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Mowgli

ASKO dryer wont shut off

13 posts in this topic

This is an ASKO dryer model 7005 type TD70A serial number 983620018107. It drys clothes on timer, but will not shut off on auto. From other posts I have been led to believe that there are no moisture sensors but that the auto timer advances because electricity is applied to the timer during cool down cycles. Therefore I opened the front and removed the duct allowing the dryer to vent into the room. At this point the duct is open just past the Hi and Lo thermostats. The thermostats each have 3 leads. With a meat thermometer and a voltmeter the following was obtained.

The heat cycles between about 140 and 165. All leads are at a steady 120 until 165 and then lead Lo 2 pulses greater than 120v often higher than 200 and heat cools down.

If I disconnect Hi leads 2 and 3 all Lo leads stay 120 but the temp never rises above 120 degrees altho it does heat.

So I think the supply A and B must be from different legs of the 240v plug and that somehow the high pulse must signal the timer. However, I don't understand why disconnecting Hi doesn't shut off the heat altogether. Do you think that I need to replace 1 or both of the thermostats ( at $85 each) or could the problem be with the timer itself?

Would really like a wiring diagram for the unit.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

I PMed you the parts manual with schematic diagram.

The problem is most likely not the timer since it advances in timed dry mode. Most likely, one of the thermostats is failing to switch after it heats up. One easy way to check them is to remove them and put them in an electric skillet to 150F and see if the contacts switch from 1-3 to 1-2. Whichever one doesn't switch is your bad actor.

Cycling Thermostat Low ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Cycling-Thermostat/8001444/762311

Cycling Thermostat High ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/High-Limit-Thermostat/8001543/762313

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Put the thermostats in the electric skillet. Both behaved identically. 1 was connected to 3,2 not connected. At 145 the connection 1 to 3 was broken, but 2 was never connected. upped to 170 with the same result. It is possible that the temperature is not accurate in that it is difficult to get much contact with the shaft of the thermometer on the pan, but if anything they would under read. The pan was too hot to touch and the dryer didn't seem that hot.

Back in the dryer the heat happily cycles between 140 and 170 and the auto timer does not advance. Do you see any alternative to ordering both thermostats?

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I have a similar problem with my Asko 7005 dryer.  Could you send me the parts manual, schematic, and service manual?  I will also test the thermostats.  Thanks.

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Holy schmoly, 78 bucks for a snap disc? That's real hard to swallow.

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But, but... it's genuine Ass Co. quality, made in Sveden, by godless, drunken, incestuous Svedes!  pgceiono.gif

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Boss, I gotta say that's the best way I've ever heard of testing a thermo disc.

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That's exactly why I shudder when I see somebody buy these "boutique" appliances that are so small .   The price of the appliances when you buy them, and the price of the replacement parts.

 

Holy schmoly, 78 bucks for a snap disc? That's real hard to swallow.

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I have a similar problem with my Asko 7005 dryer.  Could you send me the parts manual, schematic, and service manual?  I will also test the thermostats.  Thanks.

I tested both the high and low thermostats, and they both seem to work.  The dryer still does not stop on auto dry, but the timer works on timed dry.  However, at the end of timed dry, I noted that the heat inside the dryer was not as warm as I expected.  Could the dryer heating element(s) be defective, not reaching a high enough temperature to activate either the high or low thermostat?

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... Could the dryer heating element(s) be defective, not reaching a high enough temperature to activate either the high or low thermostat?

yes, that's a dual Heater, one section may be bad

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yes, that's a dual Heater, one section may be bad

After eliminating the hi and lo thermostats and timer as the culprits and thus suspecting the heater elements, I finally found the problem:  I tested the continuity of both elements in the heater with an ohmmeter, and neither was open circuited.  I then tried swapping the hi and lo heater elements on relay R2 and concluded that the hi heater contacts on R2 were not closing when the dryer was turned on.   Fortunately, there was a spare set on contacts on R2, so I moved the hi heater element wires to the R2 spare contacts, and now the hi heat comes and the dryer shuts off.

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Nice shootin'!  This should be your dryer's heater relay.

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