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atcherservice

Subzero 427RG2 Wine Frige

5 posts in this topic

I have a SZ 427RG2 Wine frig with 2 frig drawers. This serial # F2463688. This has 2 compressors, 1 for the wine and 1 for the frig. Home owners complaint was the frig drawers are warm. I check out the unit to find compressors are running and hot as can be due to dirty coils and Condenser fan not running. I was unable to access the full unit due to a custom kick plate so I could not see if in fact the fan was seized. I checked the relay that according to the schematic the DPDT relay should be feeding voltage to the fan, and confirmed that 120v was present. I assumed that 120v to the motor and no fan means the fan is bad. I order the condenser fan, as well as the relays(according to PD does not exist). I take the fan only, and pull the bottom unit. When I gained access and changed the fan motor the fan would be in a humming state, as if it was not getting enough power. I measured voltage and at the power connector where the fan plugs into from one side I get 120V off there brown wire to chassis, and across the plug I get 120V, but the fan not running. Here is the questions.

 

If I get 120V from line to chassis or line to neutral  but not neutral to anything have I lost my leg of power?

 

When I go to the relay and ck voltage from the white or neutral I am getting no power, am I to assume that there is a break in the wire or if I am wrong is it just a bad motor?

 

I have order another motor, but when I traced white back to the main harness plug and I disconnected it I was able to get voltage from the white wire that also ties into another power harness for the wine box.

 

I also noticed that EVERY Molex connector I touched to disconnect was brittle, still connected but may consider swapping wire harness out.

 

I ohmed out both motors with 2 meters and got resistance, but no continuity beep. Is it possible that the motor is in fact bad even though I am not able to confirm an electrical break.

 

I STRIVE NOT to be a parts changing monkey and really hate the fact that I can't confirm that my diag is incorrect so even as I checked that service book, it does state in the trouble shooting part that the relay is there after a certain serial # even though the IPL does not show the relay is there.

 

I seek help from what is ending up to be being a Curious George Monkey and throwing parts at something. I am looking at motors, main control a mysterious relay and harness. What I feel is that the motor is bad and dirty coils are the true culprits.

 

Thanks,

 

Ken

Atcher Service

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The following measurements should be made with the Fan connected.

When either Compressor is running, there should be 120v AC across the Fan Connector,

Brown wire to chassis should be 120v AC (when either Compressor is running)

White wire to chassis should be 0v AC (always)

Edited by RegUS_PatOff

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On most meters the continuity check beeper will only sound on up to a specific ohm reading, (usually 75 ohms or less depending on the meter).

 

On most fan motors the ohms of the windings will be more then what will trigger the beep of a continuity test on the meter, you would have to have the meter set to an auto-range setting or 2000+ ohms setting to get the actual reading of the windings of the motor.

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thanks guys, if I had unplug the fan at the molex connector and got the reading of 120V to brown and white across the plug then the motor should be turning? Also during these check the compressors were running? I would them be confirming that the fan is indeed bad and my replacement is bad as well.

 

thanks-ken

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... The following measurements should be made with the Fan connected.

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