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cjhsa

Whirlpool Conquest Gold Icemaker Spewing Water

29 posts in this topic

Model:  GS6HAXKS01

S/N:  SL3457324

 

Last night we kept hearing funny noises in the house but couldn't locate the trouble until our son went to get some ice cream.  The entire freezer was coated in ice.   Being late, I shut the icemaker off and came back to it this AM.  I got MOST of the ice out, using a hair dryer and spatula (there was a big sheet on the bottom of the freezer).  Then I tried to "defrost" the icemaker as I've had troubles with it seizing up before, though never involving flooding).  It's back on now, and I'm waiting to see what happens.  

 

Thoughts?

 

 


A little background.  We had a power outage that lasted 26 hours before Christmas.  Since then the icemaker has made at least two full bins of ice.

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OK.... It just spat out the cubes.  There is water in the tray... we shall see what happens next.

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Yep, it knew you were posting to Appliantology and straightened its act up. Happens all the time, especially when I'm on a service call.

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And ok... what happened next is that there really wasn't any water in the ice cube tray... or very little.  Not sure if it's cracked/leaking of if it just didn't get filled.  I just warmed the water line inside the freezer with the blow dryer, which has worked before when it froze/seized and refused to fill.

 

Not thrilled about this - hate leaks.

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If it happens again, check to see if your ice make fill tube has been replaced with a new less-proned-to-freeze-up design. Then replace your water valve. A weeping valve can lead to ice build up. If that doesn't stop it, replace your ice maker or simply replace them both.

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And post your corrected model number.  

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GS6SHAXKS01 sorry.  I've posted it here before but couldn't find it as my search capability is limited.

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Most likely a damaged drive cam in the icemaker module.  You can remove the door that covers the icemaker to allow better access.  Remove the 1/4" screw to the wire harness cover at the rear/right of icemaker and remove cover.  You can then pull the icemaker out (be mindful of the emitter door on the left).  Remove the white square cover to the module and inspect the tabs that fasten the drive gear to the cam.  You may find one of these broken tabs rattling inside the module cover.  When this occurs, the contacts behind the drive gear become separated, and the icemaker can stall during the fill cycle.

 

If damage is found, it's more economically prudent to replace the icemaker, instead of just replacing the module.

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Hmm.  That doesn't look like my icemaker nor or my fridge.  My icemaker is mounted across the top front, and the bin seats on the inside of the freezer door.

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OK... I yanked mine out.  It does look like that one, or close enough.  The tabs on the cam look fine and are not at all loose. The sticker on the cover plate reads "IM #S 1-6 626636" and "LR 5010 04-01-99  2".

 

The cam is positioned with the "Do Not Rotate Manually" on top just like in the pics.  There are numbers on the cam "628358" and "A-40611-1M"  "9083".  I also see "40611-2" in raised letters on the molded cover plate.

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I just reinstalled the icemaker to see what happens, after letting it warm up and dry out for an hour.  But as I put it back in, this piece came out of the freezer.  What is it?  Where does it go?

 

1545670_10200532594157697_910479365_n.jp

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Well, it's been an hour and a half.  Nothing has happened.  There is no water in the tray.

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Part fits around the wires on the right side ...get down and look up under and behind the right side of the ice maker.....you will see a screw hole....that piece covers the area on the right , rear part.....................open it up and it installs from the rear.....slip forwards..........install screw..............Did you turn the optic switch to "ON" ???????........Have you tried the diagnostic tests for the ice maker?????................A faulty water valve will allow water to enter the fill tube, the one in the ceiling and then freeze.............In the olden days, there was a heater added to the fill tube as a replacement kit...............

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I don't see how that fits around the wires.... I don't think it's too important is it at this point?  Yes the optics switch is on.  As far as diagnostics go, I have no lights on the optics control panel at all.  Don't know if it's burned our or faulty.

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Hmm.  That doesn't look like my icemaker nor or my fridge.  My icemaker is mounted across the top front, and the bin seats on the inside of the freezer door.

 

 

You mean like this one?  

 

 

You're right, you want this icemaker:  http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Ice-Maker-Assembly/2198597/1016069

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Yes, it looks like that.  The fridge was built in August 2001, however, so I'm confused about the optics.  Mine doesn't light up at all.

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Another update.  I took the optics unit off the right side (the one with the LED).  I hit it with the blow dryer and reinstalled it.  Plugged fridge back in, waited a minute, opened the freezer, and the LED flashed THREE TIMES, twice.  So I closed the flap making sure not to block it and saw no light.  Then I realized the unit was in the OFF position, so I turned it on, closed the door, counted to 10, and checked it again.  Nothing.  No lights.

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So next I tried the 2001 optics diagnostics.  The first time I tried them, the LED came on steady for a few seconds, then went out.  I couldn't get it to do it - or anything - again.

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It can be tricky to determine the optics you have, but the Job Aid has a flow chart to help with this on page 5-1:  http://appliantology.org/files/file/266-whirlpool-optical-in-door-ice-maker-job-aid/

 

You'll need to upgrade your membership to download it:  http://apprentice.appliantology.org/

 

Follow that procedure and let us know what you find. 

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OK, I tried the "Free Way" just to see if I could make it work. Please let me know how I did.   I was an apprentice at one time a few years ago, which I thought was for a  year, apparently now it only lasts two months?

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 I was an apprentice at one time a few years ago, which I thought was for a  year, apparently now it only lasts two months?

 

The world, like its climate, is ever changing.  The only thing that stays the same yesterday, today, and forever is Jesus Christ.  Can I hear an "Amen?" 

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  1. Alright then.  I finally got a response from the LED by just unplugging the fridge and plugging it back in, waiting five seconds, and voila, I got a steady light for about 5-seconds, which means the first generation optics are working.  Next up, I jumpered T and H and got the icemaker to go through a cycle.  Removed the jumper (which I made myself out of twisted pair, I'm so proud) halfway through and let it finish the rotation.  Big CLICK! at about 12:00 and then it returned to 10:00 home.  No water fill.

So, I'm pretty sure this is a water supply issue, which makes sense since it flooded my freezer.  Guess I need a new valve?  Agree?  Got parts?

 

Also, the ice cream is as hard as a rock.

Edited by cjhsa

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That does not necessarily mean the ice maker is energizing the valve or your water line is clear.

As stated earlier, if your water line is clear, replace valve then icemaker or both (if ice maker is over 5 yeads old, replace it anyway) . You indicated the IM recently spit out ice. That would tend to rule out a motor problem (in most cases) as well as an optic problem.

Certified Tech is correct, that piece covers the wire connections between ice maker and fridge. It is attached by a screw on the right rear bottom of the icemaker support tray. It then wraps around the top right of the icemaker covering the exposed connections. I am not sure how you took out the icemaker without removing the screw that attaches it to the icemaker support tray.

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I figured out how that piece goes back in.  I just didn't see it fall off the first time I removed the ice maker.

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