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Alcamo

Kenmore Elite 796.29272000 UE error.

30 posts in this topic

New to the forum, howdy everyone.

 

The machine would not spin correctly and made a bit of a noise, I replaced a broken Coupling Assembly, and the machine now goes into the spin cycle.  A few months out of warranty period, of course. 

 

Problem is that as soon as it gets a few minutes into the spin cycle, it blinks a UE (unbalanced load), then the timer goes back anywhere from 30 minutes to 13 minutes (depending on the type of wash cycle chosen) and keeps repeating the cycle right up to the spin, when the UE error pops up again, and the process repeats.

 

The machine is level, and the drum moves very little before setting off the unbalance error.  It will do this with an empty washer or a very well balanced load, makes no difference.

 

Any suggestions or insights welcome.  

 

I believe this machine is also sold as an LG5101.  Finding a service manual online would be a great help too. 

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Something doesn't add up, there is no drive coupling on that machine. I would look for a foriegn object between the basket and outer tub. After that, look for a broken wire near the motor harness connector. Next stop would be hall sensor.

 

Nick

Edited by nickfixit

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there is a coupling on that washer, at least its what lg calls it, its more like a "splutch"

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Wow, they do call that drive assembly a "coupling". I replaced one of those on the GE labled version. The main shaft broke off the end the wash plate connects , lots of bolts and screws to remove.

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I would look for a foriegn object between the basket and outer tub. After that, look for a broken wire near the motor harness connector. Next stop would be hall sensor.

 

Nick

The "splutch" gears were chewed up, and there was a metal washer (thin) which was chewed up too.  The metal washer did not show up in the parts diagram anywhere but it works fine without it.  No foreign objects in the basket.

 

I will order the hall sensor and change that, I wasn't sure if that's what sent the 'pter the data for "UE" or if there was another sensor. 

 

Thank you for the replies, and I'll post the results after changing the hall sensor.

 

Still looking for an online repair manual, can't even get an "official" service manual for the Kenmore number, I'll look for the LG version if I can get a positive ID on the LG model number for this thing.

Edited by Alcamo

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Something doesn't add up, there is no drive coupling on that machine. I would look for a foriegn object between the basket and outer tub. After that, look for a broken wire near the motor harness connector. Next stop would be hall sensor.

 

Nick

No foreign objects, no broken wires, brand new Hall Sensor, and it's doing the exact same thing. 

 

Any more avenues to pursue?  The load isn't really out of balance, as I said it does it with no load in the machine too, it has a glass top so it's visually verified. 

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Possibilities...

 

1) Warped STATOR

 

2) Out of Balance SPIN BASKET

 

3) Software glitch (No mention of any on LGs website,however)

 

A tough one.

Difficult to diagnose without the balance-machinery used during manufacturing.

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Can rule software out, I've already replaced the PCB board and the timing board, there's nothing left with software on it. 

 

The stator is looks new, I had to remove it to replace the hall sensor.  No indication of any contact with the rotor either. 

 

Nothing more I can do from the look of it,  going to call again and see if they're willing to do anything about this, the machine is 4 months out of the year warranty.  Expect an expensive machine like this to last a little longer than the el cheapo Kenmore it replaced (which lasted almost 20 years.) 

 

KISS principle from now on, (Keep It Simple Stupid) when it comes to appliances, if it has so much as a digital display, walk away.

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<<<Can rule software out, I've already replaced the PCB board and the timing board, there's nothing left with software on it.>>>

 

*************

 

Unless there's an as-of-now unknown issue (yet to be found & documented).

 

*************

 

<<<The stator is looks new, --- No indication of any contact with the rotor either.>>> 

**************

 

Can still be out-of-round enough to affect high RPM.

 

**************

 

<<<going to call again and see if they're willing to do anything about this>>>

 

**************

 

Sears?---That's what I'd do as well.

Perhaps they will exchange the washer for another.

 

**************

 

 <<<Expect an expensive machine like this to last a little longer than the el cheapo Kenmore it replaced (which lasted almost 20 years.)>>>

 

**************

 

Keep that thought in mind---the moment that you step into a voting booth.

Ask yourself---which candidate is for *empowering* the DOE/EPA------and which candidate does not :)

 

**************

 

<<<KISS principle from now on, (Keep It Simple Stupid) when it comes to appliances, if it has so much as a digital display, walk away.>>>

 

**************

 

I can empathize with that feeling.

The reality is that in the next 5 years---you'll be doing more walking away than repairs.

Unless retirement is next year---it's going to be impossible to stay in business & be profitable.


 

Edited by john63

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John63, Is LG the only brand you work on, or do you work for LG Service?

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Self-employed.

 

31 years :)

 

Pray tell---why doth thee ask?

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I have admitted defeat on this one, but before I surrender the sword, is the repair manual (more important the self test codes) available from LG for the LG5101?  I have downloaded and checked the GE version of this machine, but the test procedures for the board and the error codes are completely different.  There was a small "cheat sheet" inside the pcb cover, but the procedure outlined does not work, the machine will not go into diagnostic mode using the button sequence it stipulates. 

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The GE Harmony washer (LG built) and the LG/Kenmore Wave Force washer---are two different animals.

 

Wave Force Washer Test Procedure:

 

Press and hold the WASH/RINSE and SOIL LEVEL buttons

 

Press the POWER button and release all 3 buttons.

 

When the lid locks...

 

Press the START/PAUSE button...

