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SD40-2

Coldstream commercial refrigerator: not cooling

11 posts in this topic

Anyone know anything about these? Got an older stainless steel, single door about 7 feet high - not cooling. Haven't been out to it yet but owner says no model number to be found. Never worked on anything like this. Any help appreciated!

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

No, but I've run into some commercial units in my days. Don't let it scare you. Typical diagnostic procedure for an all refrigerator. If you've worked on sub zero all refrigerator units you'll have a good idea how they work. If not they are usually pretty simple especially the older ones. Thermostat regulates temps, Compressor compresses, fan blows, evaporator evaporates, condenser cools, gaskets seal. . . You get the picture.

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Thanks very much for the quick reply AT! Never worked on all refrigerator units. Normally with fridge freezer combo units if neither is cooling, generally a sealed system repair is in order, so usually new unit required. But with fridge only how does that affect the diagnostic troubleshooting/flowchart? I guess what I'm asking is there a quick way to rule one way or another if a sealed system repair is required on fridge only units or should you be looking elsewhere?

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Look at the evap first thing if it's running, that will give you some good insight. If it's bare then you can proceed with your usual diagnostics. If it's got a ball of ice on it then you can start to diagnose a sealed system leak. Break it down step by step and take it from there. It's just a refrigerator, I wouldn't expect it to have a defrost system so there's not that much to it. Just take it on as a simplified unit and use your normal diagnostics.

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Found cooling down to about 38 degrees after condensor cleaned , looked like it had never been touched before. Good frost pattern on evap.  both fans running. Compressor seemed to be drawing a lot of  running current for a 1/3 hp - 7 amps.  Would have expected about 2 amps at 120 volts. Starts and runs OK, not noisy or hot to the touch. Compressor on way out maybe or slow leak....?  Everything else seemed ok other than leak on door seal. 

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7 amps seems high but that's where you'll loose me. I just don't know what it's supposed to run amperage wise. I'd think it would be around 2 or so as well but there I go thinking again. Would you change the compressor if the amperage is high and the box is running at 38 degrees with no other symptoms anyway?

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Compressor seemed to be drawing a lot of  running current for a 1/3 hp - 7 amps.  Would have expected about 2 amps at 120 volts. 

 

 

7 amps seems 

 

7 amps for a 1/3 hp compressor is WAY high!  The expected reading would be something less than 2 amps. Sealed system blockage, bad compressor...

 

Not familiar with this brand and model-- Is this a capillary tube or TXV system?

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Uses a 12 foot capillary tube.

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Never worked on a thermal expansion valve system. Would it give you a higher amperage reading?

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Model # RSCP24RL

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Hello SD40-2, recently my commercial refrigerator was also having similar kind of problem, then one of my friends suggested me to consult an HVACR technician for it. The technician inspected the refrigerator and told that the problem was with the evaporator coil. He repaired it and gave more helpful hints on how to take care of the refrigerator that will help to run a refrigerator efficiently.

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