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mrtrojanap7

Samsung RS265TDRS/XAA Evap Iced up

26 posts in this topic

Good evening all, this is my very first post. Also, this is my very first venture into appliance DIY repair. I'm an electrical engineer, studied comm systems - but I was also in construction, demolition, car repair, damn just about everything. What I'm trying to say is that I know my way around my tool box AND I have a general enough idea about how stuff works. Not at all near the level of expertise I've read on this forum though. So I'm hoping I'll be able to join my tinkering ability and your knowledge to fix my issue.

 

Excuse my ignorance if I don't call parts by the correct name, I'll try my best. Here we go...

 

The evaporator fan in my refridgerator began making noise about three days ago. It would come on here and there, not after an audible click or anything, I just noticed a rythmic sound that slowly stopped if I opened the door - kind of like slowing to a stop in a car. I started digging around and made my way around to taking off the inside panel and exposing the evaporator. It was partially covered in ice (just about the top left portion of it, where the metal evaporator tube goes towards the back of the fridge) and there was a sizable amount of ice on the inside panel. I took off all of the ice, put it all back together and it hasn't made a noise in over a day.

 

Now I'm not resting easy as I know something caused that ice to form, and it'll happen again. From what I have been able to gather so far is that I may need to replace the thermostat? or the computer board? I'd really like to trouble shoot this and figure it out so I don't buy a bunch of extra parts that I don't neccesarily need. Could you guys please aid me in troubleshooting this issue?

 

I work for the US Navy as a civilian, and unfortunately that has me going out of town quite often. I would like to fix this prior to my next trip, which is in a couple of weeks. Having my wife at ease when I leave really helps keep the peace... 

 

Thanks

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Your refrigerator does not have a thermostat. It is controlled by thermistors which are connected to the main board to manage temps. Many things can cause this fan to ice up. It is usually a warm air intrusion into the evap cover (the foam seal around the edges have stopped sealing) or its not completely defrosting.

If your model was built before 2007 there is an update in the evaporator cover to help keep the fan from icing up.

When A problem like this happens you can check to see if the evap cover is visually damaged. Any cracks or breaks can let warm air to leak into the evap compartment. These covers can also flex by themselves over time to cause an air leak.

So your options are to test the defrost thermistor and make sure it's within spec (you will need to download the fast track manual and use a multi meter to troubleshoot) or you can replace the evap cover w/fan and defrost sensor. You can also do it in stages.

I have heard of the evap fan icing up and just defrosting can fix the issue. This can happen from a door being left open.

Hope that helps a bit

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Applianceman, Thank you for the well written response. I'll check the cover for any obvious damage. Is it worth while to reinforce the insulation foam?

I plan on testing the defrost thermistor with a multimeter tomorrow. Thanks again for the input. Hopefully defrosting it will resolve the issue.

To elaborate a bit the ice had just started touching the fan, it looked to start on the upper left of the evaporator cover, on the refrigeration pipe (I think that's what is called)

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Fridge may not have a thermostat but it does have defrost limits which some refer to as thermostats. However Applianceman is correct in that the limit should not be your problem unless what you see is all frost instead of all ice.

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Reinforcing the cover won't do any good. Make sure you have the resistance chart for the thermistors and do all your testing at the board before you open the doors.

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I'll be subscribing as an apprentice tomorrow. i see the value in it and plan to save myself a good deal of money - all while learning something!

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Great plan! This website is well worth it!!!

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May not apply to this model, will have to verify on print, but some of the Samsungs have a thermal fuse, that is not resetable, has to be replaced.  It will be on the right side wrapped in white plastic, stuffed between the coils of evap.  This was the problem I had.  Get the print, locate the heater and see what they called it.  You can test it at the back of the unit at the board, without tearing into the evap compartment.  You will have to go in anyway, but it's eaiser to probe and trouble shoot from the board.  I'll look up the model number you gave, the number is real close to the one I worked on.   It had the thermal fuse. The first time I went in I had a bit of trouble finding it's location.  Good luck

 

The unit I worked on was a 267 lash.

Edited by curjones

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You're dead on Kohai - I found a decent enough parts diagram at AppliancePartsPros. It does in fact list a thermal fuse on the top right of evaporator assembly. Another question for you all, would it be worthwhile to replace the thermal fuse, and all sensors associated with the evaporator assembly (fixer sensor & temp sensor)?

Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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If the thermal fuse is good (which it most likely is), no need to replace.

You need to put your unit in diagnostic mode. This will tell you if your problem is a fan caused ice issue or a no defrost ice issue. Big difference on parts you change. The fast track manual will give you all the info you need

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The unit I was working on was Icing up the whole evap, When the fuse blew, the defrost heater would not work.  If you have the unit opened up to the evap, you can ohm out the fuse.  The fuses are cheap, and this unit was my Moms so I ordered two of them.  I would have one on hand if I owned one.  

