Jump to content
Click here to check out this guide

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Contact


DISCLOSURE: We may earn a commission when you use one of our coupons/links to make a purchase.
  • Upcoming Events

    • 27 April 2024 02:00 PM Until 03:00 PM
      5  
      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in this workshop on all things Appliantological. 
      We have a special session planned for this one. Instead of the usual Show 'n Tell on a technical topic, we're going to post tech sheets in the comments to this Calendar Event (scroll down to see what's posted so far) and ask specific questions that can only be answered by reading the tech sheet. If you at least try to answer the questions beforehand, you'll get a lot more out of it. The tech sheet and the questions are posted in the comments section below.
      Your mission, if you should choose to accept it, is to check out the questions for each one and try to answer them ahead of time. Then come to the Dojo to see how well you did! 
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, April 27 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

GE Profile Side by Side PCE23NHTCFSS not operating at all when power applied, only HRS light flashes


Bugsy1275

Recommended Posts

Hi, in short, do I need to replace the Fresh Food Damper as well?
My story so far:
While we were away on vacation our GE Fridge Model:PCE23NHTCFSS SNo.SL423552 failed.
We returned to a unit that when powered on there was no action from the fridge apart from the "HRS" light flashed on the temperature control panel in the fresh food section of the fridge.
I have a Video of HRS light flashing, if required but for a start here is a photo ---> Hrslight.jpg


Having a background in electronics and PCB repair I thought this may be a symptom of a failed power supply, having seen similar symptoms in other electronic equipment. So I removed the electronic control PCB WR55X10556 and as I suspected there was a TOPS24 offline DC switching module used to generate the 12V DC supply to the PCB, initially I thought this would be the fault but it appeared to be operating correctly and something on the PCB was causing it to fold back as it was drawing too much current.  On closer inspection an SMD resistor R12? (on what I would normally term the "solder side of the PCB as opposed to the component side) was found to be open circuit. photo ---> SolderSidePCB.jpg 

This was replaced with one of the correct value (220ohms)  and the PCB was reinstalled and when it did it all appeared to fire up ok, the compressor and fans started and the lights came on, for all of about 4 seconds, there was a crackling sound from the PCB and then it went back to the old symptom of only the HRS light flashing.  So removed the PCB and inspected it again.  Ahh U12, may be the culprit that may have been overloading the DC rail on the PCB. Set the board on the bench and supplied 12 Volt DC using our bench supply to the 5V regulator on the PCB and sure enough U12 started crackling and smoking.  Photo --->ComponentSidePCB.jpg 

Removed this IC and now all appeared happy and the PCB worked using its own DC supply. (Traced tracks on PCB and this IC U12 that is labeled 6287 appears to control the fresh food damper only.)  Refitted to fridge and the fridge appeared to fire up all ok.  Compressor works, lights work so set temperatures to -17 for freezer and 3 degrees C for fresh food and left for a period of time and the fridge started to become cold so all appeared to be operating ok.  Made the following adjustments knowing the damper would not be operating, set damper to about 1/2 way open, took a couple of paper towels and stuffed them into the channel between the freezer and the Fresh Food section and made a hole about the same size as my middle finger in the paper towels.  This unit has now been running fine for about a month, including generating ice and the Fresh Food section does not ice up and both parts maintain the temperature set ie -17 and 3.

I have checked the 4 wires to the Fresh Food damper and they measure 400 ohms across Pin 1&2 and 3&4 as per I understand they should.  The damper door is not broken off or jammed and is able to be moved with the amount of effort I would expect for a stepper motor.

Finally to my questions.
1.  From peoples experience, should I be replacing the Fresh Food damper as well as the main PCB?  From everything I have researched the tests I have done to date indicate the fresh food damper is operational and not the cause of the IC failure.  I would replace IC U12 (6287) and test the operation of the damper but it appears this IC is a custom IC.  The only information I am able to find on an 8 pin SMD IC labeled 6287 is a DC fan controller and I know for a fact the fresh food damper is a stepper motor.

2.  Is there is anyone who is able to provide me with the correct Technical Service Guide for my unit.  I have been using GE PUB# 31-9072 01/01, and this is very close and has helped me immensely but I would really like to have the correct guide for our model.

3.  While writing this information, I realised I did not have the information or photo of the resistor I replaced.  So I  removed the PCB from the fridge for the details and a photo, while doing this I noticed the replacement resistor is showing signs of getting very hot so I may have yet another problem with the fridge or it may be isolated to just another problem on the PCB.  Is anyone able to enlighten me?

4.  Did TechWarsVet or any other person work out the schematic for the control pcb.
see forum post -->  http://appliantology.org/topic/17368-hotpoint-fridge-hss25gfpj-ww/#comment-124284

If you have read to here I would like to thank you for your time for doing so.  If you have some information you are able to share that is able to assist me then I would be immensely grateful.

Kindest regards

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 7
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • Bugsy1275

    5

  • vee8power

    1

  • Koi Guy

    1

  • Captain Dunsel

    1

Ok I did post the photos in the body of the post when writing and they appeared in place but it looks like they did not upload so here are links to flickr to view them as I don't seem to be able to edit the post to include the links to the photos.

Hrslight.jpg

https://www.flickr.com/photos/143403647@N06/shares/x0n234

 

SolderSidePCB.jpg

https://www.flickr.com/photos/143403647@N06/shares/3Fqd21

 

ComponentSidePCB.jpg

https://www.flickr.com/photos/143403647@N06/shares/ponP6u

 

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a hell of a post! Thanks for the pictures. 

They show a burnt control board. You can order a new one here:

Part number: AP3891725

Part number: AP3891725

It sounds to me like you have narrowed it down to just this as your problem.

As for a service guide, You would have to upgrade your membership and someone here could find it for you and upload it. I think upgrading is a great idea for you. The DYI forum is more for DYIers to get help making their appliances work. The rest of the site has more information for someone with your knowledge, even if it's just a hobby.

Edited by vee8power
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi vee8power,

Thanks for reading my post and responding.  I now have a more confidence that I can replace the PCB and the new one will not fail prematurely. 

I followed your link for the part but checking, on their shipping page:

"

  • INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING

    AppliancePartsPros.com does not currently ship internationally."

Thanks again

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Captain Dunsel,

Thanks for your response.  They do not ship to Australia either.

Kindest regards

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...

Hi my thanks go out to vee8power and Captain Dunsel for reading my post and their comments. 

I purchased a replacement PCB and fitted it in July 2016.  I have checked it a couple of times since then and R12 no longer appears to be burning up and the fridge appears to be operating fine.

I would like to take this opportunity to thank the appliance guru for making this site and the forum available.

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very nice post. 

I looked at the model number and this uses an "international" board, presumably for use in other power supplies. I have never seen this particular failure on the common boards which has me wondering if it is related to the power source. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...