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pzion

Whirlpool WTW5505SQ1

76 posts in this topic

For sure that is a genuine FSP part. From the date code on the package, (121709 - I believe is 12/17/2009), not current brand new stock, I've ordered these a long time ago in the past and one less than a year ago and never had a new spin gear come with a neutral drain kit. I wonder where they come up with that kit when no one else has it packaged that way????

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Hello again.

 

I got the FSP parts and removed the gearcase. It's now in a vice and I removed the screws.

 

Any suggestions on how to remove the gasket sealer so I can get the cover off?

 

Thanks.

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Use a putty knife and gently tap the handle going all the way around.   It won't take much and it will pop loose.

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While you have the cover off, replace the cover seal.............P/N 3349985...............and for your added viewing pleasure,  replace the drive shaft seal..P/N 285352......If any oil leaked out, top off with 30 wt. non-detergent motor oil..........Reseal the cover with  a  RTV sealant....or Form-a-Gasket. ( no pressure in the gearbox if the vent is clear )...This machine should give you years of service except for the occasional broken lid switch.........4152011036.jpg................4152011023.jpg............

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Is there an easy way to test to make sure the gearbox is functioning correctly now? I didn't see any damage to the spin pawl or any of the other parts.

 

Also, I got some 85W gearcase oil to replace the oil.

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What I mean is - is there a test I can do on the gearbox before I reinstall it in the machine to make sure it's now repaired?

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  Take one half of the motor coupler, put a long bolt through it and tighten a nut on the other side, chuck the bolt into your reversible drill and use that to run the gearcase in either direction to test it out.

 

Eric

Edited by fairbank56

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  Take one half of the motor coupler, put a long bolt through it and tighten a nut on the other side, chuck the bolt into your reversible drill and use that to run the gearcase in either direction to test it out.

 

Eric

Thanks.

 

I'm not sure how to get the coupler off of the motor shaft. Don't want to damage it trying.

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  Just pry it off with a couple screwdrivers on each side at the same time. If it's old and brittle, it might break but they are only around $10

 

Eric

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Ok - thanks. I got it off and am going to post a video of the open gearbox. I'm wondering how to tell if the neutral drain is working (by watching the open gearbox)?

Edited by pzion

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  Run the input shaft CCW (agitation mode) for a few seconds to set neutral drain, then run it CW for neutral drain. The large spin gear should not be turning during neutral drain. Stop the drill for a few seconds, then start again CW and the large spin gear should now start turning. Iv'e never tested neutral drain this way and it may not work because with the gearcase removed, there is no resistance to the spin gear as there would be with the gearcase installed. The neutral plate rotates in neutral drain and there will be friction between the spin gear cam and the spin gear hub. You could try holding the spin pinion gear to simulate the external resistance.

 

Eric

Edited by fairbank56

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did you download and read this info ?

.

I had, but now that I've seen the gearbox open, it's a little easier to understand.

 

Thanks.

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Here's the video:

th_transmission001_x264_zpsb8a3c10e.jpg

Edited by pzion

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  After agitate mode, it seems to work in neutral drain for a second or two and then quickly goes into spin and we already know that neutral drain isn't working based on your previous video. I would just install a new neutral drain kit.

 

Eric

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I've never had a gearcase open ever. I've always replaced complete gearcases. Not worth my time or trouble to repair a gearcase.  Time is money. The more calls I can do, the more money I can make, since we are flat rate. The same goes for restringing dryer elements, I would rather just mark up my parts more than to charge more for labor. We are appliance technicians, not part rebuilders.

Edited by Scottthewolf

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After agitate mode, it seems to work in neutral drain for a second or two and then quickly goes into spin and we already know that neutral drain isn't working based on your previous video. I would just install a new neutral drain kit.

Eric


Maybe there wasn't enough centrifugal force from the drill to keep the latch in position? The video is showing the gearcase with the new parts already installed. Edited by pzion

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  That's a good possibility as well as the fact that there is no physical resistance on the spin pinion gear to prevent the spin gear from rotating, as there normally would be during neutral drain. The neutral plate spins all the time and during neutral drain, the latch is engaged with the cam ring which spins on the spin gear hub. There is enough friction there to spin the spin gear if nothing is holding it. That's why I suggested holding the spin pinion gear during the test.

 

  Actually, now that I remember, it takes 3 rotations of the neutral plate in spin direction before the latch engages for neutral drain and you can sorta see that in the video.

 

Eric

Edited by fairbank56

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Love the video

Edited by nickfixit

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It seems like the latch is not connecting with the cam to cause it to slip on the hub for pump out. I tried holding the spin gear during the agitate mode and the cam still only slips for about 3 rotations before it catches for the spin.

According to the manual, the latch is supposed to keep the cam slilping until the motor stops.

 

I wonder if the gear oil is necessary to make the latch swing out.

Edited by pzion

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Actually, wouldn't the problem be that something is causing the spin pawl to move out and catch one of the bosses on the spin gear?

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Starting to put it back together. I don't see how to install the shaft seal. This is a picture of the shaft. When I scraped it it looked like metal.

transmission001_zps7ff8f02b.jpg

 

This is a picture of the empty gearcase and cover. (Thought it might be of interest).

transmission003_zps468ed4ae.jpg

Edited by pzion

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While you have the cover off, replace the cover seal.............P/N 3349985...............and for your added viewing pleasure,  replace the drive shaft seal..P/N 285352......If any oil leaked out, top off with 30 wt. non-detergent motor oil..........Reseal the cover with  a  RTV sealant....or Form-a-Gasket. ( no pressure in the gearbox if the vent is clear )...This machine should give you years of service except for the occasional broken lid switch.........

 

I'm having trouble getting the cover seal off. It's coming off in pieces and seems to be attached with gasket sealer.

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Found a way to do it -- I put it on top of a propane burner and when the flames stopped, I saw that what was left of the cover seal had fallen out.

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