The newer models, or other models have a thermostat device, that opens and closes.  On some prints they called them switches or sensors, don't recall.  

 

 What they call on the print  a sensor may very well  be just a thermistor, sensor, not a on off discrete device, like the old days.

 

I have only been in this one with the thermal fuse.    you can test at control board in back, power off unit, OHM between 7-9, at CN 70 connector.  If fuse is blown you wont get a reading .

 

Your unit may be shutting off, but since the heater is not coming on, it's just partially defrosting.   Listen well to the others here about making sure the cavity is sealed.

 

DA-4710148J was the substitute thermal fuse number part number,  research and confirm this.

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Looking at the print  on SAM.079 (complete manual) downloaded from this site.  Good luck keep us posted.  Like appliance man said if the fuse is good look at other things. 

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I'm confused now. You said your fan was making noise. Where did all this defrost failure come from. I stated it could be an incomplete defrost issue. This would mean the unit IS Defrosting, but not long enough caused by an out of spec thermistor. You need to first find out what type of issue you have. Is your whole evaporator frosted up or just around the van? I think we attacking two different issues cur.

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Of course it has a thermal fuse since it has a heater. That is a federal requirement.

The thermal fuse is the same as the defrost limit I mentioned above. And again, if you have All ice instead of All frost you can rule it out as your problem. Learning the difference between frost and ice will increase your diagnostic abilities.

Applianceman is correct, sounds like defrosting is happening, but is incomplete. Fresh food section Icing issues according to Samsung , are caused by the evap cover or drainage issues. If you have not noticed water in the fridge then probably not a drainage issue.

Edited by DurhamAppliance

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I'm confused now. You said your fan was making noise. Where did all this defrost failure come from. I stated it could be an incomplete defrost issue. This would mean the unit IS Defrosting, but not long enough caused by an out of spec thermistor. You need to first find out what type of issue you have. Is your whole evaporator frosted up or just around the van? I think we attacking two different issues cur.

The noise from my fan was what tipped me of something was wrong. That's what got me to start tinkering. There was no frost that I noticed on the evaporator assembly. The ice was most concentrated on the refrigeration pipe at the top left corner, facing the evaporator cover. Looked like it started to accumulate there and built up enough to let the fan start hitting it. Sorry if I want clear enough in previous posts, hope that explains it. Remember, I'm greener than green, do I apologize if I'm not explaining things correctly.

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Okay. Great. Have you downloaded the fast track yet? Once you have that you can test your thermistor. The incomplete defrost from the out of spec thermistor could be causing this. Once you confirm that with the multimeter, change it and then defrost fan assy.

If you want to replace everything it could be. Replace the defrost thermistor and the evap cover with fan.

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I gotta pick up a multimeter today. Tested my current one at work yesterday, I'm getting junk readings from it. Thanks for all the tips

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Your unit may be shutting off, but since the heater is not coming on, it's just partially defrosting.   Listen well to the others here about making sure the cavity is sealed.

 

 

Would not the description he initially provided suggest the heater is indeed coming on? 

 

 "It was partially covered in ice (just about the top left portion of it, where the metal evaporator tube goes towards the back of the fridge)"

 

 

You have to remember, in a fresh food section where there is warmer temps and more humidity compared to a freezer section,. intrusion of the surrounding air into the fresh food evaporator area causes ice build up {frozen water created by condensation = ice}.  So a bad or cracked evap cover is a big deal in the ff section.

Edited by DurhamAppliance

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Having this exact same problem.

Someone needs to start a recall Samsung fridge petition.

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There is a class action lawsuit going on... Not interested in that, just want to repair it

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I'm replacing the thermistor on the evaporator and then the cover.

We most likely have the same problem.

Edited by KCTBURY

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I'm pretty sure it's the thermistor also.  Doen't hurt to replace the cover.  If they sell the package together with the fan for a decent price, I"d probably go for that.  Samsung is the worst for parts and customer support.  Good Luck

 

Doc

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Okay. Great. Have you downloaded the fast track yet? Once you have that you can test your thermistor. The incomplete defrost from the out of spec thermistor could be causing this. Once you confirm that with the multimeter, change it and then defrost fan assy.

If you want to replace everything it could be. Replace the defrost thermistor and the evap cover with fan.

Got the fast track manual, got my multimeter. Saw the fast track manual diagram and got hesitant. Mind elaborating a bit more on which pins I have to test to troubleshoot the thermistor? The fast track manual only calls out a thermistor for heat release ice production...

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What fast track are you reading? If you are looking at the proper fast track, all sensor pin locations are noted on the picture of the board. The one you are looking for is located at CN40 entitled Sensors and Switches on the fast track board markup... F defr sensor pins 6-4 (blue to gray)

Edited by DurhamAppliance

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I was looking at RS265TD Fast Track R1. wrong one, i'll try again tonight after work. 

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