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Konanthebarb

KitchenAid Counter-depth Refrigerator

12 posts in this topic

I going out on this job and wanted to get a heads up on what I'm dealing with. The customer says that the refrigerator is slowly gettin warm on and off. Sometimes getting  warmer than usual.  He hears a a slight buzz or click once or twice a day. This one doesn't have a relay/o/L dingy but an inverter. Pricey too!! I've heard of some people changing out the electronic controller in the back and having to also replace the inverter. Now do I need both parts $$ and be prepared for some trash talking or will just the inverter do the trick. Thoughts?

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Check the main board for burn marks front and back. Sometimes pcb and inverter can be bad. Not that often. Did they have any power failures lately? There are 2 plugs going to the inverter. The bigger of the 2 should read 120vac and the other 3 to 6vdc. If you don't have those voltages pcb is bad but you can't test the inverter until that pcb is replaced if bad. If you get the correct voltages, then you have a bad inverter. Ohm out compressor. All 3 points should have the same ohm readings. It is like a 3 phase motor.

Edited by BryanS

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I agree, correct voltage into the inverter and the inverter is bad. But you have to make sure the fridge is in cooling mode  ie the compressor should be running. If 3 to 6 vdc is not present at the inverter  red/white and red wires, check p7-3 and p7-8 on the main control board for 3 to 6 vdc (we are basically making sure there is no wiring problem between board and inverter). If voltage present, check compressor pins.  you should get 9-10 ohms on each reading.  Also check pins to ground. However, these 3 phase compressors rarely fail and never use a 3 in 1 or introduce 120 v directly to this compressor.

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I would also look for other issues. In my experience it has been rare that an inverter was intermitant. Usually they are just not working and the symptom is a completely warm unit. Probably worth checking first, but don't get locked into it.

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An intermittent board, however, is not uncommon. A clicking sound in a non ptc fridge suggests a board problem. But also check condenser fan for proper operation

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... Ksc25INWH0

KscS25INWH0x ?

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ahh, missing another "0" at the end of model no., good catch. Yes, we've had power failures 2-3 times within the last 3-months. Kept me busy. Ok, I think I got it. Is this the controller that I've been hearing that is "nla" or is it only the built in ones. This is too good to be true, wonderful site and place to be!

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Some of the counter depths also have the main Pcb as nla. They can be rebuilt. I know we send them off to corecentricsolutions.com. I never get the calls back to install them, so I don't know how long it takes.

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Going by the model number you listed, it appears that board is nla.

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Applianceparts365.com says they have limited quantities of w10219463. You are missing a number at the end of your model # to be sure that is the same board.

Edited by DurhamAppliance
Corrected part no...added the "6"

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Yes, just checked, you're right the board is not avail. No dcv going to inverter. I'm going with the pcb, although no burnt marks found on it. I'm gonna try corecentrics since I've heard some people using them with good results and it's cheaper. Amazing talent here !

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Corecentric is good. Also make sure to test voltage at the board to eliminate wiring issues between board and inverter.

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