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    • 30 March 2024 02:00 PM Until 03:00 PM
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      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in this workshop on all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This workshop is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      If you have a specific appliance problem you'd like us to talk about, post it here! We need a problem statement and a PDF of the tech sheet or schematic so we can all see it on screen share. If you have a PDF that isn't already in the File library here at Appliantology, send it to us by attaching it to the contact form. 
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      Where: Online via Zoom
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Whirlpool Washer sadness


Hoser

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As the lunching hour will be upon us shortly, I will test the lid switch as I eat lunch.  However, I did just replace the lid switch about 2 months ago or something.  The old one had broken (the plastic lever thingy).

I will check it anyways and leave an update after lunch.

BUT unless it was a faulty switch from factory, I don't think that is the problem.  So continue thinking...

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OK.

So I have one of those newfangled digital type meters so no fun little needle to watch jumping around.

But here are the results of my test:

Both touching air = 1

Touching each other 0.4 or 0.5.

Touching the lid switch 0.4 or 0.5.

So I assume it is good.

I had one other revelation.  When it is pumping out & spinning, the lid switch needs to be closed it seems...  However, it never stops pumping out, it just never spins.

After I tested the switch, I jiggled all the wires, and ran a load through again.

It did the whole wash thing.  Did the pump out thing (drum locked).  The machine stopped for 2-3 seconds.  Drum "jumped", pump started again.  I felt the drum, and it was loose (able to spin).  I focused my matter moving eyes on it to try to make it start spinning.  After many minutes, it slowly started to turn.  After it turned for a minute or so - it was just starting to build up a bit of speed, the cycle ended, and it started filling with rinse water again.

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Ok, now we're getting to your problem. Deffinitely not the lid switch or it wouldn't even pump the water out.

You said you noticed the 2-3 second pause then clunk and then started again, so your timer is pausing to release the transmission from neutral drain mode.

So now we are down to one of three problems it could be.

1) stripped out drive block which is pretty comman

But you have already replaced this, have you rechecked and made sure it didn't stip out again, maybe you didn't get it tight enough?

2) something, (a piece or clothing), stuck between spin

basket and outer tub.

Probably not this since you did just take the basket out to replace the drive block.

3) or a bad clutch.

Could have worn out the clutch from the old bad drive block.

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  • 2 weeks later...

so.

Since we were running out of cloths, and no one seemed to want to tell me how to diagnose a "bad clutch", I took the washer into a repair shop.

They said the clutch didn't look too bad, but after my description of the issues the washer was having & some in shop testing, they decided to try changing the clutch.

That seems to have worked.

So - I ended up paying someone else to do the job... :(

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