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Cityboysrus

WTW4950XW2 Vertical Module Washer/Won't Fill

17 posts in this topic

Ok here we go!!!!! No Tech Sheet :rocker: Washer Lid Locks, and tub sounds as if it's turning, then there

 

is a humming noise and lid unlocks. I applied 120 to both inlet valves and they work.Is there anything

 

 

other than a bad control board for this situation. No water enters at all.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Is there water supplied to the valve? Is the valve plugged?

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I bypassed the control board and sent 120 to both valves. They are good (water comes in). I'm headed back this morning with Diag Sheet To Kick Some :rocketwhore:

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What a KaKa washer!  parts are so expensive 1in 3 opts for repairs.  Board broke cust forced lid open did not tell me, after I installed New Lid switch found out needed board.

Cust would not go for it. pulled part out left with a service call only.  This is getting to be too common lately.

Adaptive defrost for old refrig. 4388932 early one for $150.00 are they crazy, maybe they will make money now but they have a bleak future. American or not I stopped recommending them.  Does any one remember "Service Matters" they forgot their own Motto.

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  Bad shift actuator. There is an rpm sensor on the actuator that fails, gives same symptoms you are having. Shift actuator is a very high failure item on these washers, as are loose connections and broken wires. Check all connections (unplug/replug) and look for broken wires at harness strain relief clamps. If no joy, replace shift actuator.

 

Eric

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  Bad shift actuator. There is an rpm sensor on the actuator that fails, gives same symptoms you are having. Shift actuator is a very high failure item on these washers, as are loose connections and broken wires. Check all connections (unplug/replug) and look for broken wires at harness strain relief clamps. If no joy, replace shift actuator.

 

Eric

We learned this one the hard way, multiple returns to a customer, changing lid switch, control board, and just happen to have a shift actuator in the van from the a different machine we scrapped earlier in the week.  Installed and no complain since.

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I apologize fellas for not updating status earlier (been busy). Here's the deal I went back the next morning got the washer out of the pan :tongue: used a 13mm to tighten up the bolt behind the housing on the main pulley, Recalibrated the washer and collected my money.

 

Lesson learned on this type of washer I know now it has to sense the load first before water comes in. That's what threw me off. It can't sense without the tub making it's revolutions, the loose pulley was preventing that.

 

Thanks for the feedback fellas!!!!! :rocker:

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Domo for letting us know whatcha found!  This is sure to help others coming along later.   :yes:  :samurai:

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putting unit in diagnostic mode would have shown you a error code, most likely motor unable to reach target rpm

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Another thing customers have complained about is when the washer is set on cold water only, hot water enters the machine in short bursts.  Since both of the machines I encountered were under the first year warranty I replaced the electronic control, the water temperature switch and the water valve assembly.  My guess is that the thermistors in the water valve go bad after awhile. I refuse to waste time diagnosing these sorry ass washers under warranty.

 

I hope Whirlpool will be sorry they ever made these washers and ditched their dependable direct drive top loading washers, especially after they see warranty claims for complete wiring harnesses, gearcases, electronic controls, etc.

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  That loose nut is a known problem and common occurrence with these washers. They recommend applying threadlocker when re-tightening the nut.

 

Eric

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Another thing customers have complained about is when the washer is set on cold water only, hot water enters the machine in short bursts.  Since both of the machines I encountered were under the first year warranty I replaced the electronic control, the water temperature switch and the water valve assembly.  My guess is that the thermistors in the water valve go bad after awhile. I refuse to waste time diagnosing these sorry ass washers under warranty.

 

I hope Whirlpool will be sorry they ever made these washers and ditched their dependable direct drive top loading washers, especially after they see warranty claims for complete wiring harnesses, gearcases, electronic controls, etc.

washer is doing exactly what it is supposed too.  unless the washer has a "tap cold setting" it will add hot water to maintain 60 degrees or somthing near that

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washer is doing exactly what it is supposed too.  unless the washer has a "tap cold setting" it will add hot water to maintain 60 degrees or somthing near that

Try telling a customer that, especially when  they start with the most dreaded saying "IT NEVER DID THAT BEFORE!"

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I find it happens in the winter more often because the incoming water is much colder requiring hot to compensate.  i often times run into a customer complaint of cycle just stops and find that the hot water spigot is off or there isnt even hot water hooked up.  Always gives you a LF code

Edited by sh2sh2

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  Tell them to RTFM. It's explained right in there about the washer adding some hot water in the cold setting. If the washer has the tap cold setting, it explains that as well. I know, nobody reads the manual. There were so many complaints about no water entering the tub when people hit the start button that they changed the programming on later models to make it add water for 7 seconds when the start button is first hit to fool them.

 

Eric

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I also notice people tend to procrastinate on getting their appliances repaired right before the warranty is going to expire.  Drives me nuts when people make up stuff and say "It just started doing this, it never did this before."  It's enough to make you want to  bang you head against a wall.

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owuuuu,ow,ow,owuuuu...

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