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LSN2000PW1 Whirlpool Ultimate Care II stops mid cycle, makes noise every few minutes

15 posts in this topic

The LSN2000PW1 washing machine stops mid cycle and does not restart. Instead it makes an electric sounding grinding noise every five minutes and the agitator tries to move back and forth. This noise and motion last about 20 seconds and then the washer sits stagnant until it happens again 5 minutes later. It is not the lid switch.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=It_bw6_emV4&feature=youtu.be


The youtube link is to a video of the washing machine while making the noise.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Check that drive coupler, Budrow-- Part number: AP3963893

Part number: AP3963893

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The plastic coupler pieces and the center isolator piece all look to be in good condition. The rubber isolator piece is not cracked. It does seem pretty pliable.

 

This problem does not happen with every load. It can go quite a few loads without a problem and then it will have a problem a few loads in a row. It is always at the same approximate place during the cycle (cool down).

 

 

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Sounds like the motor is overheating and its thermal limiter is tripping. That would fit the "sits idle for about 5 minutes and tries again" description. 

 

If I had to bet money, I'd say you have some gearing going bad in your transmission, seizes up and cause your motor to overheat. 

Edited by DanInKansas

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I replaced the clutch and gear case. Still not working correctly. I suspect the motor or timer now. How do I test to see which or if something else should be replaced? Since the problem is intermittent I'm thinking either a switch is going bad or a bad part of the windings.

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  You say it always happens at same spot during cool down. That's only in the permanent press cycle? Sounds like a timer problem to me.

 

Eric

 

Part number: AP3181958

Part number: AP3181958

Edited by fairbank56

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Next time it does it try changing the timer to spin or a regular wash cycle and see if the motor runs.  It could be the motor winding or the motor switch not working right for the slow speed.  This is a two speed motor I believe.  The regular speed could be ok and the slow speed acting up.  It does sound like the motor not starting, trying but no success.  Being it's permanent press only at the cool down area, that I believe is where the slow motor winding kicks in.  It also might be a bad connection at the connector block on the motor.  Since it only does it in that one spot and since you changed the transmission, I'd have to go with motor or timer.  Bad timer points could do it also.  Since the motor works on the other speed and the washer does too,  you need to look at the motor or timer.

 

Doc

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  This is a three speed motor. Operates in high and medium agitation during perm press just as it does in regular cycle. Slow speed is in delicates and hand washables.

 

Eric

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So what are you saying Eric?  You voting for the timer?

If the motor is 3 speed and uses the other speeds throughout other cycles and they seem to be working ok in all other places in the timers route then I'd have to vow for the timer as well.  If it was related to the motor you would think it would act up some where besides just one spot.

 

Doc

Edited by electro_doc

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Yes. We use the perm press cycle and that is the only cycle mode where I have caught the washer having this problem. I can't say for certain it doesn't happen anywhere else besides cool down within the cycle, but that is at least where it is happening first.

I have been able to advance the timer to spin and the washer spun fine. I've also been able to let the washer sit turned off for awhile and then come back later and restart at the same point in the cycle.

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  Spin in perm press cycle is in medium speed so if it's spinning ok then the motor and motor switch appear to be working fine.

 

Eric

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Today while taking out the new gearcase and re-installing the old, I inspected the motor and found that the connection for the white wire is burnt. In the image it is on the right. I am guessing it is unrelated because if the connection were broken the motor would not work at all. What is this wire for? Does it have anything to do with the lid switch?

 

About a year ago the lid switch broke in the closed position. When I tried to replace the switch I found parts of the wire harness melted so I just bypassed the switch. I had assumed at the time that the connection went bad over time and overheated because of the poor connection. Now I think it may be something connected to this burnt wire on the motor.

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-pnGy5VioRIREdSS1I1aGZiVDg/edit?usp=sharing

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That's the overload protector.  That opens when the motor is too hot or if it is drawing to many amps.  It could be you have something going on with the motor.  You need to check the amps while it is running.  Is the motor vibrating a lot or is it noisey?  A bad clutch can cause a lot of heat and sometimes shut the motor down due to over heating.  Your overload on the motor is definitly a sign of some load problem.  Could be a loose connection somewhere also causing the motor to overheat.  This overload kicking off is probably why your machine stops after it's been running for a while.  Could very well be you have a bad motor.

 

Doc

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  That is the neutral wire that goes from the thermal overload to the three motor run windings and to the white/black wire that connects neutral to the timer and buzzer. The gray wire from your lid switch connects to the other terminal on the thermal overload. Bad connections at the thermal overload are common. You need to replace that quick disconnect terminal on the end of the white wire. You should thoroughly clean the contact tab on the thermal overload as well as cut the white wire back and strip it til you find clean bright wire strands. If the wire isn't long enough, you should splice a new piece into the existing wire. If you keep cutting/stripping that wire back and cannot find clean bright wire strands, you should replace the motor. I doubt that this is the cause of your problem since the motor works fine in other cycles but this bad connection should be fixed.

 

Eric

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A couple of weeks ago I replaced the timer and replaced the wire connector that had the melted housing. The electrical connection was good, just melted plastic. The original problem has not returned.

Thank you for your time in helping me with these problems and for sending the parts I needed quickly.

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