Learn how to be your own tech line...

Click here to check out our structured, online appliance repair training courses for rookies and experienced techs.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Stay connected with us...

Samurai on Facebook - become a fan today! Sign up for our free newsletter and keep up with all things Appliantology. Subscribe to our YouTube channel for lots of appliance repair tips and help! Follow the Samurai on Twitter and get timely morsels of Appliantological Wisdom! Subscribe to our MST Radio podcast to learn secrets of the trade.
  • Announcements

ApplianceDoctor

Heat Pump Not Cooling

Recommended Posts

ApplianceDoctor   
ApplianceDoctor

I have a customer called and said that their heat pump was not cooling. When I arrived I confirmed that there was a problem and unit was not cooling. I found everything was running even the compressor was running. I connected gauges to unit and found while compressor was running the high and low side pressures were equalized. This sounds to me like a bad or inefficient compressor. Is there any other thing or component could be bad in this unit that would cause the high and low pressure to be equalized while the compressor is running? Can anyone help me with this?

 

Thank You

 

ApplianceDoctor

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

jumptrout   
jumptrout

What refrigerant is in system?

What are the pressures?
What are LRA draw? (locked rotor)

What is LRA rating?
What are running amp draw?

What is running amp rating?

Is reversing valve actuating or stuck mid range?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ApplianceDoctor   
ApplianceDoctor

Refrigerant is R-22

Low side pressure 125 psig

High side pressure 125 or 130

LRA rating on compressor 48 amps

Unit is actually drawing while running 3.7 amps

Info. on label on unit is wore off could not see RLA

I can hear reversing valve clicking and energizing but

cant hear sound of gas switch.

Pressures are equalized or almost equalized.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ahh-cool   
ahh-cool

I don't work on a lot of a/c heat pumps, no heat in south florida, but it sounds like your reversing valve is stuck mid position. try hitting it with the back of a screwdriver and try putting on the heat see if it moves and what are the pressures in heat?

Ahh-Cool A/C

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jumptrout   
jumptrout

Running amps is too low.

Remove the compressor relay cover and check for a broken wire on compressor.

Verify the compressor capacitor is good.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ahh-cool   
ahh-cool

what size unit? 3.7 amps is probably ok with no load.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ApplianceDoctor   
ApplianceDoctor

How would the compressor be running with a broken wire? Even if it had a bad capacitor, would the compressor still run as it is doing? I have run unit in heat and cool position and pressures are still equalized. Would a reversing valve stuck in mid position cause the pressures to be equalized?

 

Thanks

 

ApplianceDoctor

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ahh-cool   
ahh-cool

again I don't work on a lot of heat pumps. the compressor pumps refrigerant to the reversing valve and the valve determins which way the refrigerant goes. if it's stuck in mid position it willpump to the valve and bypass right back to the compressor

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ApplianceDoctor   
ApplianceDoctor

Thanks guys for all your help.

 

ApplianceDoctor

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jb8103   
jb8103

Sounds like he's given up on us.

 

I don't believe the compressor is running. He's hearing a lot of racket from the outside unit fan, and assuming the compressor is making some of that racket.

 

Where in the circuit did he check for amp draw? Did he mistakenly get the fan L1? 3.7 A would be about right.

 

It is not likely that pressures would be equal on both sides if the compressor was actually running. 125 PSIG corresponds to about 100 degrees F ambient, typical of an outdoor coil in the summer sun. The indoor coil P/T would correspond if he's taking pressures at the outdoor coil.

 

I'd have to be standing there to say for sure, but I bet our man has a bad capacitor.

Edited by jb8103

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ahh-cool   
ahh-cool

the fan amp draw should be anywhere between .8 and 1.5. 3.7 is too much for a fan, unless the fan is bad

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now