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heathblue

Kenmore washer won't agitate, spin or rinse, just ticks or hums

23 posts in this topic

I am having problems with my whirlpool direct drive washing machine, model # LSN1000KQ0.  About 3 months ago it stopped when it got to the rinse cycle.  I took it apart to look at it and it started working again with the top just slightly screwed off.  I didn't understand it but hey, it was working so I went with it.  Last week it stopped again at the rinse cycle, it wouldn't advance to the high spin or drain the water or anything.  It would fill with water and then agitate a little and then just stop.  If I advanced myself it would still just make a little ticking noise, on the rinse, or a buzzing sound, on the high spin.  I looked at the lid switch-good, the water inlet valve is good- it fills just fine with a cold water wash,  and then figured it had to be the timer.  I ordered it and replaced  it today.  Same problem as before except now it won't agitate either!  It fills with cold water and then just ticks and stops after a bit.  After trying to trouble shoot some more and running it it is starting to stink really bad and the wires are really hot. Is my motor toast?  There is nothing in the way of the pump, it looks great.  The coupler is good.  Please help my poor pathetic repair skills!

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

  Check the connector at the motor. Look for burned/corroded wires/terminals, look for broken wires, check the connections at the motor thermal overload switch as well. Check the condition of the capacitor and it's connections. It is located on the back panel near the water inlet valve. Pull the pump off the motor and see if motor will run. Easiest way to do all this is to remove the cabinet and jump out the lid switch for testing puposes.

 

Eric

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is the pump turning freely?

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I think Brother telefunken is on to something.  Easy test for this is to unclip the pump from the motor, pull it off the motor shaft and tie it back.  Then jump the lid switch and run it.  If it takes off, replace the pump: http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Drain-Pump/3363394/3296

 

365-day Return Policy:  http://www.repairclinic.com/Layer/Return-Policy

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  . Pull the pump off the motor and see if motor will run.

 

Eric

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Sometimes I skim through so quickly trying to catch up that I miss little gems buried in posts.  Sorry about that, Eric.  

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I pulled the pump off. It's still just ticking.  The wiring on the motor seems okay.  I am still checking the motor thermal overload and the capicitor.  Thanks for all the suggestions!

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The motor thermal overload tested good.  I don't exactly know how to check the capacitor but it looks okay.  I did fry the plastic connector to the lid switch when I jumped it. The little plastic piece holding the three wires melted and smoked pretty good. I jumped it again though and it didn't smoke or anything maybe I just put in the wires too far?  Any thing else it could be?  It still fills with water  (well not really because the pump isn't attached) but it doesn't agitate, spin or rinse.

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  Is there any noise at all from the motor when you place it in wash or spin mode? Does the timer advance at all while in wash or spin? Lid switch must be bypassed for spin.

 

Eric

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When in wash and spin mode the timer just ticks like it is advancing but no noise from the motor at all.

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When in wash and spin mode the timer just ticks like it is advancing but no noise from the motor at all.

In the wash mode it won't agitate unless it is full of water and the water level switch activates to engage the agitation.

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Well the pump is not attached right now per suggestion by others so it won't fill up so it won't agitate.  When the pump is attached it feels with water and the water just sits there. It doesn't ever agiate, drain, spin or rinse.

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  The timer shouldn't advance either in wash mode unless tub is full and water level switch is working, unless the timer is screwed up. BTW, this washer does have a dry agitate function if timer is placed in final 2 minutes of wash cycle (will agitate with no water). Anyway, you need to do some electrical troubleshooting or at least some continuity checks to figure out where you are losing power. I'm concerned about that lid switch receptacle that you burned up.

 

Eric


  The pump is not used to fill the washer, it is only used to drain it. Washer should fill normally with pump removed.

