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Patricio

Whirlpool Washer WTW58ESVW1

8 posts in this topic

I looked at washer today that will only spin.    Electrical diagrams sometimes are hard for me to understand.  I am using Wi0248227  rev. C

What I know:

1) it spins so power to unit is good,

2) it spins so ld switch is good,

3) power (122v) enters timer & leves timer..motor runs spin cycle,

4) power (122v)V wire enters ATC/LS control switch

5) I have 121v at 10 of 11 pins coming out of ATC,  the 11th pin I take is a neutral

 

Now I am lost.   Continuity at other 2 selection sensor knobs.  4 pins only 1 set of pins wired for continous path?

ATC sensor .. what & where is that .. is it on the inlet line below the water valves (45 ohmes)?

Flow control  What is its pupose, obviously located below possible ATC sensor on water inlet line to tub.

 

The only other mention of water not filling but tub will spin posts for this model washer suggests replacing (load sensing) temperature switch.  How do I make sure I know this is problem to correct by diagnose/testing part.  Mucho Gracious hombres for any & all help.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

... suggests replacing (load sensing) temperature switch. 

... How do I make sure I know this is problem to correct by diagnose/testing part.

have been problematic

When it shoulld be Agitating, check for 0v (good) across Violet (L1) to Blue/Orange (Relay) on Load Sense Switch

 

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1549115

 

Temperature-switch-W10248240-01093342.jp

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Did check that, don't remember if I had it in agitate or not, had low (<5v) voltage.  Will be stopping by on Wednesday, would like to have solution & part on hand.  Fortunate that residence is less than 2 miles from my house.

 

Does the relay control the fill valves also, I see it going back to the timer.  Other wires, T-R & Y-R (according to schematic) go to fill valves.   What does the flow meter do?  Regulate how much it fills. 

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Yep that part made her run again.

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OK my model is a wtw57esvh1, same tech sheet, W10248227 C, I would like more info on how to trouble shoot this thing for speed of work. Ie functions block, terminal out puts- they put on the print a switch but no name p-1, p-2.

I was able to locate them by wire color.

This washer would do like the one above spin but would not fill. I noticed the water sensor on inlet, Is that a temp sensor? or does it act as a back up sensor to the flow meter.

I thought at first I had a bad inlet, or plugged inlet, the solonoid would fire, but no water, then some water came out and it shut off.

I then realized this is suppose to be a all in one device and replaced the pressure switch, so I filled the tub with water to see if I could get unit to go into agitate. No go on that.

Now this made me think shorted or grounded electronics inside of a box, that I have no idea about what is going on in, but if its bad, then there is probally a voltage drop, and solonoids, like the inlet valve don't operate under voltage drops well.

So I gets my test cord out and applied full 120 vac to inlet sol. Works like a champ, not plugged port, not stuck. So I know its good.

Don't have a clue what voltage is being used at flow meter termnial 9 and 10 ???????

I figured I need the whole switch ATC unit.

Now what is the clyde tester used for????

Have they got some tech sheet or service data help on this printed for trouble shooting

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LS. In my old work world meant limit switch, in this world it's load sensor, previously called pressure switch ???

J3 on the ATC when it senses full (tub water level) outputs a signal to sw 38 on timer.

This is where the solid state junk has taken over the old reliable mechanical poles. Well use to be reliable untill someone figured out how to use thinner and cheaper material even on them. LOL

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  P-1 is the extra rinse switch, P-2 is the fabric softener switch. The sensor in the inlet valve is a thermistor used by the temp controller in the load sense switch to monitor the incoming water temperature. Thermistor is a resistor whose value changes based on temperature. The load sense switch has a microcomputer on it's circuit board. It is factory programmable via the the accessory jack that is normally not connected to anything. Clyde tester is a device used at the factory (Clyde Ohio) for testing. The flow meter is a hall effect device that allows accurate measurement of amount of incoming water. Circuit board has a power supply to provide 5v dc for microcomputer operation and for flow meter. Load sense switch has a pressure transducer, not a pressure switch as in non load sense models. The transducer very accurately measures water level via the pressure hose. These switches are known to fail due to overheating of the circuit board. Typical symptoms are filling and agitating at the same time, not filling at all and adding water at the end of the spin cycle. Standard troubleshooting technique is to remove pressure hose, blow into it to make sure it's clear and reconnect. If connection seems loose, cut as little as possible from end of hose and reconnect so that the connection is tight. This very often fixes the problem. If not, replace the switch. It is a high failure item.

 

Eric

Edited by fairbank56

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pinit.png
Helpful Tip:

If switch fails make sure drain hose is up at least 42 inches from the finished floor and is discharging into an open stand pipe or laundry tub to prevent water from siphoning that can damaging switch

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