Begin your journey to appliance repair mastery...

Click here to check out our structured, online appliance repair training courses for rookies and experienced techs.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Stay connected with us...

Samurai on Facebook - become a fan today! Sign up for our free newsletter and keep up with all things Appliantology. Subscribe to our YouTube channel for lots of appliance repair tips and help! Follow the Samurai on Twitter and get timely morsels of Appliantological Wisdom! Subscribe to our MST Radio podcast to learn secrets of the trade.
r&htelevision

Kenmore Mod.36275211101 No gas to oven

15 posts in this topic

Checked ignitorit was pulling 3.4a so replaced oven safty valve. Still no gas the gas line comes right from the regulator. Top burrners working fine. Is it possiable to get gas to burrners and not to oven safty valve. HERB 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Moved to the Kitchen forum.

Maybe your current measurement was inaccurate and the ignitor really is bad?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe the little valve on the regulator got knocked into the off position...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for resopnding. I cheched the ignitor twice checked ok.If the the regulator was switshed off would the top burners still work. HERB

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Are all the holes open and clear on your oven burner tube especially in the pilot area adjacent to the ignitor?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If the regulator has the little lever near the gas tube that feeds the oven, then if it is turned off there will be no gas going to the oven at all and the surface burners will still work. 

 

Any range that has a regulator with a little on/off lever - that lever only shuts off the gas to the oven not the surface burners.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If one of the wires to the Ignitors is shorted to chassis / ground,

you'll get those symptoms.

The Ignitor should read about 1 OHM

and about 3.3v AC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Ignitor should read about 1 OHM

 

 

I believe you meant to say the gas safety valve should read about 1 OHM, (Not the ignitor)

 

The ignitor will have somewhere between 100-150 ohms if I recall correctly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I believe you meant to say the gas safety valve should read about 1 OHM, (Not the ignitor)

 

The ignitor will have somewhere between 100-150 ohms if I recall correctly.

sorry, I'm not at home with with my desk-top computer,

I'm in a motel room this week-end with my 10" in hand ..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

I'm in a motel room this week-end with my 10" in hand ..

 

 

Sounds like an Aerosmith song...

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sorry, I'm not at homw with with my desk-top computer,

I'm in a motel room this week-end with my 10" in hand ..

You really should consider an upgrade.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You really should consider an upgrade.

 

I hope you're talking about Reg's tablet, Brother jumptrout.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I hope you're talking about Reg's tablet, Brother jumptrout.

Call it what you will.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Found lever on regulator missing. put another lever on working ok now.thank for everyones help. HERB

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Found an  advertisement in the back of my A.A.P.R. magazine, for a larger upgrade, use a vacuum pump...... :thumbsup: ..............

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites