Lost with the new appliances? The Samurai teaches you Circuit Fu…

Click here to check out our structured, online appliance repair training courses for rookies and experienced techs.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Stay connected with us...

Samurai on Facebook - become a fan today! Sign up for our free newsletter and keep up with all things Appliantology. Subscribe to our YouTube channel for lots of appliance repair tips and help! Follow the Samurai on Twitter and get timely morsels of Appliantological Wisdom! Subscribe to our MST Radio podcast to learn secrets of the trade.
  • Announcements

    • Samurai Appliance Repair Man

      [Webinar] Basic Refrigeration Sealed System Thermodynamics   09/21/2017

      See this calendar event for details:                   
    • Samurai Appliance Repair Man

      Webinar Recordings Index Page   09/21/2017

      One of the benefits of your Professional Appliantologist membership is that you can attend the regular, live training webinars and you have access to the recordings as well. So if you can't make it to the live webinar, catch the recording at your convenience. The webinar recordings are conveniently listed for you on the Webinar Recordings Index Page.   
Sign in to follow this  
dgp

Slow Dip on Rudd Power Vent Water Heater

Recommended Posts

dgp   
dgp

I have a slow drip from my Rudd Water Heater through the Temp and Pressure Relief Value.

 

The heater is a Power Vent model PVP75FW

 

We are on well water and the water contains minerals which have damaged other appliances.  We have installed a CSI filter recently.

 

So, being a relief valve, I'm wondering if it is "Relieving" itself or if I may have a damaged valve.

 

And just out of curiosity, how many others type "value" for "valve".  I seem to do it all the time.

 

dgp


By "slow leak" I mean perhaps just under a gallon over 30 hours or so.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Bullstok   
Bullstok

Did u or anone else fiddle with it (the valve) when it was not leaking?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dgp   
dgp

No.  And I say that with the conviction of a man with a 5 year old loose in the house.  

 

I simply noticed a bit a water on the floor, then started to keep an eye on it with a pan underneath.

 

I don't know the formal name, but the valve is the type that flicks open with a finger.  It is self closing with a spring load.

 

I was searching the forum and manuals and noticed that thermal expansion can be an issue.  We have a well and bladder, so I don't know that our system is actually "closed".

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Bullstok   
Bullstok

A well tank acts as a place for the pressure buildup, when the water is heated, to go. Unless there is a check valve between the heater and the well tank. A few water softeners have built in check valves.

Sometimes the t&p valve gets weak.

Sometimes the well pressure switch goes bad and the pump runs a little too high once in awhile.

Sometimes the bladder tank fails and is waterlogged (the pump goes on and off every several seconds when using water.)

Sometimes the t&p wept a little and developed debris in the valve seat and starts to drip.

Sometimes it is actually a symptom of excess pressure or temperature. Not very often does the leak have anything to do with the actual pressure or temperature being to high though, in my experience. 6 out of 10 if you put on a new valve it is then fine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dgp   
dgp

The system has been working fine for years, so I'd think I can cross off the bladder and new pressure increases.

 

Seems like starting with a new valve would be the best, safe bet.  Is replacing the valve a DIY option?

Edited by dgp

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
RegUS_PatOff   
RegUS_PatOff

I'm not a Water Heater expert, but do you know what the actual hot water temperature is ?

Also, if possible, turn the Water Heater OFF for a day or so

to see if it continues to leak (without the water "expanding")

There have been discussions on wheather to "test" the T&P Valve once in a while, which may flush out some rust.

OR that "rust" may prevent the Valve from closing completly.

Also, have you recently drained a few gallons from the bottom Water Valve to flush out the "rust" ?

 

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Bullstok   
Bullstok

Pie.

Get new valve (same rating on tag)

Shutoff water

Turn off power to heater (& gas too if u r the paranoid type)

Drain water out of old t&p by pulling handle till no more comes out (dont let anyone open a faucet while doing this) or at bottom boiler drain

Thread tape new valve (5 wraps should do it)

Remove old valve

Thread in new valve

Water back on

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dgp   
dgp

Of course I had the idea of flushing out the water heater only after I had the problem.  That's just me and my endless list of projects.  So, yes, I will flush it out.  And, no, I haven't done it lately.  And, yes, I have done it before.

 

Thanks for the suggestions.  Wonderful site!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dgp   
dgp

Yamabushi, I owe you a Mountain Dew.  Thanks for the instructions.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dgp   
dgp

The pressure valve looks like a standardized part.  Can I simply go to Home Depot and get something like this Valve?

 

Or perhaps the pressure setting has to match.  I've tried the other suggestions and feel I simply need to replace it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Bullstok   
Bullstok

Thats the one. The reason i say make it match is because there are many kinds for many applications. Some are only pressure, some are for low pressures, some are for high temps. But most any valve meant for a residential water heater are fine. That DOES NOT INCLUDE the ones for tankless heaters. They are usually pressure only (they dont have the white probe sticking out past the threads). Note that some water heaters have a longer than standard valve because they have thick insulation on the tank. ie: http://t.homedepot.com/p/Cash-Acme-3-4-in-Temperature-and-Pressure-Relief-Valve-with-2-1-2-in-Shank/203164786/?MERCH=REC-_-tablet_pip1_rr-1-_-NA-_-203164786-_-N&showPLP=false

Try to avoid the cheap ones. Not worth the time.

Edited by Bullstok
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dgp   
dgp

 Note that some water heaters have a longer than standard valve because they have thick insulation on the tank. ie: http://t.homedepot.com/p/Cash-Acme-3-4-in-Temperature-and-Pressure-Relief-Valve-with-2-1-2-in-Shank/203164786/?MERCH=REC-_-tablet_pip1_rr-1-_-NA-_-203164786-_-N&showPLP=false

Try to avoid the cheap ones. Not worth the time.

I actually did get a pressure valve from Home Depot with too short an extension and had to take it back.  The longer valve was needed to get through the insulation.  Unfortunately, I didn't heed your warning and had to make two trips.  Now all is well.  Thanks Yamabushi.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this