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Noviceguy

Samsung BigWash Q1044 spins to max rpm and buttons don't respond

15 posts in this topic

Hi there, I have been trying to fix this washer for quite some time now but it has been a puzzle to me and I will try to be as accurate as possible:

 

The machine was working fine when the house power went down, after that it has not worked properly.

 

What happens now is that everytime I plug it to the wall it immediatly starts spinning non-stop until it hits max RPM and then it stays there spinning at max RPM.

 

None of the buttons work, not even the power button, I push them and nothing changes.

 

The display is working (not sure if working fully as it should but it lights up) but it doesn't show any errors, instead it shows a - - - - - - for every digit field and stays like that.

 

The machine only stops spinning when I unplug it from the wall.

 

 

If it is helpful, it feels as if I am connecting the motor directly to the wall, like it's complety bypassing the electronic components. I have opened the front panel hoping to see a busted capacitor but they are all flat and tidy, no bulges of any kind.

 

I have practically none electronic skill/knowledge but I think it might be a problem with the board itself or the noise filter (although this last one hardly fails I am more inclined for the board fault) and before I send it for repair and spend quite some money I would like to be sure. It would be an issue to have it returned from repair and find out that the problem is in another component.

 

Does any of you know what might be the root of the problem here? I have never seen this issue anywhere in the internet and I have been searching for over a month with no luck.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

So while I was waiting for someone to give me a hand here I went ahead and took the module off the machine and started cleaning it (it was filled with cockroaches droppings). During the cleanup I was looking closely to any indication of busted component and nothing was showing with problems until I tried to clean a dark zone (up and to the right) that was not coming off.

 

http://i.imgur.com/gETfuKX.jpg

 

This was making me angry and I decided to take the module apart and clean it better and at last I found the problem with the washing machine. It seems that one cockroach was passing between two leads and caused a short-circuit that completely destroyed the PCB connection, I found it completely roasted on the bottom of the module below that burned area.

 

http://i.imgur.com/e93N7VU.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/RolEdYX.jpg

 

Now the components that were using that connection are the big aluminium block and some sort of screwed black square. I have no idea what that black square is but to my knowledge the aluminium blocks in electronics are usually to take heat away (heatsink).

 

So I need a new module and my question now is, does anyone know where I can get one? I'm in europe-portugal, btw, and haven't had any luck finding one online.

 

I decided to post my short experience here just in case someone else faces the same problem.

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The four terminal component opposite the burnt component on the heatsink appears to be a bridge rectifier diode, (converts AC input voltage to DC output).

 

The burned component and traces appear to be a control triac, (most likely the motor control triac), which if shorted as it appears, is sending power directly to the motor instead of switching on/off by the controls on the board.

 

If you can't find another board or anyone to repair your old one you might be able to get numbers off the old component and find a replacement, de-solder/remove burnt component and replace with a new and repair the burnt board traces with a good heavy single strand copper wire.

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Hello, Sensei

 

Yes, that is exactly it. There are two bridge rectifier diodes connected to the heatsink: a small one with 3 connections and a large one (and flat) with 4 connections. The small one is one of the afffected by the burned pcb trails.

 

"(...) which if shorted as it appears, is sending power directly to the motor instead of switching on/off by the controls on the board"

Which is exactly what was happening!

 

I was thinking about the pcb bypass "chirurgy" before your suggestion and now that I read it I am more glad that it is possible, although I wouldn't do it myself because I lack the knowledge and proper tools to do it.

 

I will be heading today to one of their tech support branches in my area and see how it goes, if it is too expensive I will keep searching.

 

Thanks, you guys know a lot!

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The smaller component isn't a bridge rectifier diode, it is either a triac, (an electronic switch), or possibly a Mosfet, (I'm not really that up on board level components, only have rudimentary knowledge in this area).

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I understand that, only after I re-read your reply I noticed that you were talking about the large flat one on the right and I discovered that the smaller one is a voltage regulator but since I can't edit my replies I left it like that.

 

And I might leave an update now, I have been searching everywhere and so far I only found the PCB itself on the US which costs $16 but to send it here would end up costing +/-$60, and it would still need to have the components soldered so it would cost even more after.

 

I also found one in spain but it costs 162,20€ which is just too much and for a moment I was statisfied when I found one for 70€ but today I got the message from them saying that the module is no longer available.

 

So I am almost reaching the point of having to do that hack to bypass the burnt tracers, I just hope that if it comes to that they have any of the components that might need replacement if necessary.

 

By the way, I cleaned the back a bit better and I saw that there was one piece that I don't know what it does:

 

http://i.imgur.com/bomio4y.jpg

 

Which looks exactly like the "C21" beige square in this photo:

 

http://www.ethernut.de/img/13g-to-13f-top.png

 

I've written down the values that I could read of my component, C5 104, maybe it needs replacement or maybe not but I thought it would be better to let them know if it comes to the repair stage.

 

If I am wrong please correct me, I really appreciate it.

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I sent to the repairs to see if they could do something, the smaller box screwed to the aluminium heatsink is this one

 

http://www.datasheetlib.com/datasheet/849274/m10lz47_toshiba-semiconductor.html

 

M10LZ47 5-J

 

I couldn't read it well before because my sight is not very well and in the shop they had a magnifying glass which I took a peak with and wrote down the label. It looked perfectly fine, no sign of any damage so I am hoping that the only thing that needs to be fixed are the PCB tracers.

 

They told me they will see if any part needs replacement, if they find any then they will see if they have a new one, if not then they won't continue since it would be a waste of money.

 

Fingers crossed, hope they manage to repair it.

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The part on your board C5 that looks like C21 in your other picture is a surface mount capacitor.

 

The letter and number markings on boards are:

C = Capacitor

CN = Connector

D = Diode

IC = ?Integrated Circuit (Which I believe what you think is 104 is IC4-the reference to the  M10LZ47 5-J on the other side of board, see IC3 on opposite side of board next to transformer and large capacitor).

J = Jumper

R = Resistor

V = Varistor (a power surge absorbing device)

 

These are some of the most common ones, the number is just a reference number that would correspond to the build sheet on the board.

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Wow, I would never thought it was another capacitor, they really come in every shape, size and form!

 

About the 104 being IC4, I just followed the system of other capacitors that were on that board:

 

http://i.imgur.com/Q1xa2yh.jpg

 

Although I also found one "104" without any of those brown capacitors near it...

 

The reason why I am almost certain the burned number is 104 and not IC4 is because below the M10LZ47 5-J there is a TRI or TR1 which I am assuming to be related to the M10LZ47 5-J, leaving the other code related to the capacitor.

 

And also in that last picture you can see IC1 on the right-left side, which doesn't look anything like the area in question.

 

Either way it is in repairs and I am waiting for some update from them, I just hope that the chip or the LCD are not burned because that would be impossible for me to find a replacement, the other parts seem to be fairly easy to at least find online in case they don't have it in stock.

 

Thanks for the continuous input, sensei, it has been very instructive!

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So I received the fixed part, installed it and it's the same thing. I believe that somehow the programs were erased from the chip and it's now working in blank mode, allowing the electricty to flow directly to the open connections which in this case are the display and motor.

 

I have recorded what happens everytime I connect the plug to the wall so that whoever is interested has a better understanding of my problem:

 

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=A7A774340EBDCCAA!1780&authkey=!AEWvVyl4Opwf-hU&ithint=video%2c.mp4

 

The guy did a good job at repairing the burned tracers but sadly it was not enough.

 

I don't know what else I can do now, money is short so I can't just buy a new washing machine and this one was really expensive.

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Looks like the 104's without a letter on them are the value of the surface mount capacitor, I see a couple others with a 103 near them and a few of the surface mount resistors that show in the pictures have there value near them.

 

TR = Triac/Transistor (B - Base, C - Collector, E - Emitter)

Edited by Budget Appliance Repair

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Hi, sensei, I agree with you, the 104 and 103 have to be the capacitor's values and the TR1 can only be the transistor 1.

 

I have been trying to find out what I can do since it's impossible to find a pcb replacement for my model and I was wondering if I can use the PCB from the model above or below, since all 3 share the exact same specifications and only differ in RPM.

 

This is becoming a very frustrating endeavour and it pains me to see that it will most likely not be possible to get it working again.

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Just wanted to leave an update, I replace the PCB with another from a completely different model that had AG+.

I thought it wouldn't work at first because I didn't have the Silver Nano extra pcb and for my surprise it did work so if anyone is having the same problems of finding a replacement for their model then find one that is the equivalent of yours and it will work.
I don't know if the same is possible with the dryer versions so only try with those if you have absolutely no other choice.

My washing machine is a Q1044, portugal model - original PCB model is MFS-Q1044-00 - and the PCB that I used for replacement is from the Polish (or russian, I am not quite sure now) model F1245AV - PCB model MFS-1245A-00.

All connections fit perfectly and everything works well, except for the Silver Nano technology which I wouldn't want either way.

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Good to hear that you where able to solve your problem.

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