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tpoindexter

Kitchen Aid Compactor kucc151Lss0 won't stop running

20 posts in this topic

I don't know if it's because I've spent so much time thinking about it, but I can't figure it out.

Every time you close the drawer it starts cycling. When it reaches the top of the cycle it just sits there jumping until you open it. The drawer safety switch activates it when closed, and shut it off when opened.

The monentary start switch is good.

The top limit directional switch is good.

The unit is the one with a fan.

I don't understand what's happening.

I have tech sheet 9871923 but it's just one I had. Still can't figure out what the flip is happening.

Any suggestions?

Edited by tpoindexter

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Usually indicates the powernuts are worn - these are mounted to the ram and transport it up and down the shafts. When worn, the nuts will begin to skip threads near the top of it's travel and the ram never quite reaches the uppermost position in its travel.

You can sometimes bend the actuator arm on the switch slightly so it makes a more sure contact with the ram

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Directional-Switch/777811/714888?modelNumber=KUCC151LSS0

 

Directional-Switch-777811-00559442.jpg

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That switch at the bottom right front...the one you start it with by lifting the foot opener, is stuck.

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kdog, kurtius,

 

I believe you are both right, and I promise I have diligently checked both. The ram is reaching the top and even bumping. It's like both switches aren't even part of the circuit. The bottom switch isn't even closed and it'll run. Tried manually pushing the top limit and it had no effect, pulled the switch and confirmed it was good. I had a new one had I needed it.

After crying myself to sleep, sucking my thumb, and all that shit, I have awoke in a new world with an alarming thought (this happens to me more often than I'd like to admit).

 

Alarming  thought: wiring has been screwed with!!!!

 

During inspection of drive gears, I removed the bottom, an I remember the back motor cover seemed to have been accessed already. Also, notice the fan wasn't shutting off unless you turned compact off.

 

I believe wiring has been changed in the back and will check.

I screwed with switches soo long I didn't have time to continue troubleshooting and didn't really want any more of this thing right then. I was lost and needed to get to another job.

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I am telling you, focus on that foot pedal switch. although the plunger may work, the contacts inside are welded...

may want to have one before you attempt to remove it as i usually destroy the old one trying to remove the sonofabitch.

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It runs with the wires disconnect from that sonafabeach.

I'm tellinya I fell asleep sucking my beer from a nipple thinking about this piece of ______  ________ ________

I gotta find why how these switches are being bypassed

Edited by tpoindexter

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Start switch is stuck on ON.

New ones have a switch on lower front  #14 on the   5) "Panel & Control Parts "   frame  happened to me. to start it with use part number W10342596 kit , the new switch is reversed from the old one.

Every time you closed door it would run bottom out & come back up & keep running.

Ate my lunch, was not used to this & new kit was missing new switch & lost more time until i figured it out . 

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Start switch is stuck on ON.

New ones have a switch on lower front  #14 on the   5) "Panel & Control Parts "   frame  happened to me. to start it with use part number W10342596 kit , the new switch is reversed from the old one.

Every time you closed door it would run bottom out & come back up & keep running.

Ate my lunch, was not used to this & new kit was missing new switch & lost more time until i figured it out . 

I have that kit and was thinking to put it on, even had the old switch out and tested it. When the old switch tested good, I thought what the hell so I pushed the drawer switch inside an damned thing started to cycle. After it cycled and got to the top it wouldn't stop till I let go of the switch.

I know the high limit switch cause I checked it with meter and also manually tried to stop it but nothing worked.

I don't want to be stubborn cause I am here asking for help but I just thinking I'm screwed the hell up at the moment.

Are you still saying to put this kit on? If you are I will and hope a bright light shines and me and the light pops on to what I'm missing.

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I'm going to fix this just so I'll understand what's happening. Cause everything everyone is telling me makes sense, but, breakdown at the moment as to what the heck is happening.

Gotta read some of the stuff RegUs just sent.

I will update you guys on mental status later .

Edited by tpoindexter

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ok that kick plate lower switch kit has a reversed switch and it releases when activated.

 

If the lower foot switch is always on it will just that.

 

You kick the plate in , it activates the lower switch , then releases. IF not then it will top out & keep running.

 

that's why it only stops when you pull the door open.

 

THEY use it a START switch.

 

I was used to the old KEY switch,so this was weird until it dawned on me.

 

Lower switch is the new start sw.  ,  but the new design had flaws that's why Whirlpool Redesigned it.

Edited by dimitri77565

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The new kit has a spring .  when you activate it returns to off . if it did not it would be like you held start switch on.

check by pushing switch in & once it starts release, then wait to see if it still runs up & not stop.

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It'll be a few days before I can get back to that job. This is one I'll feel stupid about when it's done, but, I will report results no matter how painful.

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This is one I'll feel stupid about when it's done, but, I will report results no matter how painful.

 

 

No, this one that you will learn from and be a better Appliantologist as a result.  These kind of jobs make inexperienced techs into seasoned, battle-hardened appliance repair warriors.   :samurai:

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Ok, here's the results of this repair. Everyone that was saying to put the new kit with activation switch on absolutely correct.

Of course you guys probably already knew that. 

The kit pedal holds the switch in an activates it by releasing the switch, vs, old style which activates it by pushing the switch in.


I should have looked at kit closer, but I got sidetracked when the sonofabeechnut was operating with the switch disconnected.

Thanks for your guidance and patience.

Let me guess, nothing says thank you like Beer!!!

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Let me guess, nothing says thank you like Beer!!!

 

Let me guess, nothing says thank you like Beer MONEY!!!!!

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Let me guess, nothing says thank you like Beer!!!

 

Followup reports are excellent, too.  Domo for letting us know how it turned out!  

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Today I will freely share any info I know, for there are no sweeter words than " I told you so" ;-)

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Today I will freely share any info I know, for there are no sweeter words than " I told you so" ;-)

I know you did Kurtius, and I eventually followed your words without understanding. It was immediately obvious you were right when I started looking at how the switch pedal worked. Thank you.

 

Followup reports are excellent, too.  Domo for letting us know how it turned out!  

I figure if you guys are willing to help, the least I can do is a followup with what I learned.

And, a little beer every once and awhile!

Plus, I know it might help someone else at some point.

Thanks for having such a great site I can sharpen up at with some real pros.

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Just yankin yer chain Poindexter...I can't even claim that gem...it is my fav of the sammies "Daily appliance repair affermations" that I repeat to myself to say sane...way to be tenacious with that bi-otch

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