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Stilltrying3

Maytag SE 1000 will not agitate

42 posts in this topic

Greetings,

 

Important note:

Upper Clamp Nut #13 - Don't spend more than 5 minutes trying to take it off - just cut it off with a cold chisel or grinder or You may damage the upper Tranny post threads if it is stuck on.

 

Final Answer to my issue:  Agitator shaft was frozen to #12 Gear Case assembly ?post #4 Tranny Diagram

 

I have a 25 year old SE1000 Maytag Washer + Dryer Stack.

Several parts have been replaced. Current Problem:

 

** Saturday: The little lady packed the washer with heavy stuff like two sets of flannel sheets, a small quilt type blanket, and other stuff making a very full load

** Washer will not agitate

** It will spin and drain

** With the front off and in the agitate cycle, I can see the pulley move a bit, but no more

** The belts will squeal after a minute or so

** The pulley is relatively easy to turn in the spin "direction"

** But much stiffer in the agitate direction

** I do not think the belts have been replaced in ten or more years

 

Saturday: I played with it for a an hour or so - back and forth to this website looking for fixit hints

and was able to get a couple of loads done with no issues

 

Monday: the little lady loaded it up and it will not agitate

 

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

Still Trying III

 
Edited by Stilltrying3

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Several parts have been replaced.

 

 

Do tell ??

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most recent repair = 

 

Drive Motor

Used for the dryer.

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How about service on the washer ??

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2/2/04 – replaced Dryer Blower Wheel - $14.99 5 hours labor



I don't think I have ever replaced any washer parts



Lid Lock Switch - twice in 25 years

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I am hoping it is as described below:

What is happening here is this, the pulley is not returning to the "down position. The threads are gummy, the pulley is worn in the center and jamming, or the bearing is stuck and needs replaced or re-greased. I usually try cleaning everything up and re-greasing the bearing, shaft, and pulley. If the pulley is too loose or the bearing worn out replace them. It also has to be adjusted properly.

 

** I saw the 200 pound pressure on the pulley and backed off from trying to take that off

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or this one ...

The reason I know about the pulley sticking is because I live in an area where the older people keep their washers forever. I've worked on many older Maytags that were 25 to 30 years old. If the grease gets enough dirt and age on it, it starts to act like glue. Also the pulley is aluminum and does wear down so it can become jamed against the brake. 

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There was a label on the bottom near the pulley that talked about 200 pounds of pressure - what is that ??

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Found it: 200 Pounds  = The brake assemblv contains a spring which is partially compressed and

exerting 200 Ibs. pressure. Use tool to dismantle brake. Because of this

spring, CAUTION MUST BE TAKEN when disassembling the units.

 

now looking for the tool - or can something else do the trick ?

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You Guys and this website are GREAT !

 

I think I read somewhere that I could shoot some oil or grease in the brake without taking it apart.

 

My hope and prayer is that something just needs a little lubrication.

 

Enjoy your day

 

ST3

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If you are going to junk this unit , can I have your lid lock assy........PLEASE.. :yes:

Edited by certified tech group 51

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gotcha - you have it

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Another comment:

 

When I turn the large pulley in the Agitate direction:

** It is very stiff

** The agitator in the tub does not turn

** I cannot turn the agitator by hand from inside the tub

 

Thanks for all your help,

 

ST3

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Most likely problem is a slow upper agitate shaft seal leak and upper agitate shaft is frozen in upper transmission housing.

 

Not a real common problem on these but you do see it from time to time.

 

New transmission or major rebuild if the old style transmission.  If the new orbital transmission it can be rebuilt with transmission still in machine, (unless the upper housing bushings are so bad they can't be cleaned up - then the transmission would still have to be removed).

 

If going to any extent of repairing or replacing the transmission it would be wise to remove the transmission and replace the main hub and stem seal kit and upper tub spin bearing while doing this.

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Willie - 

 

Thanks for the post, I'm trying to find the time to tilt 'her back and check on a few things.

 

Nothing like a Corvette - is it built for the 1/4 mile track ?

 

I had a '70 and pretended I was on a track most of the time.

 

Regards,

 

ST3

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Nothing like a Corvette - is it built for the 1/4 mile track ?

 

I had a '70 and pretended I was on a track most of the time.

 

No, not built for the track but drove it like a madman and got a few tickets, (was only 18 when I got it - one year out of high school - had a three year loan and it caught fire a couple months after it was paid off.  Didn't have full coverage insurance the last year and half because of a drag racing charge.).

 

It was sure fun when I had it - it was my dream car since I was 9 years old.

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Willie - 

 

I don't want to put in writing how many speeding tickets I got ...

but ... a sheriff in GA gave me a ticket for doing donuts in a empty parking lot just after a rain.  A neighborhood kid was riding with him that day an he told me the sheriff said he hated to give me a ticket because those were the prettiest donuts he had ever seen!

 

** Sounds like I need to remove both tubs to pull out  the Tranny

** Do you know of a link to the description of removing the washer tub ?

 

TIA,

 

Wishing I still had my '70 Corvette

 

 BTW - I have the old style, not the orbital transmission

Edited by Stilltrying3

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Retaining Washer - Center

Part Number: PS2191215

 

Any clues on how to get this washer out ??

Answer = Clean up the area around the washer and 

then use reverse psyc - tap down on it with a screwdriver

and it will pop up !

 

so I can check out the 

Agitator Drive Shaft Seal

Part Number: PS2347230

 

gonna work on the above tomorrow after I buy a spanner wrench

Edited by Stilltrying3

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The service manual for that style of washer is here

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BTW This Maytag W/D Stacker unit is 25 years old !

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Only the second best spanner wrench was available locally

 

about an hour banging with a sledge and no movement thus far

 

I cleaned the grooves and sprayed WD 40 at the point of contact

Yikes !

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The brake tool is NLA, did you check the Tub support for a set screw?

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Hi CS...

 

This is the inner tub clamp nut ... the manual I have for the SE1000 says there is not a set screw

 

      post-81527-0-40066700-1359485135_thumb.j

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