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Trane Compressor Fan Not Spinning


bpweems

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I've got a Trane 2TWR1030A1000AB Heat Pump whose Compressor fan has ceased to spin today. The fan spins freely by hand both directions. When the thermostat is set to Cool, the Compressor Motor Contactor energizes, the fan attempts to move (about 1/8" rotation). When the thermostat is set to Off, the Motor Contactor deenergizes. The fan motor housing is also warm (after sitting without power all night I noticed the compressor is warm...is this Normal?). I found the schematics for the unit and after following all the various colored wires from the Compressor Motor Contactor, I can find NO Start Kit with an associated Start Capacitor, however, the parts list for the fan motor (MOT11051) seems to indicate a capacitor is integral to the motor? Is this possible or could the problem be the Run Capacitor? Thanks.

Edited by bpweems
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Are the contactor points burned?

All contactor wiring in good condition?

Is the compressor running?

With the system set to run,can you use a long screwdriver to spin the fan blade?
Is the fan motor capacitor good? Bulged on top?



220 volts in and out on the contactor?

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Most units use a "Dual Capacitor" however you say the motor is warm and fan blade seems to bind indicating the motor is at fault

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... The fan spins freely by hand both directions.

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Look at the capacitor. The top of the cap should apear flat except for the connectors. The connectors should also be level and square with each other. If the top of the capacitor is domed like a frozen can of soda, the cap has failed, this will prevent the motors from starting g and they will hum and get hot. Replacement of the cap involves matching the numbers before the MFD and match or exceed the VAC rating. For example 35/5MFD @ 370VAC. The Voltage rating may be exceeded 440VAC in place of a 370VAC, but the MFD (micro Farads) MUST MATCH EXACTLY. The cap will have 3 terminal groups marked as: H ( or Herm/ Hermetically sealed compressor), F (fan), and C (common). The compressor start winding goes to H, the fan start winding to F, and the C goes to L2 ( the opposite leg from the L1 which is feeding both of the motors).

Since you say you have a hard start kit installed in this condensor, make sure you are looking at the right capacitor. The plastic one is the hard start 75-188MFD is the normal for these) and the metal can one is the start/run cap. Take a photo of the dome of the cap to share, if you have a DVM that has capacitor test on it(. -)I- symbol) then AFTER YOU DISCONNECT POWER AND VERIFY IT IS DISCONNECTED WITH A METER, disconnect the wired from the H then meter from H to C and see if the number is close to the rating. If off by more than 10% It is bad. If you real nothing at all, it is bad. Order replacement and install.

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what seer is this unit? if it's a 16 or above it will have an ecm motor. The motor is wired directly from power and low voltage controls it. some motors the board is in the motor and some it's seperate. It is an expensive motor. hope it's under warranty.

Stefan

Ahh-Cool A/c

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Sorry I just finished completely reading your post. you definately have an ecm motor.

you need to shut off the breaker to the condenser before you burn up the compressor.

just some advice

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Sorry I just finished completely reading your post. you definately have an ecm motor.

you need to shut off the breaker to the condenser before you burn up the compressor.

just some advice

GOOD CATCH!
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Trane Condenser Motor MOT11051
1/4 HP
200/230V
60Hz
Single Phase
1075 RPM
CCW
48 Frame
Sleeve Bearing
Requires 5mfd 370V Capacitor

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Well guess what?  The beauty of having two units...the run capacitor is bad as confirmed by swapping the cap from my Lennox unit to the Trane.

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however, the parts list for the fan motor (MOT11051) seems to indicate a capacitor is integral to the motor? Is this possible or could the problem be the Run Capacitor? Thanks.

sorry, I didn't look it up I was just going off this statement

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