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RedToryTy

Frigidaire FEF336ECG tripping the clock

16 posts in this topic

To the Dojo,

I have this freestanding range kicking my @$$. I pulled the L2 OUT off the clock, and the clock will cycle fine. With L2 OUT connected to either bake or broil, the clock resets seconds after pressing "BAKE" to initiate preheat. Household receptacle--a four-prong with L1, neutral, and L2 wired from left to right--reads 240VAC at lines 1 and 2, and 120VAC at line 1 or 2 and ground. ANY useful questions? What am I missing?

Thanks in advance,

Tyrus

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

... 120VAC at line 1 or 2 and ground.

... receptacle--a four-prong

measured while you press Bake or Broil ?

and measure between Neutral and ground while you press Bake or Broil

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No; measured when disconnected.

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Connected to L2 OUT and BROIL, get .354 VAC with clock and element connected.

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I am sure you already considered these:

1. Bad clock

2. Bad connection at receptical/cord

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So with L2 OUT disconnected, you get 120vac between the terminal on the ERC to ground; but with L2 OUT connected, you get essecntially 0vac? If this is correct, then it sounds like the ERC is failing under load ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Oven-Control-Board/316455400/1194732?modelNumber=FEF336ECG

Oven-Control-Board-316455400-01028898.jpg

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No; measured when disconnected.

all voltage measurements should be made with the devices connected, and with the problem function enabled

(unless otherwise directed)

while you press Bake or Broil, measure for

120vAC between L1 and ground

and

120vAC between L2 and ground

and

0vAC between Neutral and ground

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This just in:

After pulling the connector cover for the cord on the back of the range, I measured 93-101VAC from L1 (Black) to Neutral and 159VAC from L2 (Red) to Neutral. Will be swapping the cord for further tests; more news as this story develops.

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something is wrong with the Neutral / ground ..

one or the other may have a bad connection

There should be 0v between them

(connected together at the House Breaker Box)

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Reg,

The voltages I mentioned previous were measured at the cord connection at the base of the range, not at the clock. How does this change your diagnosis?

Something hinky that stuck with me: when I checked the bake and broil elements for grounding, broil registered 30 ohms of resistance between the element and the chassis.

Will check for 120VAC between Ls 1 & 2 and neutral when I go back.

Help me, Obi Wan Kenobi; you're my only hope.

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broil registered 30 ohms of resistance between the element and the chassis.

Sounds like a grounded broil element done fizzled your control

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Broil-Element/316199900/2210850?modelNumber=FEF336ECG

 

Broil-Element-316199900-01447700.jpg

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Oven-Control-Board/316455400/1194732?modelNumber=FEF336ECG

 

Oven-Control-Board-316455400-01028898.jp

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The voltages I mentioned previous were measured at the cord connection at the base of the range

How does this change your diagnosis?

bad Neutral in Power Cord, Wall Outlet, House wiring, or Breaker Box

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Kdog,

Even with the broil element disconnected, the clock blink "12:00" as soon as it attempts to energize the "BAKE" element.

I'm just confused how the voltages can be correct at the receptacle, but measure 92-101 and 153-160 L1 and L2 respectively at the base of the oven.

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... I'm just confused how the voltages can be correct at the receptacle,

... but measure 92-101 and 153-160 L1 and L2 respectively at the base of the oven.

measured while the Oven / Cord is still connected ?

bad Neutral in Power Cord

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Something is wrong with the neutral/ground. These kind of problems make machines act CRAZY!

Those voltage readings just sound like a bad neutral.

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Hook your meter up to the receptacle with the range plugged in and watch the voltage when you turn range on - does it change ?

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