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workmanbc

Whirlpool Duet motor vs motor control troubleshooting

9 posts in this topic

I have a whirlpool duet that won't spin.  everything else works.  but the motor won't engage.  it is the oldest of the duets, so does not have some of the newer troubleshooting features.  how can I tell if I need to replace the motor, or the motor control?  Thanks

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

model number ?

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any Error Codes ?

 

Starting Service History Mode & Diagnostic Test:
NOTE: The washer must be empty and the control must be in the OFF state before pressing the touch-pad sequence to
start the test.
1. Close the door.

2. Select any one key (except PAUSE/CANCEL) and follow the steps below, using the same key (remember the key):
Press/hold 4 seconds

Release for 4 seconds
Press/hold 4 seconds
Release for 4 seconds
Press/hold 4 seconds

3. Upon release, all console LED lights will turn on for 5 seconds.
4. If there are any failure codes, they will be displayed in the Estimated Time Remaining display.
NOTE: This program recalls the most recent failure code first.
Press the same key to advance to the next failure code.
(If the console doesn’t change then, the same failure code was stored multiple times.)
If there aren’t any more failure codes all the lights on the console will turn on for 5 seconds.

Next the washer begins the Diagnostic Test.
To cancel out of service mode press PAUSE/CANCEL.
(This exits you out of the program.)

 

NOTE: After the diagnostic test has finished, unplug washer or disconnect power cord and wait for 15 seconds.

After that, plug in washer or reconnect power cord.

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Yes, I have done that before.  No error codes show up. Then it selects Rinse/Spin no matter where the dial is pointed.  The tub should start to spin, but does not.  The only lights on are the Rinse/Spin light and the red "Pause/Cancel door locked" light.  But nothing happens.  It just sits there.  And when I push the cancel button, the door does not unlock.  I can release it manually.

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Ohm out the windings on the motor. Should all have the same reading, some low ohm value.

Also ohm from windings to motor chassis. Should read open.

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Yes - ohm out the motor - the 2 red wires should be at approx 120 ohms - the other 3 should all be around 6 ohms.  Also check the harness wires between the MCU and the Motor.  Each wire should have full continuity. If the motor and harness check out good:

 

Disconnect the MI3 (3 wire) connector from the CCU (that's the control board in the top right front corner.)  Then start the machine again.  It should lock the door but will not run ... now hit cancel and see if the the door unlocks.  If it does, then you have a bad MCU (Motor Control Unit.)  If there are no changes in what the machine does compared to when the MI3 connector is connected, then you need to do further testing at the MCU.

 

So - if disconnecting the MI3 made no apparent difference in what the machine is doing, then reconnect it and do the following 'live' (read dangerous) test.

 

Start the machine on a drain and spin cycle.  You will be checking voltages at the MCU with the wires connected.  You should find 120 v AC at the two pink wires ... and 5 v DC between the 2 outside blue wires.  If you find these readings, and the motor and harness are good, you have a bad MCU.  If you don't get those readings at the MCU, then check all wires for continuity between the MCU and the CCU.  If all good - then you have a bad CCU.  

 

Whew!

Edited by Strathy

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So what happened on this one, workman?

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