Check out our online tech training courses at Master Samurai Tech…

Click here to check out our structured, online appliance repair training courses for rookies and experienced techs.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Stay connected with us...

Samurai on Facebook - become a fan today! Sign up for our free newsletter and keep up with all things Appliantology. Subscribe to our YouTube channel for lots of appliance repair tips and help! Follow the Samurai on Twitter and get timely morsels of Appliantological Wisdom! Subscribe to our MST Radio podcast to learn secrets of the trade.
MTC(SS)

Frigidaire Electric Range Troubleshooting

9 posts in this topic

  I have a Frigidaire oven that both the broiler and bake elements are not heating. Resistance on bake element was 16 ohms and on broiler was 14.5 (don't recall if that was K).  The controller is an "ES 300" and appears to be functioning properly, fault codes, operational, etc. Door switch functioning, Stove top works, clock works.    Elements not receiving power.  I checked the temperature sensor and it indicated an open.  However, when I actually removed from temp sensor from the circuit and applied power, I received the F3 fault code, and still indicated OL. 

 

  Can a faulty temp sensor prevent power from reaching the oven elements?  The service manual states temp sensor resistance should be between 800 and 3K ohms.  It seems odd to me that the Fault code was not indicated while the part was installed, yet had no continuity, but when removed, the fault code was displayed. 

 

  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  I am ordering the sensor but am still unsure if that is my entire problem. 

 

Thanks

Jeff MTC(SS)

Edited by MTC(SS)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

... bake element was 16 ohms and on broiler was 14.5 (don't recall if that was K). 

... I checked the temperature sensor and it indicated an open.

... temp sensor resistance should be between 800 and 3K ohms.

1) readings sound OK, unless they were K = x times 1000)

2) open ?

3) should read about 1.1K = 1100 OHMs at room temperature

Is you OHM meter set to the correct range ?

 

The problem sounds like a bad Oven Controller ...

have you recently used Self-Clean ? :nono:

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1056306

Oven-Control-Board-316207529-01202782.jp

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

O.k. I recheck "R" on sensor, yep about 1.1K.  However, according to step 1. and 2. of the ES 300 Troubleshooting section "No Heat" for both broiler and bake, With the oven not programed, I received  approx. 0 volts drop between BA and Neutral and the same for BR to Neutral.  Once  programed to the associated element I received 0 volts to either element.  I think it is the wiring.  I am probably wrong but the controller seems to be functioning in all other areas fine.  Is it possible for the wiring to go out to both elements at the same time.  Actually the unit is in a rental and there is no telling how the fault occurred.  Judging by the condition of the stove when returned to me, no self clean had not been used in a while.   Why the no, no icon for that question?   Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

... Once  programed to the associated element I received 0 volts to either element.

... Why the no, no icon for that question?  

1) that's one of the functions of the Controller ...

check to make sure there's 240v between L1 and L2 IN on the Oven Controller

2) Self-Clean  :woot:

“My Rules”:

Rule #1) Don't ever use Self-Clean on any Oven.

Rule #2) If you're thinking about using Self-Clean, see rule #1.

Self-Clean uses nearly 1000F for 3 hours or more. burnin.gif

That can wreak havoc on Electronic Controllers and Connections.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did you check to see if you are getting 120 volts from BA to Neutral when programmed for bake and 120 volts from BR to Neutral when programmed for broil?   You seem to only mention you check this in OFF and got 0 volt reading which would be correct.

 

Since both don't work I would suspect the DBL (Double Line Break relay - or solder connections usually bad).  You could pull the L2 in and L2 out wires and connect them together with a jumper wire then try it again - I'm pretty sure that is going to be the problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

...  Once  programed to the associated element I received 0 volts to either element.

also, external no DLB Relay on this model,

but the on-board DLB Relay may have some solder connection problems

 

 

Edited by RegUS_PatOff

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info.  I did not mention, but yes I was getting 120v BA to Neutral and 120 BR to neutral when set respectively.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

... yes I was getting 120v BA to Neutral and 120 BR to neutral when set respectively.

can't always use Neutral as a reference when working on 240v appliances ...

Disconnect the BA and BR, THEN measure from each Board Terminal to Neutral,

and then measure from each wire to Neutral

There may be 120v at each Terminal,

but I'm guessing you wont "see" the L2 voltage coming from the L2 OUT at the Elements.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Makes sense, thanks.  I will check when I go over in the morning. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites