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Adirondack Bob

WPL Duet Sport M# WFW8300SW02

10 posts in this topic

Hi All, Working on a Duet Sport Washer Model# WFW8300SW02 Serial# HLU0895190.

 

The stored error Code is F20.

 

However, When a cycle is started, the Door Locks, then nothing. If I try to cancel the cycle, the Drain/Spin flashes and the Add a Garment Light flashes and the door will not unlock. Pushing Power or Cancel does nothing. The unit has to be unplugged to reset and I have to reach up and manually unlock the door.

 

Press/Hold 4 Seconds, Release 4 Seconds, Etc. gets me into the Diagnostic Mode to read the error code, but the washer wont continue on to do the Diagnostic Test. Then the Control seems frozen again and has to be unplugged to reset.

 

Next I tried the "Press Power, Select Clean Washer, Press Extra Rinse 4 times in 5 seconds. Press Extra Rinse 4 Times to advance to the next cycle" This Test did not work either, and unit had to be unplugged again.

 

Tried unplugging the connector with the Blue wires on the MCU and running a cycle. Did the same thing, Pressed Start and the door locked, then the machine seemed to be frozen and Drain/Spin flashing.

 

Is this actually the Serial Communication Error that Whirlpool doesnt even have a handle on?

 

Thank You, Bob

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Anything caught in the drain pump????

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F20 is a water fill problem.  This would be consistent with your statement that:

 

 

The stored error Code is F20.

 

However, When a cycle is started, the Door Locks, then nothing. 

 

 

Things to check:  voltage to water inlet valve, contacts properly actuating and switching on the pressure switch, gookus caught in the air dome on outer drum, pinholes in the pressure switch air tube.

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Thank Samurai, F20 is indeed the only code. Maybe I am just looking too deeply into this. What threw me off was not being able to run the Diagnostic Test mode, and not being able to Cancel or Power off the washer without unplugging unit, then door not unlocking.

 

I have a Water Level Switch, a CCU and a Door Lock sitting on my shelf from being wrong before. :wacko:

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It is odd, but it's also easy enough to verify whether or not the things I listed are working correctly.  I would definitely do that before looking for gremlins anywhere else.  In accordance with the Ichiban Law of the Prophecy, I would not even suggest that you just throw parts at this unit without doing your testing.  BTW, you can check the pressure switch actuation and the fill valve voltage from the CCU.  

 

One other thing to check at the CCU is the door latch assembly.  Check to see if contacts on the DS2 connector, pins 1 & 2, switch when you open and close the door.  Do the same check on the DLS connector, pins 1 and 2.  All pins 1, 2, and 3 on the DL3 connection should all have continuity with each other.  

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Just completed this call today. This was at their summer condo on the Great Sacandaga Lake in the Adirondacks. Only there occasionally. What some people call their "Summer Home"...... Must be nice!

 

Anyways, this turned out to be the Motor Control. I did all the tests outlined above and it gave me a better understanding of these washers. For some reason, the Duets give me more problems understanding what is wrong than any other washer.

 

F20 leads to bad MCU?

 

Thank You Samurai and CTG for helping with this matter. Much Appreciated!!

 

PS. The dryer was stacked on the Washer. I know the All Dolly has been discussed. Does the Samurai own one?

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Anyways, this turned out to be the Motor Control. 

 

F20 leads to bad MCU?

 

 

 

 

You replaced the MCU and this fixed it?  

 

 
 
PS. The dryer was stacked on the Washer. I know the All Dolly has been discussed. Does the Samurai own one?

 

 

I do have an All-Dolly but haven't used it in years since my boys are teenagers now and can go with me on a job where I need a second man (or All-Dolly). And the All-Dolly doesn't fit well in the Fixit Prius.   :blinky:

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Yes, I replaced the MCU and this washer is back up and running again.

 

The only error code was F20.

 

This is at their camp, and it malfunctioned at the beginning of May, so the only thing that I can think of as to why there was an F20 code is that maybe they tried to run the washer but had not turned the water on to the washer since it was winterized the previous year?

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Good job on the fix! How did it occur to you to replace the MCU? Did you have a revelation or a tip you read somewhere?

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A. Bob,   Can you check the board for visual signs of any damage???.........Burnt components, loose trace from board.......Could it have been a corroded terminal on the speed board ??????.................I.E. lost contact and replacing the board then made contact??????.............Around here on the Oregon coast, we got what we call " Coast Cancer".............Any bare  metal will rust out in no time and terminal contacts lose contact..............I.E... wiggle them and all is good................I be asking cuz you said the unit had been sitting for a while................

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