 

1 time: Button Test

 

2nd time: None/no test function

 

3> Cold Water Valve function for the bleach dispenser

 

4> Hot water valve test for the softener dispenser

 

5> Cold water valve fill (at main dispenser assy)

 

6> Heater test

 

7> Wave Force test

 

8> Drain motor test

 

9> Pulsator function test

 

10> High speed spin

 

11> Off

 

Error definitions

 

OE> No Drain

 

UE> Unbalanced Error

 

dE> Lid Open Error

 

PE> Pressure Switch Error

 

FE> Fill Error (usually too much water)

 

LE> Locked Rotor Error (usually too much or wrong type of detergent)

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Self-employed.

 

31 years :)

 

Pray tell---why doth thee ask?

I ask because it seems all you answer is the LG and Samsung posts.

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I demand legal representation--if you're charging me with a crime :)

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I was just curious, by your posts it just seems LG is all you work on.

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<<<I ask because it seems all you answer is the LG and Samsung posts.>>>

 

<<<I was just curious, by your posts it just seems LG is all you work on.>>>


 

 

*********************************

 

You've blown my cover....

 

I confess---I am secretly in the employ---of the one and only---Moostafa!


 


 

Edited by john63

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. " The metal washer did not show up in the parts diagram anywhere but it works fine without it"

 

Any chance the lack of this washer is causing some problem? Could there be a problem with the shift actuator or the coupling/splutch?

 

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You've blown my cover....

 

I confess---I am secretly in the employ---of the one and only---Moostafa!

 

 

Hello, john63, my cover-blown friend.  It is most unfortunate that the persistent and clever scottthwolf has ferreted out our mutually-beneficial arrangement.  For many years, we have been blessed by Allah with a bountiful harvest of the revered poppy plant, thanks in no small part to the aid and support of your Ameedican military assisting with the harvest and packaging.  You and I enjoyed a particularly profitable business arrangement where you would supply Afghani poppy-derived products to your "appliance repair customers."  It was a wonderful cover story but, alas, the steel-trap mind and superior machine-like algorithmic deductive faculties of scottthewolf has discovered our business arrangement which must now come to an end.  I trust, however, that during the tenure of our business together, you have earned more than enough of the money you call Federal Reserve Notes to send all of your children to Ivy League colleges and still have enough left over for a comfortable retirement aboard your 80-foot dream yacht with a full crew and harem.  

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. " The metal washer did not show up in the parts diagram anywhere but it works fine without it"

 

Any chance the lack of this washer is causing some problem? Could there be a problem with the shift actuator or the coupling/splutch?

 

 

The reason the coupling broke was because of the UE error.  The machine would go into a loop, after the first or second UE error (at roughly 9 minutes left in cycle), the timer would go to 19 (or as high as 31 minutes, depending on cycle chosen) and would repeat this ad infinitem.  There was  a load in the machine which "washed" for 3 or 4 days while we were away for the weekend, the coupling couldn't take it.  The washer is paper thin, and looks like it's purpose to hold things together on the factory floor.  I'll post pics of the parts when I get a chance.    It's easy enough to pull again, but there's "nothing to see here" as it only goes in one way in one configuration with no adjustment.

 

The UE error was what caused the splutch to go.

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<<<and still have enough left over for a comfortable retirement aboard your 80-foot dream yacht with a full crew and harem.>>>

 

*******************

 

That little thing?

 

Business was so good that I sold it.

 

This one is on order---when it's done---bring your wives again and we'll ROCK !

 

 

 

http://blogs-images.forbes.com/clareoconnor/files/2011/01/Monaco-exterior.jpg

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The UE error was what caused the splutch to go.

 

Nyet, tovarish-- error codes don't cause anything except maybe gas and bile in folks who don't understand them.  The computer throws a "best guess" error code based on a failure condition that has already occurred.   

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With this machine, the UE code causes it to go back, fills with water, moves the load around and keeps trying and trying and trying to balance and spin the load, running for hours and hours on end.  The 3 tries and give up that the manual states is BS, it doesn't know how to count to 3 and goes into an endless loop.  It does it with the new PCB and timing board too.   The machine goes into groundhog day mode until you shut it off or pause it manually. 

 

Lots of "energy saving" with this thing...

 

Spoke with Sears rep, and they said they have to take it higher up the chain to see what can be done.  I wish this one had spun itself apart like many of it's bretheren, would have make things easier.    :whistling:

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<<<the UE code causes it to go back, fills with water, moves the load around and keeps trying and trying and trying to balance and spin the load, running for hours and hours on end.>>>

 

*********************

 

Most likely a software glitch.

 

If the MAIN BOARD became damaged by some type of "event"---replacing the Main Board would resolve the endless false Unbalanced Load detection/correction attempts.

 

However---if there's a manufacturing glitch--this would then potentially affect all of the MAIN BOARDS in a model-specific washer (or several models).

 

Case-in-point...

 

A few years back---a bulletin was published about a single model of LG front load washer (I forgot the model number).

 

The *fault* was that---during the spin cycle---the entire tub assembly could spin-out-of-control (no active imbalance detection).

 

The end result was always identical...

 

1) The entire tub assy fell to floor-level (jumped the support springs)

 

2) At least 1 strut/damper was broken (sometimes 2)

 

3) The door gasket was yanked off the front of the washer (sometimes torn/ripped)

 

4) The side panel sheetmetal may have dents from the tub assy slamming into it.

 

The correction was to replace the MAIN BOARD (revised) and the strut/damper(s)

 

Any other damage was also authorized for replacement if needed.

 

For those cases where the side panels were dented/damaged---the washer was exchanged for another.

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Main board was changed, manufacture date on the replacement is 4 months ago, so it must has latest software updates on it.  Does the same thing the original board did.  I'm putting the old boards back if Sears/LG decides to do a courtesy replace on this.  Board was on back order for about 3 weeks, I don't know if anything can be read into that or not. 

 

This things beating me like a rented mule.

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