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dryerman45

KITCHENAID

10 posts in this topic

Dear Master,

I have a Kitchenaid r/f.Model # KSRP25F.It stopped making ice.When I looked at the icemaker the harvest rake was up and pointing towards the freezer door.There was hard ice in the tray of icemaker.I know this has the IR SENSOR CIRCUIT AND WANTED TO KNOW HOW TO TOUBLESHOOT.

The icemaker sits sideways in this unit as you know.Just wanted to let you know in relation to the icemaker harvest rake.

Sincerely

SAMANERA

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

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Is the emitter blinking? And when you close the flap (after moving your arm out of the way) does the light become steady? If so, more than likely your ir system is ok. If the ir system appears ok, Unplug the fridge, Jump the icemaker to start harvesting. Hold or tape down ir system flapper, plug fridge back in. If the icemaker begins to harvest, then you either have a bad icemaker thermostat (jumping the icemaker bypasses thermostat) or your ice bucket isn't seated properly thus interfering with the ir beam.

And i was gonna post The Samurai's great video but he's fast... real fast. lol

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And i was gonna post The Samurai's great video but he's fast... real fast. lol

 

 

Only two days from the date-of-the-original-post fast!  

 

6e3b534ad4-1.jpg

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OK,

Well I closed the IR flapper and the red led did not stop blinking.So Iam going to order emmitter and receiver control pcb.

Yes my hand and anything elese was out of the way of the beam.

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What was the blinking sequence? If it's rapid blinking and faster than the 2 blinks and pause pattern, it may signify the ice maker is in harvest mode.

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It was blinking two times then pause two times then pause.I understand when you close the emmitter flapper the led should remain on and it doesnt.

It was not blinking faster than the 2 blink pause pattern in the video.Its exactly the same unit I think.The only difference is that theri

e is ice cubes formed in the mold and the harvest stripper is at the 2 oclock position if you were looking at it from the front where the control module is...I hope this fixes the problem.Oh yes the customer said that it was making ice intermittently before it quit all together

SAMANERA

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Does sound like a bad Emitter-Receiver board.  But I would verify by doing The test the Brother Kurtius prescribed in post that Brother Vee8power linked to, reprinted here for your viewing pleasure:

 

 

1. Remove receiver board (right side) and insert wire into plug in black/black-white wire locations . This effectively bypasses the optics for test purposes. if you have no black/blk-white wires in the plug don’t panic, just chose the two wires beside the blank hole, not on the end.
2. test for voltage at the 4 wire harness plug, black to white and black to green…should have 120vac in both places. if not, inline fuse is open or wire is broken or separated in the liner. very bad and prolly not repairable (the broken wire not the fuse).
3. if voltage is present, hookup i/m and test at the points on the motor module head previously noted L and N…should have 120vac.
4. if voltage is present, install jumper between test points T and H…this should start the icemaker on a rotation if all the above outlined conditions are true. if it doesn’t, the motor on the module is bad. if it does start, reinstall i/m and wait till it fills and parks. remove jumpers and reinstall optics receiver. icemaker should work…if not, we have proven the icemaker assembly is good and the optics must be at fault, regardless of whether the light flashes are checking good or not.

 

If the board checks bad by this method, it's slam-dunk dead.  
 
 
Ice-Level-Control-Board-4389102-01336902

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HI Samurai,

I shut breaker off for refridgerator,removed old sensor boards and installed new ones.

Flipped breaker back on and Icemaker is now working well.It stripped the ice out and refilled.Customer very happy

Thank you very much

SAMANERA

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