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scottbrooks

Kenmore 110.229223100 - Washer - Won't Complet Cycle, Cuts Out

6 posts in this topic

Kenmore Model 110.22922100 - Stops during cycle and will not resume cycle unless unplugged and cooled down; agitates only at one speed despite moving selector between "delicate", "normal" and "heavy duty".  Sounds like struggling to run, is noisy when running and emits metallic smell.  About a year ago, I replaced drive motor and couplers because washer wouldn't run.  This didn't solve problem, but replacing capacitor did.  Has run flawlessly since.  Any idea on what this problem might be?  Transmission?  Thanks for any help or suggestions!

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Update: I removed the motor and pump assembly.  Motor shaft turns freely on both ends.  Couplers show no sign of wear.  Pump turned reasonably easily but had slight resistance.  No obstruction visible inside pump.  I turned the coupler that drives the tub and agitator; agitator turned with little resistance.  Tub also turned but would sometimes hit point where it didn't want to turn without applying considerable force.  If I manually moved the tub from inside the washer, it would free it up.  Any ideas on solution to problem?  Thanks.  Scott Brooks

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Is there anything between the basket and the tub? It may be the match for that stray sock you have laying around. Also, check around the motor and capacitor for broken wires. If you have something that measures electrical continuity, check the speed switch against it's chart on the tech sheet. The continuity of the switch contacts should behave according to the chart.

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Is there anything between the basket and the tub?

Thanks vee8power for your help. Am I correct that I'd have to remove the agitator to remove the tub from the outer basket?  I removed the covers from the agitator to get to the bolt that secures the agitator to the shaft but it looks like the the bolt head is sheared off (bolt head isn't in there, so I'm guessing this happened when it was manufactured?). I guess I could use a bolt extractor to get it out if needed?  I also removed the ring that goes around both the tub and basket and did not see any sock or other obstruction between the two.  I'm assuming obstruction would be on bottom?  Thanks again for your help,.  Scott Brooks

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Hello veepower8 - You were correct on the "stray sock" being the cause of the problem, so thanks again for your guidance.  Unfortunately, the problem persists. Here are the details:  I separated the inner tub/outer basket and found a stocking wrapped around the agitator assembly.  I noticed that the agitator dogs were broken so I replaced those and also the drive block while I had it apart.  .  I tried to run a cycle before completely reassembling washer; it filled fine but stopped agitating after about 30 seconds, then resumed a few minutes later.  I advanced the timer to rinse and it pumped out, but would not spin. Also noticed a loud clicking noise during agitation.  Any suggestions you can give me would be greatly appreciated. 

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PLEASE HELP!  Since last post, I have purchased and installed a new clutch and gearcase,  but washer still inoperative.  With new gearcase/clutch installed and lid switch bypassed, I attempted both spin and agitate in rinse cycle  (did not attempt to put water in machine).  Agitated briefly, stopped,  agitated briefly again, then stopped again.  Initially, would not spin at all only hummed then sounded like motor shut off.  Tried spin again while using hand to "push start" the tub - spun for a few seconds then stopped.  I then removed pump to see if that was problem.  Still would not agitate or spin. Note in earlier post - thanks very much to VEE8POWER - I found and removed a sock/stocking that was wrapped around the basket shaft but this did not resolve problem.  What are other potential causes?  Basket drive?  Timer? Capacitor?  Motor?  Note that I replaced the motor about a year ago but problem turned out to be the capacitor which I also replaced.  I also replaced the coupler assembly at that time and it is still in perfect condition.  When I disassembled the tub to remove the sock, I also replaced the drive block, but it appeared to be in fine shape and the tabs were intact.  One other note - I noticed that when turning coupler on the transmission clockwise for spin by hand (before installing it) that it was pretty stiff - much stiffer than the old transmission I removed. It moved easily when I turned it counterclockwise for agitate.   Also when I slid the new transmission and clutch into the basket drive, it became even harder to turn the coupler clockwise.   Not sure if this is normal or if this might indicate a problem with the new transmission or with the basket drive (not replaced).  I also noticed that the transmission came with a coupler attached and it doesn't seem like this is usually supplied, making me think this unit may have been sold previously and returned.  Bought it through Amazon, but the label shows the vendor as  . E. Sandberg and it came in an FSP box so I don't think this is a bait-and-switch rebuilt transmission.  I have the washer completely disassembled now, so can send photos of any component if it would help.  I'm desperately, so any and all help you can give would be appreciated.

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