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  • Upcoming Events

    • 30 March 2024 02:00 PM Until 03:00 PM
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      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in this workshop on all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This workshop is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      If you have a specific appliance problem you'd like us to talk about, post it here! We need a problem statement and a PDF of the tech sheet or schematic so we can all see it on screen share. If you have a PDF that isn't already in the File library here at Appliantology, send it to us by attaching it to the contact form. 
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, March 30 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

Kenmore 110.61502011


Betty Anne

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I have replaced the following parts:  thermal cut off fuse kit, high limit thermostat and operating thermostat.  Heating element tested good, still no heat.  What to do next?  Everything else seems fine,

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25 minutes ago, Betty Anne said:

  Everything else seems fine,

Since we know everything cannot be fine,  we have to know what else you checked and tested. 

 here's a few questions to start with :

Did you check the breaker? test for 240v at the outlet?  Check for 240v at the dryer block? At the element? 

Have you checked for heat using different settings?

btw,  you said the element tested good... how did you test it? 

Edited by DurhamAppliance
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Yes, checked the breaker, and for 240v outlet and element, all good there.  Brother in law has a multi meter:-)  Had the element checked at sears.  Tried in all settings, just nothing.  Dryer block?  Not sure what that is.  When I installed rhe thermal cut off fuse kit, it worked for a minute.  Put it all back together,  and it had stopped heating again.

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Ensure you have good air flow. Check all vents. Internal and external. 

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43 minutes ago, Betty Anne said:

Sipping a Yuengling now, kinda disgusted!

Come on!  You can do it... appliance repair takes patience... sounds like you are moving in the right direction... ie eliminating prime suspects.... that's progress!.... but not too many Yuenglings while working on a dryer! 

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MD Home Services

No heating problem? Check the timer. Someone give her a tech sheet or use the one in the dryer.

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check your fuses again... bad air flow may have caused another blown fuse.... remove venting from dryer while testing to save money from blowing fuses for right now. 

Also,  use the multimeter to find which leg isn't sending 120vac... then follow it back to find the problem 

Edited by DurhamAppliance
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But of course!  Had too many beers already this week!  Yes, airflow is perfect, took all that apart as well, checking for clumps of dog hair, lol.  Truly stumped.  Hence the beer.  Thought stimulator and bravery all in one glass...

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lol. 

it may be the timer but want to rule everything else out do to cost/value consideration

Edited by DurhamAppliance
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Yeah, was thinking that too.  It does actually run through a cycle and shut off, though.  Would a thermal fuse be a possibility?  The ppl at Sears said that it was responsible only  for turning the drum, but the part description says something else, related to overheating if I remember right.  The thing is turning, and there is air flow, so.... ?

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Put the timer on 60 minutes unplug dryer and look at the back of timer and you will see a Red wire terminal ( A ) and a Black wire   terminal ( C )   and check for continuity there if you don’t have any  Bad timer.

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MD Home Services

Do you have a tech sheet at the dryer? Timer is the last resort but they do go bad. I've replaced timer after everything else checked good. Of course, that's after checking timer and didn't ohm out. 

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Yeah, that would be the piece of paper tucked up inside where all the knobs are?  Yup, got that. will ask the brother in law to check that out with his fancy tool when I get out of the bar in about half an hour :-).   What should the reading be?

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Thank you for that!  Got busy cleaning the pool (I'm in FL)  will get back at it tomorrow after work!

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After seeing the part number for the timer I will bet it is that, that timer is shitty and always fail

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5 minutes ago, sh2sh2 said:

After seeing the part number for the timer I will bet it is that, that timer is shitty and always fail

You got that right brother:rolleyes:

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17 hours ago, Betty Anne said:

Thank you for that!  Got busy cleaning the pool (I'm in FL)  will get back at it tomorrow after work!

just watch out for gators..... uh... and...  pythons!

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Heh, not near the Everglades, else I'd have a shit ton of gator and snakeskin shoosies!  Will be home 6-ish to check that timer!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Heh, no I've just got a hundred things going on right now.  Thanks for the advice, timer it was!  installed it last night in no time, took longer to put the back panel on, lol!  How many women you know could live that long without a dryer?!  Now, got a problem with the garage door opener...  any takers?  For real. :-(

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