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vunger1

estate dryer no power EED4400WQ0

27 posts in this topic

Dryer wont turn on,has confirmed 240 volts to terminal block.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

thermal fuse is good ,start switch(should it complete 120volts to motor?

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ohmed out main and start windings, thought they were out of range.So i pulled the motor," destroying the blower fan wheel in the process",and on a whim ran 120 volt test cord (should of done this first)and the motor runs fine.Where could i be losing my power .

1)120 volts to red/white wire on start button

2)start button tests good for continuity

3)door switch good for continuity

4)thermal fuse is good

Where should I check next?

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no need to disconnect anything ..

Do some voltage tests while trying to run the Dryer...

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1)blue wire at thermal fuse=0 voltage / blue wire coming out of timer= 0 voltage.........bad timer? tests done with motor wiring harness unplugged from motor.

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black /L1 to timer = 0volts and also no amps(haha)

Why does my timer have to be bad?

Why couldn't it have been a bad thermal fuse,then it would cost less to repair and my profit after sale would be better(where more is better).

Just sayin...

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black /L1 to timer = 0volts

That's never a good thing, you sure you have proper power supplied ?

Where are you touching the second probe to ground ?

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black /L1 to timer = 0volts

bad Line Cord, or no power at Wall Outlet

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oops sorry yes there is 120 volts at black wire to timer

Edited by vunger1

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at the push to start button ,when i put 1 test lead on the red/white wire and 1 test lead on the neutral at the terminal block-i get 120v

but when i switch the test lead from red/white to the other side of the start switch(which is black on my dryer)i get 0v(this is with the start button pressed to complete circuit.)

So i disconnect the back wire from the start switch and test to the terminal only and(bada bing bawda boom)120v????????????

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... at the push to start button ,when i put 1 test lead on the red/white wire and 1 test lead on the neutral at the terminal block-i get 120v

... when i switch the test lead from red/white to the other side of the start switch(which is black on my dryer)i get 0v

are these both with the Start Button pushed ?

bad Door Switch (or wiring)

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=528948

 

Door-Switch-3406107-01157396.jpg

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the red/white wire is 120v ? Does it matter if the button is pushed when testing this wire?

second test , yes . The button is pushed to complete circuit from red/white to black...or is it from black to red/white?

Edited by vunger1

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isnt the start switch just completing the nuetral circuit?

Edited by vunger1

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I am getting 120v at push start with meter probes hooked 

 1-probe to red/white

 1-probe hooked to black

 

Should i have voltage there?

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Should i have voltage there?

yes, if the Start Button isn't being pushed

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what wires should i test for voltage at the motor?

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Blue and White (4&5) - did you check voltage BK-BU on timer ?

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Blue and White (4&5) - did you check voltage BK-BU on timer ?

bk-bu at timer = ovolts

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I have seen two of these in the last year with a high resistance between timer contacts C and B. As K-Dog said BK-BU. Good luck.

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I have seen two of these in the last year with a high resistance between timer contacts C and B. As K-Dog said BK-BU. Good luck.

with no voltage what would this mean?

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You have established that you have line voltage. If this is correct, jumper your push to start switch. Turn the dryer on timed dry.Make sure door switch is closed. Put your meter probe on neutral and the other probe on timer terminal C (Bk). You should have line voltage. From there take your lead from C and put it on terminal B of the timer(LBU). Keep your other meter lead on neutral. You should still have line voltage. If not the timer contact between C and B is bad. You will need a new timer. Hope this helps.

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