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Kenmore Coldspot slow ice production

48 posts in this topic

Perhaps the electric eye board is faulty, the ice maker is only energized when that board says "go"! Part 4389102

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Perhaps the electric eye board is faulty, the ice maker is only energized when that board says "go"! Part 4389102

You could be right but if it was the optics, there should not be such a difference in ice production due to freezer settings so long as the temps are below 11f. I suspect the temps rise above that number during defrost, door openings, fridge cold control satisfied etc then takes a while to drop below 11f. But when he sets the freezer thermostat really low, it doesnt rise above 11f as often thus lots of ice. Just a theory.. Data logger will tell the tale.

btw, you could bypass the optics just to rule it out before you spend additional money

Here is a logger I use

http://www.amazon.com/Supco-SL300T-Miniature-Logger-Temperature/dp/B004XS1HW0

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I'd like to bypass the optics and see what happens.  How would I do that?

 

I'm still going to try a data logger.

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my wife has a good theory, when we get up in the morning or come home from a trip and open the fridge door, the ice maker dumps ice.

 

this morning I got up and checked the freezer for ice, no new ice all night, we used up the half full level yesterday and now it only has a few cubes in it, the mold had ice in it, that was 30 minutes ago, she just came in and opened the fridge and the ice maker dumped ice

 

If I can determine how to bypass the optics I'll give that a try and I'll get a data logger

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You can try getting a data logger but that will only tell you if the temperature in the freezer goes out of bounds. Some other simple solutions (that will require patience, but get to the heart of the matter which is whether power to the ice maker is being interrupted) that I can think of are.

 

1. Remove ice maker from freezer, connect a simple clock to the icemaker's connectors and place clock on top of fridge and set time of day into it. Check clock next few days, if it resets and flashes 12:00 o clock or lags behind you know that power to the ice maker circuit was lost and this must be investigated.

 

2. Remove ice maker water fill pipe from the back of the fridge and point it into a bucket overnight. The volume of water collected can then be observed and you can fill the ice maker's mold with the collected water and dump the water from the mold and refill and dump and ..... this way you can see how many times the ice maker called for ice during the night. This will indicate not only that ice maker cycled regularly but also that water delivery system to ice maker was good all throughout as well at least until the fill tube.

 

3. This solution requires waaaaay too much patience so it may not be the best. Remove leads from water solenoid and connect a simple light bulb to them and see if the bulb cycles with regular periodicity throughout the day, if so then ice maker is calling for water regularly.

 

These are somewhat crude solutions but I am a huge fan of simplicity when devising solutions. Also, I assume you know your way around electricity well enough to implement these solutions. Others may have even better ideas but I just thought I'd throw my two cents out on it.

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The ice maker has been changed and the same thing is happening. That pretty much rules out the icemaker. However it may not be calling for water due to temps only occasionally reaching 11f. Adding that to the symptom that it produces more ice when the freezer temps are lowered way down. This eliminates solenoid, and water delivey system as well. It does however suggests a possible temp problem. That type of problem us best ferreted out with a logger. Freezer temps being out of bounds will slow or prevent ice harvesting.

The clock test is interesting but it will not work on the indoor ice system since the icemaker is not constantly under power like the standard design. Although I love using simple procedures to test, with these new appliances, that's like bringing a pea shooter to a gun fight.

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I'd like to bypass the optics and see what happens. How would I do that?

I'm still going to try a data logger.

okay...unplug the fridge then remove the optics control located on the right side of the freezer

disconnect the harness.... take a small piece of wire and insert one in into the connector that corresponds to the black and white wire and another that corresponds to the black wire. Use tape to secure the wires.. Plug fridge back in.

If your fridge is dumping ice when you open the fridge door, maybe your ice bucket isn't seated properly and the cut outs at the top of the bucket aren't aligned properly with the optical beam. Slight jarring of the door may align it enough to allow harvesting.

Edited by DurhamAppliance

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I've got the jumper in place now.  I'll see what it does.

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Sometimes ice gets stuck before dropping into the bin causing the ice maker to pause. Do you ever see one cube hanging up next to fill cup? Just want to make sure we are not missing something simple. Some ice makers have a gap between last fin on right and fill cup. Later production on the full size ice makers eliminated this gap. A cube can get stuck there. It could be when you open the door it falls and then can go into harvest. If this is not the issue it could still be bad optics, maybe opening the door wakes up the optics. Your jumper test should tell us more

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Good observation JJ! I have to remember that one.

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nothing has happened.   I used a paper clip at first but I really don't think it was making contact.  I got a 18 gauge piece of wire, made a jumper and plugged it in between the black & white wires.  I plugged in fridege and nothing, fridge light still off, checked breaker and it had blown.  I  switched breaker on and it immediatley tripped to off.  I removed the jumper and tried breaker and it works.  So when jumper is installed it trips the breaker for the fridge.

 

What does that mean?

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Okay....do you have a black wire with white on it? then jump that wire with the black wire

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jumper is now betwen black and black/white, no sparks and breaker is happy, fridge is running now

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is there Ice or water in the ice maker mold?

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I'm hopefull, when I installed the jumper there was ice in the mold, it had been there all morning, it ejected it right away and refilled with water, it's freezing another batch right now so I'll see how long it takes to eject.

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hmmmm.... if it works then maybe the door closing jogs the optics board.. There may a loose wire in the connection or the board itself.

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so far it's made more ice today than it has ever, bin is still not full, when it's full I'll remove the jumper

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I pulled the jumper out last night at 11.  The ice maker almost filled up the ice bucket this afternoon.  I'm going to order the optic board since the maker is working with this jumper in place.  I couldn't find any loose connects in the harness or on the board.  I'm thinking the mico relay on the board is bad or something else in the optic portion of the board.

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I installed the new level control boards Saturday and this thing is making ice faster than ever.  Thanks for all the help.  I believe both the ice maker assembly and the level control had problems.

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Whew!  A long journey on this one.  Great topic-- odd problem with a successful resolution.  Thanks for posting the outcome!  

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