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MrDave

Microwave turntable turns when door is opened

57 posts in this topic

Go to Youtube and type in "butt connector" there's plenty of examples you can watch.

Edited by tpoindexter

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Okay, I understand now that I read again about the butt connectors. I mis-read it the first time (beer fog). I agree that's the method that should

be used to splice into the wiring. I really didn't want to use wire nuts.

 

While I am waiting for the switch I ordered to arrive, (it should be here by Wednesday) I have a question about it. The number on the original

burnt-out switch is: V-15G-3C25. The number on the switch I ordered is: D3V-16G-1C25. Will the new one work the way the old one did? Did

I order the wrong switch? Or am I worrying for nothing? The new switch was in one of the links to Repair Clinic that was posted in this thread.

I just want to fix the stupid thing and have it working properly again.

 

Thanks

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Doesn't matter as long as it's a Normally Open switch, Mr. Dave. You're very close to becoming a hero...don't fail us now...

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Doesn't matter as long as it's a Normally Open switch, Mr. Dave. You're very close to becoming a hero...don't fail us now...

Now see, this is one of the things that I was not aware of. I was under the impression that if you don't order the exact part,

then things might not work quite right. I know this applies to a lot of different types of parts that actually require the exact

replacement. With a part such as this, as long as it's normally open, then no problem. And I completely understand this. It's

an electrical component, and there can be a lot of different switches with different numbers on them, but they will all work

the same way. Now that I know this, all is good. The switch I ordered is a normally open switch. Thank you for the reply.

I think I have some butt splice connectors and the push-on connectors in my garage tool box. I just need to see if I have

a crimp tool. If not, Radio shack here I come.

Joy is near!

 

MrDave

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Okay guys, some news....I have fixed it! It works just like when it was new. I want to thank you for all your help.

What I did was cut the old connector off, crimped the new connectors onto the wire pairs, plugged them onto

the switch, and mounted the switch back into it's original location. re-attached the switch block, adjusted it

for proper door closure, put the cover back on, and did a test on reheating the wife's coffee. PERFECT!

She is as happy as I am. Thank you for bearing with me on this. I apologize for taking so long, but I also had to

wait for the switch to be delivered. I ask a lot of questions because I want to do it right the first time, not have

to do it three or four times before it's fixed. It's like when I used to train operators how to setup & run 4 & 5 axis

horizontal machining centers. I told them to not hold back on asking questions because the stupid questions are

the ones that aren't asked.

 

Thank you all again for your help and support.

MrDave

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Great job, MrDave!  A heroic ending to an epic topic.  Congrats on the repair!  pejthcmc.gif

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Thank you very much! I appreciate the support from you! :imnotworthy:

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