these washing machines. They also expected us to get our compressor and evaporator replacement jobs and outer tub jobs on the front load washers done in 8 hour days without putting overtime.

Ok seems like this washer (Maytag SAV5701AWW) to some people are not high in the list......So let me ask you I read were some mentioned these are set up like the Speed Queen. Now from what I have seen and read the SQ and this Maytag look pretty much the same as far as tranny and motor set up. ..... Am I wrong? Also I have seen SQ's in landuary matts and seem to think if the SQ is good eoungh for a commmerical enviroment then it should good for my home use. http://austin.craigs...3383895664.html

Edited by rolandvz71

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites