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peppie2013

maytag dryer MEDC400VWO, wired wrong. starts then turns off

22 posts in this topic

This dryer was wired wrong when changing over to a 4 prong plug. Once properly wired, when it is turned on the thermal protector on the motor makes a loud noise and then trips out and the motor stops. After 10 minutes or so it will rest and the motor will start again and repeats problem. I have tried it with the belt off and the drum removed. Is the motor burned out now?

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If by miss-wired you mean one of the hot lines got hooked to the neutral then yes motor is prolly toast...

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Thats what i figured. It burned a spot on the bottom post on the plug.

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I tried to get it out but the blower fan wouldn't come off. Going to have to cut the shaft to get it out. I did figure out it was a left handed tread but the plastic just broke off. Thank you. Robert

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did the Drum Light burn-out ?

and upon replacing, does it work OK, now ?

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Yes the light burned out but haven't replaced the bulb yet.Forgot to order one when i got the motor.  Getting ready to go install the new motor i ordered. Will update.

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Well,installed new motor and still a problem. Was sure that was it. The thermal protector still makes the same noise but turned it off before it tripped because i knew what the noise was. So, what else can be the problem? The light did blow out but after in ran a couple times while tripping the thermal switch on the motor. Have checked the heater and it isn't shorted out and the can't really find any shorts. Any help would be appreciated.

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does the Drum Light work, now ?

Dryer Power Terminal Strip

 

L <-------- 120v ---------> N <------- 120v ----------> L

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Will have to get a bulb and new socket as the socket that was there burned on the side(negative or neutral) where the threads are when it blew out.  Didn't think a bulb would cause this kind of problems. Will update. Thank you!

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Are you sure the recepticle was/is wired right? The cord could have been put on wrong deliberatly if the person knew the recepticle was wrong. Sounds weird, but I've seen it done. Take a look inside the recepticle and check it.

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Four-cord dryer cord wiring, at the receptacle...

 

4prong_dryer_outlet.jpg

 

... and at the dryer terminal block...

 

 

ge_dryer_cord_prong_small.jpg

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Ok, maybe we need to start over. Daughter's father in-law hooked up power cord to dryer incorrectly. He hooked the black-line-120 to the neutral connector. Power cord now is properly connected. Line-n-line    red- white- black. Wires coming to power strip on dryer corresponds to wires coming from dryer cord. Red to red- white to white-black to black and green wire is connected to the ground on the dryer frame. Wall outlet is ok. I checked it and so did apartment complex maintenance department. Now, installed new motor and the same thing happened again when i started the dryer. Thermal protector made a loud buzzing noise and i turned it back off before it tripped out. Is the light working on the dryer? The bulb blew out and the socket got burned around the threads and has to be replaced if i can get one today but can check and see if there is power coming to the wires if not. If there is power to it then what else can be the problem? The timer? Maybe? Unfortunately the dryer is not at my house and my computer is at my house so have go there to check it out.

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If the wiring and outlet are correct i would check for shorted timer contacts, should be a chart on the wiring sheet that shows what pins to test

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I've had a few washers and dryers where the timer was so shorted out it would blow the house circuit breaker.

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You should actually measure all those legs with a meter, do not rely on "color to color" meaning it is right - 2 120v circuits and a 240v circuit are required as shown in previous post

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You might check for a short in wiring circuit to bulb. Sounds like you have a short somewhere.

 

I've had a few washers and dryers where the timer was so shorted out it would blow the house circuit breaker.

 

 

If the wiring and outlet are correct i would check for shorted timer contacts, should be a chart on the wiring sheet that shows what pins to test

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Verify voltages with a meter, inside the recepticle and at the terminal block. Then, use the meter and check all the timer contacts as per the tech sheet. You can track down shorts by disconnecting components, then powering up machine to see what circuits/components you can focus on. A detailed visual inspection of the entire wire harness checking for pinched wires, rubbed through insulation, burn marks. You got to just start from the beginning, measure/test everything, and do not trust anything you or anyone else has done prior to now. If it's been worked on this much, something could be hooked up wrong. Trust nothing, test everything.

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Also you keep saying the thermal protector makes a noise?

 

The only noise that I know of that a thermal protector can make is a click when it opens and usually with the dryer running you don't hear it over the other  noises.

 

So, are you sure it's the thermal overload in the motor making the said noise?

 

Can you make a recording of the noise?

 

If the motor won't start but just makes a light to loud buzzing noise when pushing the start button but never turns over then the overload trips that means something is happening when under load and it's not actually the thermal overload making the noise until it clicks and opens.  The buzzing would be the motor trying to start without the full voltage that it needs.

 

You need to connect your meter leads to the terminal block at the power cord input on the neutral and the black, (which should be the 110 volt leg for the motor), with the meter connected you should be reading 110-120 volts then push the start button while watching the meter reading.  If the meter reading drops way down low and doesn't stay at around the 110 volt level at least, then you have a wiring problem in your house at the circuit box, dropped/bad neutral connection most likely.

Edited by Budget Appliance Repair

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check for 120v at the Drum Light Socket

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Well,installed new motor and still a problem. Was sure that was it. The thermal protector still makes the same noise but turned it off before it tripped because i knew what the noise was. So, what else can be the problem? The light did blow out but after in ran a couple times while tripping the thermal switch on the motor. Have checked the heater and it isn't shorted out and the can't really find any shorts. Any help would be appreciated.

I had a downdraft on a cooktop making a horrible noise and tripping breaker once. Turned out it was a new installation and the 110 motor was getting 220v. It had been wired wrong during installation. Point being if it's not a short you are getting 220v to motor and probably light receptacle.

Edited by tpoindexter

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