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wildcattle

Wolf R364C one ignitor won't light

14 posts in this topic

One of my burners on the rangetop does not spark or barely sparks. The metal collars that fit over the ceramic cylinders disintegrated years ago. I spoke to local tech who said the collars cause more problems than help and the other 3 give nice blue spark and quick clicks as they should. The ignitors are all clean, I rubbed them all down with steel wool. Should I get the steel collars, replace the individual ignitor?

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Wolf is a rare breed but I used to work for a dealer / servicer so I did a little work on the dual fuels.

 

The first check on any weak spark issue is to find a way to peek in under the hood without taking it off. You want to get an eyeball on that wire while it's in the nice, dark cavity under the range top to see if you can see a little flash of light that shouldn't be there. If it is then part of that spark is shorting through the insulation to some part of the cabinet. One easy way to test if that's the issue is to get ahold of that wire and move it around some and then try again 2 or 3 times.

 

Serious DANGER: DO NOT touch it while it's sparking, EVER.

 

If you've ever been bitten because you grabbed a spark plug wire that had a pinhole in the insulation, you understand. If you have not had this very nasty experience then, believe me, you don't want to understand.

 

If it's flashing then get a new wire. You'll probably have to order one, this isn't the kind of thing you can splice or tape. The voltage is way too high and the spark will blow right through tape since most any tape you get will only be rated to insulate 600V at most. No, wrapping it won't work. You're dealing with well over 50,000 volts here.

 

If you see no flashing, then we move on...

 

If the collar isn't there then the electrode may not be sitting at the right angle, they usually need to be straight up. Any tilt at all is going to change the distance by several hundredths and that can make all the difference.

 

If it's not a wire issue then I'd start by replacing that collar and the electrode both but I'd also be ready to replace the burner base or cap that the spark jumps to as well. If you want to be sure to get it done on one trip, and thereby not look foolish in front of the customer because your first attempt didn't work, then I'd suggest doing the collar, electrode and burner base or cap all in one go.

Edited by ScottsApplianceRepar

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swap the "bad" Ignitor output Terminal on the Spark Module to a "good" Terminal

Check to see which Ignitor is now "bad"

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Thanks for the feedback--I'll check out the wiring and then swap out ignitor terminals.

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 I went to switch terminals on the spark modules. I wiggled the questionable spark module and the ceramic cylinder split in two. The wire inside was rusted and corroded. (This is a 1996 model). Closer examination on the underside of the burner showed worse corrosion on the spark module terminal. I cleared out the entire ceramic spark module so all that was left was the bare wire from the ignitor. I held the wire up to the burner cap, pressed the burner handle in and got perfect constant blue sparks.

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... I went to switch terminals on the spark modules.

... I wiggled the questionable spark module and the ceramic cylinder split in two.

The Spark Ignitors are fragile ..

you should have switched the wires on the actual Spark Module (box)

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Yes, I took spark module to mean the whole ceramic spark ignitor and should have asked for clarification. Given that now there good spark at the open wire where I removed the ignitor, can we assume the spark module box is not the problem? And if so I need to install a new ignitor?

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.. can we assume the spark module box is not the problem?

... And if so I need to install a new ignitor?

yes

yes

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I have a new ignitor which came with a spring, clip and five wires.  Can you help me install it correctly? Thanks.

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part number ?

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looks like maybe all (5) replacement wires

and (1) Spark Ignitor

 

814883.JPG

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Any further thoughts on the install?

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