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jplloyd

Maytag LA612 transmission

18 posts in this topic

Hi,

 

I have a Maytag LA612 that has been smoking belts.  Following the descriptions in this forum (thanks!), I tracked it down to the transmission.  I've torn it apart following the instructions here: http://appliantology.org/topic/1044-maytag-la612/, and I definitely have the " dreaded frozen up Maytag agitator shaft."  I have the top half of the transmission off, and the insides are in great shape, but the agitator shaft is seized pretty good.  I there any hope for fixing it or source for parts?  

 

Most gratefully,

 

James

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Part number: W10172457

Part number: W10172457

$$$$$, but still better than any new washing machine on the market today.

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Thanks. Is this the same basic transmission? Part number: ap4373301

Part number: ap4373301

It seems to be a lot cheaper without the agitator parts, and is also listed as in stock.

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Yes, you may be able to use your old agitator if it's not stripped out where it attaches to the transmission shaft.

Edited by Scottthewolf

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I'm pretty sure the one that comes with the agitator assembly is so you can replace the older style transmission with the new orbital transmission, (they use a different agitator retention system, rubber o-ring on old helix transmission, 1/4" screw on orbital transmission). 

 

If yours already has the orbital transmission then the cheaper one should be all you need - I've never seen a Maytag strip out the agitator spline!

 

Since you said you have the top half of the transmission off - then you must not have the new orbital transmission in your washer, (there is no top half of the orbital transmission to take off.  Transmission case/body-top/bottom all one piece).

 

I've never tried to put an agitator from an old helix transmission on one of the newer orbital styles so I don't know if the spine is different or not.  You may be able to put the agitator retention o-ring from yours onto the new orbital transmission and use your agitator but again I don't know if this would work or not.

Edited by Budget Appliance Repair

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i think the agitator will fit but wont wash well because of the differences in the wash stroke between the 2 transmisions, the old one has a long stroke the new one has a short stroke

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That is correct, I completely forgot about the different agitator stroke profiles between the two transmissions!

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I knew there was a reason for the different transmissions, I just couldn't remember why.  Supringly, I worked for Maytag Factory Service for 12 years and never replaced a Dependable Care transmission. Replaced a few Atlantis, Performa, and a few Searcy washer transmissions though.

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If you already have it all apart, there is a good chance that if you used emory cloth and polished the agitator shaft and cleaned the upper case agitator shaft bushing are really good and oiled shaft and bushing area really good when reassembly you could get many more years service out of it.

 

You maybe able to purchase a new agitator shaft still, (I haven't looked to check availability), if the area at the top of the shaft where it seals in the main mounting stem seal kit is badly worn.

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I did get it apart as far as taking off the top of the transmission with the agitator shaft in place, but the shaft is so seized up that it won't turn at all, so I expect the shaft and/or bushing are probably galled beyond saving.  I did find a shaft available for about $75, but based on the parts diagram there doesn't appear to be a replaceable bushing in the transmission housing (or possibly even a bushing at all - does it just ride on an o-ring?).  I can't find the transmission housing anywhere.  I also couldn't quite figure out from the parts diagram how the shaft comes out.  It looks to me like I'd need to push out a press-fit cross-pin that goes through the gear and shaft and then remove some kind of retaining ring or clip from the bottom of the bushing, and then the shaft would come out from the top.  Since the shaft is so seized I'd probably have to use some serious force to then push it out.  I have access to a machine shop with a many-ton press, so I could get it out, but that kind of approach isn't a good idea unless you're really sure all the retaining pieces are out and you're really pushing in the right direction.  Does anybody know if I've got the procedure right and how the retaining ring at the bottom of the shaft comes out?  On the principle of the thing, I'd keep going and I could even go so far as to bore out the transmission housing and find or make a bushing.  It would be definitely be cool to have a washing machine with a cylinder job, but at some point the reality of the mounting laundry and my family's insistence on clean clothes will break me.

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The bushing is in the upper transmission housing and when it was available the complete upper housing with bushing was the only way to get it.  Most of the parts for these old helix transmissions are no longer available for quite a few years back now.

 

You're correct about how the shaft comes out, drive pin out of gear and shaft then comes out top.  The o-ring that is pictured at the top of the shaft isn't inside the housing, it's between the agitate shaft upper flange and the top of the upper transmission housing, (suppose to help keep any moisture from seeping down into transmission if upper agitator shaft seal on mounting stem and seal kit fails).

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i believe that pin is tapered, make sure you drive it out from the correct end  :)

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It's been way too long ago last time I had one of those transmissions opened up and from what BrntToast said I kind of thought I remembered that so check both ends and drive the pin from the small end, towards bigger end to remove.

 

From the description it appears it may not be a tapered pin but there are no pictures to know for sure.

  210183   Groov-pin, 1/4 X 1-1/4  no longer available.

 

If the pin is solid, (no hole thru the center - a rolled spring steel pin with a split down one side would have a hole all the way thru the center), then there is a chance it is tapered so check carefully before trying to drive it out, (because I think the tapered pins do have a grove down the side to help hold the pin in place once driven in).

Edited by Budget Appliance Repair

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So I gave in to the pile of laundry and went ahead with a new transmission - I installed it and now the machine agitates great, but doesn't spin. Any suggestions for what to check first?

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Do you know how to check the brake and clutch adjustment when you put on the transmission pulley?   When you turn the pulley one way it agitates and when it reverses it releases the brake and engages the clutch for spin while disengaging the agitater.  try to turn it  (the pulley) by hand and see if you can see it moving up while turning it counter clockwise ( I think that's right) no matter.  One way all remains the same and it agitates.  The other was it moves up by way of the treaded shaft.  Check it out and get back to us.

 

Doc

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I had the tub cover pushed down too far and the inner tub was stuck. Washing now! In the name of the science of forensic appliantology I may still try and get the old transmission apart...

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I was so glad when they changed over to the plastic tub cover, I always dreaded the porcelain on steel tub cover with the huge clamp that rusts in place.

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Good job, I forgot about that little tub top going down too far.  This jogs my memory and I do remember messing with it trying to get it not to rub during spin.  What a pain.  Thanks for the follow up.   Time for the celebration? :pint1: Have a cold or hot one of your choice.  You deserve it...

 

Doc

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