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darcypa

Kenmore C970-624182 Overheating

10 posts in this topic

Wow,  It is funny that when researching the current problem with my Kenmore stove I found my old post http://applianceguru.com/forum1/20283.html

 

I sure hope I am not looking at replacing the EOC again.

 

It appears that the oven is overheating and I get the F1 error code.

 

Call for Broil, oven preheats, but temp keeps escalating then beeps, displays F1. 

 

As soon as it cools down I will be checking the temp sensor and the EOC.

 

Any Pointers?

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

The ES 300 has some self diagnostics built into the microprocessor to help in troubleshooting the system.
When a failure occurs one of three codes will appear in all the display windows; F1, F3 and F9.
F1 code:
An F1 indicates a malfunction in the control itself, and the control should be replaced.

 

Controller may be N/A

(may be re-built)

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Overheating kenmores have been known to give an f1 due to a faulty sensor or frayed wiring. Even if the sensor has proper ohm readings at room temp, it could fail or a frayed sensor wire could malfunction at high temps. It may well be the board but since you changed it out before, you may consider checking sensor connection and getting a new sensor from repairclinic. Send it back if it doesn't solve the problem. Also since the ecm is becoming obsolete, you have some figurin' to do..... ie it's kenny time.....

l Edited by DurhamAppliance

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... it's kenny time....

and

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Thanks for the Kenny Vid's

 

Yip Sensor ohms out at 1080 and wires all look good.  Took out the EOC and all buttons seem to be ok, no evidence of "cooked" ccts like the last time.

 

I guess I put it back together and test it again.  If It comes up F1 again - we go shopping for a new stove. - Just in time for Christmas. :-(

 

Darcy

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Oven Sensor could read OK at room temperature but be bad at higher temps ...

Does the Oven read-out match the actual Oven temperature (somewhat) ?

(Sensor and temperature portion of Controller may be OK, but maybe a stuck Relay)

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When reassembling I noticed that it appeared that the right hand burner lamp had broke off and it looks like it shorted against the front  right surface switch (cooked wires ).

 

Clipped the wires to the front right burner switch (cooked) and the right burner lamp just to be safe.

 

Tested the other burners and they are all OK.  Next I will test the oven to see if the short caused any problems with the controller.

 

Darcy

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Hmmm - Can't remember - When using the Oven (Bake or Broil) is the oven light supposed to stay on? Or does it go out periodicly?

 

If I set the temp to 350 Bake, the oven light and preheat light are both on, after preheat - the preheat light goes out and oven light stays on, then a bit later the oven light also goes out.

 

I will let it cool then time it.

 

darcy

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Bake 350 Oven and Preheat lights on

5:08 - oven light off but preheat light still on - Damn I wish I have a oven temp gauge - Also element went off display still indicates 350

7:16 - Preheat light off - Bake light is still on - element appears to be off - display still shows 350

me thinks the controller is done.

Darcy

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It's worth testing the sensor resistance at one or, prefereably, two other temperatures.  You should monitor the oven temperature using a K-type thermocouple (either a stand-alone instrument or as one of the built-in functions on better multi-meters) and then measure the sensor resistance at the sensor harness on the ERC.  

 

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