 

Eric

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Sorry, I had the hoses unattached from the pump because originally I was looking to see if anything had gotten stuck.  And sorry, upon further inspection the motor does hum a little bit while timer ticks in all modes.  I pretty much know nothing about electrical troubleshooting. I do have a meter but I am so lost of how to do it, except that motor thermal overload thing -- I tested that because I saw someone do it on a youtube video.  So do you think it is definitely electrical and not some part that needs replaced.  Sorry I am an idiot.  I have fixed this machine about 6 times on various parts and feel like I can replace a part, but if it is electrical I might have to give into my husband and buy a new machine.  urgh!

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The motor hums?  Try to spin the motor while in the spin cycle with the pump off.  If it takes off, capacitor is lacking oomph.   Check A Utube video 'testing capacitor'

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  So do you think it is definitely electrical and not some part that needs replaced.  

  With pump off, are you able to freely rotate the motor shaft by hand in either direction? If not, remove motor and try with motor sitting on the floor. If you can rotate motor shaft, it appears you are not getting proper power to the motor. This could be due to faulty connections, faulty wiring, bad timer, bad capacitor, bad motor switch, bad motor (not likely). Electrical troubleshooting using the wiring diagram and multimeter is required to narrow down the problem, or you can just throw parts at it til it's fixed, which BTW is the way many appliance tech's operate. This machine is definitely worth fixing in my opinion. It is a Whirlpool direct drive design and is far better than anything you can get today.

 

Eric

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The motor hums?  Try to spin the motor while in the spin cycle with the pump off.  If it takes off, capacitor is lacking oomph.   Check A Utube video 'testing capacitor'

That is true it could be a bad capicator if spinning the motor by hand will start it, but a motor switch or timer can have a problem and the motor can start when spinning it over by hand too.

The capicator is cheap and easy to replace so if you are unable to diagnose the exact problem you could replace it and see what happens.  You can also disconnect the wires to the capicator and connect them together with a small wire  and then try to start the motor. It may be a little slow starting, but if it does start that would confirm you have a bad capicator.

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The motor spins freely on the floor but not when it is attached and running in the spin cycle.  I can turn it only about a half turn and then it stops.  I tested the capacitor with my multimeter at 200 ohms it starts out at infinity and then shows some random numbers and then ends back up at infinity.  Does that mean my capacitor is bad?  Once again, sorry my electrical skills are pathetic.

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  Spins freely on the floor by hand? or connected? With motor on floor, connect wiring harness connector and set to spin mode. Again, lid switch must be bypassed. Will motor start? If not but it is humming, spin shaft by hand to see if it will start.

 

Eric

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The weirdest thing just happened.  I put the motor back on and tried to jump the capacitor like Mike said.  When I tried to spin the motor the agitator moved.  I was excited because it actually did something instead of just sitting there.  Then I attached the capacitor back on and spun the motor and the machine started spinning!!  I then pushed the button in to stop it and then pulled it out again and it started spinning all by itself without me manually moving it!!  This is so weird.  What do I do now? The pump is still off to the side.


  Spins freely on the floor by hand? or connected? With motor on floor, connect wiring harness connector and set to spin mode. Again, lid switch must be bypassed. Will motor start? If not but it is humming, spin shaft by hand to see if it will start.

 

Eric

spins freely on floor by hand not connected

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  Unplug washer, disconnect terminals from capacitor without touching any exposed metal on the wire terminals or capacitor terminals. Remove the capacitor from it's holder without touching those terminals. Take an insulated handle screwdriver and place the metal end of the screwdriver across the terminals of the capacitor for a few seconds to discharge any voltage accumulated on it. Inspect it for any damage such as bulging, cracks or melting. Does it have a bad odor? The capacitor may be faulty but the only way to check it properly is with a meter that has a capacitor test function. If the capacitor looks/smells ok and the terminals aren't burnt nor are the wiring terminals, it's probably ok. I think you have a bad wiring connection or faulty wire in the harness somewhere. You need a tech who is competent in electrical troubleshooting to figure this out. You can try replacing the capacitor but if that doesn't solve the problem for good, you need to call a tech.

 

http://www.repairclinic.com/vwo4/PartDetail/Start-Capacitor/482156/2859?replacedManufacturerPartNumber=8572717

 

Eric

Edited by fairbank56

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