Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Begin your journey to appliance repair mastery...

Click here to check out our structured, online appliance repair training courses for rookies and experienced techs.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Stay connected with us...

Samurai on Facebook - become a fan today! Sign up for our free newsletter and keep up with all things Appliantology. Subscribe to our YouTube channel for lots of appliance repair tips and help! Follow the Samurai on Twitter and get timely morsels of Appliantological Wisdom! Subscribe to our MST Radio podcast to learn secrets of the trade.
Sunlight Appliance

Samsung Refrigerator RB2155SH XAA shuts down every 6 hours

8 posts in this topic

Hello everyone,

 

My client's Samsung fridge (FF compartment top, Freezer bottom) shuts down every "6 hours" and will not power back up until he unplugs it from the wall and plugs it back in. Then he's good for another 6 hours. When the unit turns off the displayed temperatures rise.

 

I went over yesterday and originally diagnosed an intermittent relay/overload kit, because, when I powered down the unit and powered it back up (after waiting 30 seconds) the compressor fluttered and shut off. Disassembling and reassembling the relay/overload kit seemed to fix that since I reseated all the connections. But, today my client calls back with the same issue.

 

While I was there yesterday I checked for error codes and found none and also manually ran both defrost modes since I thought it possible that when the compressor powers down for defrost it may not be powering back up when defrost terminates.

 

I also noticed the fan in the FF compartment is pulsing, starts and stops, starts and stops. However, the fan in the freezer compartment runs very strong. Is the pulsing FF fan related to this bigger problem, or is it a separate issue?

 

I have my clients on standby while I figure out my next move.

 

Anyone out there seen this before? Any ideas?

 

:thanks:

Edited by Sunlight Appliance

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

I can not speak from personal experience on this box because I have none.

After reading your post,I did access the Service manual and find some potential issues.

The refrigerator can go into a defrost mode on a 6 hour interval.

If the compressor fails to come back on,suspect the fresh food temp sensor and or the freezer temp sensor.

One or both can be faulty.

The 3 fan motors may not run all the time either.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for this response. These manuals are sometimes hard for me to understand. So, basically, the sensors you mention are supposed to sense a rise in temperature due to the compressor being off during defrost and the heat output from the elements?

 

In this particular case, the senors may not be communicating a high enough temperature to the motherboard?

 

Thank you.

 

Any other comments out there?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree. The manual says to check temp sensors when not coming out of defrost.  Test/change sensors first. If that doesn't work, you may have a board problem

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is Samsung service tip with part #'s for this unit hope it makes it easier

 

 

Service Tip (Local)

  Close  

Refrigerator Stops Running Until Unplugged Category Home Appliances > Refrigerator > Bottom Freezer Model Code RB1844SL/XAA / RB1844SW/XAA / RB1855SL/XAA / RB1855SW/XAA / RB1855VQ/XAA / RB1944SL/XAA / RB1955SH/XAA / RB1955SW/XAA / RB1955VQ/XAA / RB2044SL/XAA / RB2044SW/XAA / RB2055BB/XAA / RB2055SL/XAA / RB2055SW/XAA / RB2155SH/XAA / RB2155SW/XAA Added by STEVEP Registered date 06.01.2008 Description

 

 Symptom: Refrigerator stops running and cooling daily and will not run unless unit is unplugged and plugged back in.

Models Effected:RB units with  4 letter model numbers such as RB2055 / RB1944 / RB1844  etc .......

Possible Cause and Diagnostic Procedure.

  • Check Both Defrost Circuits for Open Thermal Fuse.
  • Access Main PCB in compressor compartment and locate CN70 connector.
  • For Refrigerator compartment check for an open circuit by taking a resistance reading between WHITE and GREY / For Freezer side check between BROWN and GREY.
  • If open Thermal Fuse is identified it is recommended to replace both compartment Thermal Fuses with a Bi-Metal  as well as both Defrost Sensors.  
  • Bi-Metal # DA47-10160H
  • Sensor #DA32-00006W               

NOTE:

 If one of the thermal fuses fail  the unit will not come out of defrost and will only restart when unplugged. Once unit is powered back up the board defaults to factory settings. The unit runs and will go into defrost after 4hrs of compressor run time and never come out until unit is powered down and back up again. Then 4 hours later the same thing and so on.......

Attached Files     Satisfaction Index

sat_tit_left.gif How would you rate the quality of this contents? sat_tit_right.gif     My Satisfaction  ic_moderate.gif
 
    Confirm   Average  ic_good.gif
 
   

btenpin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fantastic info, bten!  Mucho domos for posting that!   :thumbsup:  :rocker:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent info indeed but only Samsung could make a fridge that will not come out of defrost due to a bad thermal fuse. For some unknown reason, I thought thermal fuses stopped fridges from going into defrost. Silly me.

Edited by DurhamAppliance

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So, to completely understand the bulletin graciously shared:

 

When an OPEN thermal fuse is found, replace BOTH fuses not with new thermal fuses but wire in DA47-10160H bimetals? And further replace BOTH defrost sensors regardless which one is actually damaged?

 

Thanks in advance,

Red

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites