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jndddr

Maytag washer does not spin A9800

16 posts in this topic

Washer is 25 years old, but I'm a retired grandmother who is very attached to this machine.  I replaced the Lid Switch Assembly about five years ago because machine was dead, but no other problems (so I have limited DIY experience).

 

Machine made a metal-on-metal screeching noise during the spin cycle.  When I lifted the lid while it was spinning, the agitator stopped immediately, but the inner tub kept spinning while it slowed down.  Then it really got noisy and went off-balance.  The spin cycle finished because I held the outer tub in place so it stayed straight while it was spinning.  There were no leaks from the tub.  When it was empty, I was able to move and push the inner tub around inside the outer tub.  I removed the inner tub, and there was nothing in the outer tub except a little water.

 

Fixed the noise problem by replacing the inner tub clamping nut (part 211047) which had disintegrated.  Now the inner tub does not spin at all, but it agitates and drains normally, and there are still no leaks.  I took off the pump and drive belts, and they did not look bad, so I put them back on.  I think the drive belt might be loose and stretched out.

 

I watched the belts during the spin cycle, and the pump belt is moving but the drive belt is not moving.  The drive pulley spins a little then stops, and the spinning power unit (or orbital transmission) starts to move then stops.  If I lift the lid to make the spinning stop, the drive pulley moves a little bit.  It smells like rubber if it spins for a long time (more than 2 minutes).  I can turn both of the belts by hand.

 

Would it spin if the drive belt is replaced?  Is it a good idea to replace the pump belt also?  Should I check anything else?

 

Should the outer tub be completely empty after the spin cycle?  I only let it spin until the clothes weren't soaking wet, so could that be why not all of the water got drained out?

 

Grateful for this site and anybody's suggestions and/or advice.

 

:thanks:

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

We need the complete model number.

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We need the complete model number.

I'm so sorry, I couldn't edit my post, it's Maytag A9800, Serial 101216BS

New to the site, is it possible to update the title of my post with the correct model number?

Thank you for helping me.

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Might must be a very small reassembly mistake.

 

Did you take the complete outer tub top off and remove the spin basket when you replaced the tub nut?

 

If you did the above and even if you didn't but had the washer top up and leaned to hard on the top of the tub you might have either reinstalled it to far down or pressed it down when leaning on it.

 

You will need to slightly loosen the clamping ring and pull up on the top section of the outer tub.  Stick a pinky finger between under side of tub top and top of the spin basket edge and gently tap top down to this level all the way around.  Re-tighten tub clamping ring.

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Hi Willie,

 

Yes, I did take the complete outer tub top off, and I did remove the spin basket because I thought I might try to replace the mounting stem, as it looked kind of nasty.  I couldn't get the set screw out of the mounting stem, but I was afraid to use too much force. 

 

I hope it is a reassembly mistake, as it was spinning perfectly before I took it apart.  The distance between the tub top and the top of the spin basket edge is more than 3/4 inch, so it probably is too far down.  A small item could easily get in between the tubs now.

 

I am waiting for a helper to assist me, but most people either have no patience or lecture me on why I should buy a new machine  :argue: , so I need a few days to try the reassembly.  I will figure it out, and definitely report back.

 

:cheers: 

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If you mean that the top of the tub cover is 3/4" below the actually washer top then that is for sure the problem.

 

When you put a pinky finger spacing between the top of the spin basket and under side of tub cover the top of the tub cover will be only about 1/4" to 1/2" between washer top opening lip.

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Stick to your guns, Ma'am, this machine's a keeper.  All of the other Maytag Repairmen here would agree.  :thumbsup:

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Old skool maytags... Only way to roll!!!

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I promised to report back, and I am thrilled to say that my trusty washer now spins like a top.  I only needed to raise the level of the tub cover, as Budget Appliance Repair suggested.   :woohoo: 

I was somewhat prepared to replace the mounting stem and tub seal in the worst case, but it looks like I can avoid that job unless it starts to leak.   :thumbsup: 

I am also grateful for the enthusiastic comments about this vintage appliance.  Since I'm optimistically hoping to get some more usage out of this machine, I was wondering if it would be wise to invest more money for maintenance?

 

I would probably want to replace the belts and possibly stop a leak from the top left fill area.  The belts look almost new, but they are original and 25 years old.  The machine only leaks when it fills with hot water, and not with warm or cold.  The only other problem is that I need to manually add 2 gallons of water for a full fill on an extra large load, but that's not bothersome.  So far, I have spent $20 for the clamp nut and $10 for the spanner wrench.  Is there some guideline for determining whether it is worthwhile to make any more fixes?

 

Thank you so much for your excellent advice and encouragement!  It is so much fun to tell people that I fixed my washing machine myself - makes for very interesting conversation with this old broad.

:thanks:

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Good job and thanks for the followup!  

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It wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the belts.  As far as the leak goes, it's most likely the injector tube - the rubber insert hardens up over the years and doesn't expand fully to plug the air gap holes when filling and water leaks around the injector tube and out the air gap holes.

 

The reason it may only do it on hot is hot may be lower pressure, maybe inlet screen at water valve on hot slightly plugged or hot water just coming in at a lower pressure.

 

Need to verify if that is where the leak is coming from by removing front panel again and removing the to screws that hold the washer top down.  Then you can watch the injector area as it fills and make sure that is where the leak is coming from.

 

Here's the injector tube valve Part number: 216201

Part number: 216201

Edited by Budget Appliance Repair

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Concur with Brother Willie about replacing the water injector.  Inspect the tub to pump hose and clamps for any signs of leaking or corrosion, but only replace if absolutely necessary.  Inspect and clean the water inlet valve ports if necessary.  Your style Maytag's original fill hoses came with additional screen washers to help protect the inlet valve, so you should be ok.  Aside from that I'd say you're ready to do some laundry!

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  Your style Maytag's original fill hoses came with additional screen washers to help protect the inlet valve, so you should be ok.

i would hope with the age of the unit that the fill hoses have been replaced at least once

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i would hope with the age of the unit that the fill hoses have been replaced at least once

Its a maytag! You shouldn't have to replace nothin! Haha

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I replaced the pump and drive belts, both original parts.  The clothes spin out drier with the new belts.

 

But now the washer makes a lot of noise when it spins - louder with a fast spin speed and less loud with a slow spin speed.  The washer shakes but it does not move while it's spinning.

 

I had replaced the inner tub clamping nut a few weeks ago.  Should I re-tighten it, or does it just take a little while for the belts to break in?

 

The leak is coming from the injector area, and the hoses are original but not corroded.  I'll keep using cold water so I can postpone the repair for a little while.

 

Thanks to everyone for your encouraging responses.

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I had been running to the basement during every spin cycle because of the scary loud noise, even on a slow speed.  Today the washer went dead because the actuator/plunger got knocked out of place (i.e., disappeared from view & no contact with the lid) at the end of the spin cycle.  The machine then filled for the rinse, so I repositioned the lever and poked the plunger through the hole, and it worked again.

 

I removed both belts, and I might put the pump belt back on for a while and then try to add the drive belt.  The continuity tests on the fuse and the two switches on the lid switch assembly (part Part number: 22001682

Part number: 22001682
) gave good results.  Should I replace the parts under the lid switch assembly, and what parts are involved?

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