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Patricio

Roper dryers RED4440WQ1 & RED4440?(421)

13 posts in this topic

Looked at 2 simular driers  dead within 2 weeks only year & half old both bought at the same Lowes about the same time.  First dryer I concluded that it was timer failure, can't remember why I concluded that, but customer opted to buy another new dryer than repair. 

 

2nd dryer today dead also, don't have correct model number, customer did not give it correctly & I did not check when on call.

Findings:  Terminal block 244v across L1 & L2 .   All thermal devices have continuity, all test 122v terminal ends to ground with timer in heat cycles.  Start switch has continuity when pressed, open when not.  I am leaning towards timer failure.

 

Have 122V at timer terminal lead 'C' BK wire to neutral terminal.  121v at terminal 'B' Lightblue wire to neutral trminal.  Lose most voltage at B terminal when start switch is pushed.   Am I on the right tract?   Door switch has continuity.  Thought I read somewhere where these timers have a quirck to them but I can't find where I read that. 

 

Did not jump black to Lt blue wire.  Can't believe motors are bad

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More than likely it's a timer problem.  We really didn't have these timer issues until they started using 240 volt timers.

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That is what I am thinking.  Timer is spinning in the window though,   Why do I have such a voltage drop?  Also it seemed to me when I was checking B terminal to ground & rotating timer knob, I had loss of voltage.

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... I am leaning towards timer failure.

Have 122V at timer terminal lead 'C' BK wire to neutral terminal. 

121v at terminal 'B' Lightblue wire to neutral trminal. 

Lose most voltage at B terminal when start switch is pushed.  

Am I on the right tract? 

yes, bad Contacts inside Timer

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Patricio, on 21 Feb 2013 - 21:27, said:snapback.png

... I am leaning towards timer failure.


Have 122V at timer terminal lead 'C' BK wire to neutral terminal. 


121v at terminal 'B' Lightblue wire to neutral trminal. 


Lose most voltage at B terminal when start switch is pushed.  


Am I on the right tract? 

 

yes, bad Contacts inside Timer

 

gallery_70880_67_8540.gif

Edited by tpoindexter

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I wouldn't be so quick to say a bad timer yet.

 

Put your meter probes across the terminal block where power cord is attached to dryer, first across L1-Blk & Neutral and push/hold start button, then do the same for L2-Red & Neutral.   The L1-blk side should be the 110 volt leg for the motor and the main one you will be concerned with.   If you see the same kind of voltage drop as you did when checking the timer you need to be checking the neutral and ground connections in the breaker box, (Bad neutral or neutral dropped problem).

 

That's what it sounds more like to me then a bad timer.

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OR

voltage between Timer 'B' and 'C' should stay at 0v AC when Start Button is pressed

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The reason I think timer is that two identicle dryers, same problem same diagnoses, bought at same Lowes about same time, breaks down at same time.  whats the chances that 2 different houses in neighbor hoods miles apart have faulty breakers.  I will check cannot obtain a timer until Monday anyway.   Any other suggestions.  Wish I knew a sure fire way to test timer instead of process of elimination. 

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... 122V at timer terminal lead 'C' BK wire to neutral terminal.

... 121v at terminal 'B' Lightblue wire to neutral trminal.

... Lose most voltage at B terminal when start switch is pushed.

.

... Wish I knew a sure fire way to test timer instead of process of elimination.

.

voltage between Timer 'B' and 'C' should stay at 0v AC when Start Button is pressed

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Also check the nuts on the terminal block where the power cord attaches to it.  Delivery/Install guys like to leave them loose cause they are lazy and in a rush to deliver and install more appliances and alot of them are afraid they will crack the terminal block if they tighten the nuts too tight.  When you get a loose power cord connection and 240 volts is involved, you get arcing and eventually a burnt terminal block and burnt power cord connectors. 

 

Also check the voltage AT the wall outlet and make sure you are getting at least 220 volts.

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I have replaced a few of these timers, including one today. the plastic gear will break. if you take the timer apart you will see a small piece of plastic (arrow) and bottom light tan gear loose.

http--,,--//timer_zpsf4e88405.jpg

Edited by bayouboy

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Replaced timer on dryer today. Works fine now.   Took timer apart.  Points in excellant condition.  Plastic ring disengaged from timer dial mechanism.  Great call bayouboy.   These roper models I now will go 1st to the timer before doing the thermostats & heater assemblies (will still check these as part of the diagnoses.

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Remind your customers only to turn the timer dial clockwise.  Turning the timer dial counterclockwise ruins the timers.

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