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DIYGranny

Lid switch on top loading washer

13 posts in this topic

The washer would not spin or drain. After reading here, I tried the lid switch and nothing. Reached in under and it came off in my hand. The little plastic "sockets" where the screws screw into were both cracked and came off into my hand when I wiggled them. But the switch worked fine when I manually closed it.

I now have it rigged up with the switch taped closed and the wirin extending up out of the machine opening. I encased the switch box itself in plastic and secured it with duct tape to the deck of the machine. The lid ALMOST closes, but of course the wires are there.

Questions:

1. Coming out of the middle of the lid switch is a 6-8" long piece of clear plastic tubing. Very small diameter. What is this? Did it encase the ground wire?

2.) Is this set up dangerous in terms of electrical hazard? I know about the danger of the lid switch being inoperable.

3.) Is it possible to use superglue to reattach the still operating lid switch back to the underside of the deck of the machine? (I will need to wait for an older grandson to come and assist with getting the cover off and upside down. It is in a small space)

Any input you have on this would be appreciated. I've been using it for two days now and it works fine, by the way.

Thanks in advance for all the good advice.

DIYGranny

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

You should just replace the lid switch. We need your model so we can show you which lid switch your machine takes.

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The cost of the safety switch is cheap compared to the story we will be reading in the newspaper..... " Old Lady Found On Floor With Arm Ripped Off"... :dontknowaboutyou: ......It does happen.......

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That is one reason appliance technicians should NEVER bypass a lid switch on a washing machine, even if the customer asks you to. If the customer begs you to do it, you should kindly refuse and tell the customer that your insurance company and legal reasons prevent you from doing so and you pack up your tools and leave.

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ALSO, Does anybody want to know the story on the Maytag lid switch part # 22001682? Why does it have a check switch (microswitch) & a Cherry switch and a fuse?

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Lid-Switch-Assembly/22001682/1468

They manufactured this switch set up because on an older A series Maytag Dependable Care top load washer the single lid switch failed in the closed position, the customer opened the lid while the machine was spinning, reached in the washer and broke her arm in 4 spots and had to have surgery on her arm and sued Maytag.

The check swith ( the microswitch which is the smaller of the 2 switches) is designed to open the circuit if the big Cherry switch fails in the closed position. If the microswitch fails in the closed position it is designed to blow the fuse.

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similar to the (3) Door Switches in a M/W Oven

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When my Kubota tractor was delivered, the guy from the dealership said (ill paraphrase)" look, I know your a service tech, and eventually one of the many interlock switches(seat, interlock, clutch etc) will fail, and your gonna be tempted to bypass it just because you can... Just remember that every one of these safety interlocks is there because somebody either got maimed or killed. Every warning sticker on this thing is there because somebody died, so just dont do it, ok"?

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Thank you for your replies and also for the safety cautions. I was aware of them and had watched the video about the girl. On the adult woman who opened the lid and stuck her arm down into the spinning tub - what can I say? It is for these people the safety switches are installed, that's for sure.

As an aside, this old(er) lady started her "laundry career" using a (pre-owned) single bowl wringer washer. Then graduated to a (pre-owned) double bowl Dexter and thought I'd died and gone to heaven. Everything was hung on clotheslines, either outdoors when weather permitted or inside in the basement. The big danger in those days was fingers and/or arms going through the mechanical wringers as you fed the clothes through.

I promise that I will not put my arm down into the spinning tub. And I will go ahead and order a new switch. BUT, I still have the pieces that fell off the existing operating switch, so could probably superglue them onto the switch and may well try this prior to purchasing a new one.

Now, will somebody please answer the questions I posed?

Thanks a lot.

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Now, will somebody please answer the questions I posed?

could be ...

was there a MODEL NUMBER posted ?

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I'm guessing the machine is a Whirly or KM of some ilk. The plastic tubing is a spark arrestor. Full motor current passes through the switch, which may generate a spark if the switch triggers during operation.

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Sounds a Whirlpool, But ( still waiting for the model number), the lid switch can be replaced from the top opening...If Maytag, in the console................... With a model number to us, you could have gone to your locale appliance store and be up and running by Saturday the 29th........Two Philip screws and a 5/16" wrench........( I use a 'ratcheting' wrench just for this operation )....

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