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KSRB22FK freezer defrosts frequently


Phil49

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That isn't a pic of the jazz board- that is an ADC... ?

I don't think this model has a jazz board...  

 

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There is many variables into diagnosis what is causing this issue. Like is the Evap. motor operating is Condenser Fan operating or is the compressor over heating or other possible issue such as are the doors closing property. etc.etc. Best do further investigator before deciding it the ADC Board is the issue.

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BrewHobbyTech

That's not a complete model number. The three most common things I'd be checking depending on your model would be the cold control/thermostat, relay/overload on the compressor, and the ADC board. 

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The complete model number is

KSRB22FKSS01, & I assume the SS01 refers to stainless steel.

In any case, when the temp went up to 40 degrees in the freezer, the compressor & fan were not on.

I turned the temp control to the coldest setting & nothing changed.

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BrewHobbyTech
1 hour ago, Phil49 said:

The complete model number is

KSRB22FKSS01, & I assume the SS01 refers to stainless steel.

In any case, when the temp went up to 40 degrees in the freezer, the compressor & fan were not on.

I turned the temp control to the coldest setting & nothing changed.

Was the fan in the freezer running? If it wasn't then I would go with a possible bad cold control or ADC board.   

 

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So this morning once again, the freezer temp was 50-60 degrees.

The freezer fan was on & the compressor was off.

I heard a clicking noise which sounded like an intermittent relay.

I rapped the bottom of the control box, & the compressor started.

My educated guess is that one of the soldered in relays in the defrost control board is intermittent.

Anyway, I ordered a board.

 

 

 

 

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BrewHobbyTech
1 hour ago, Phil49 said:

I heard a clicking noise which sounded like an intermittent relay.

I rapped the bottom of the control box, & the compressor started.

My educated guess is that one of the soldered in relays in the defrost control board is intermittent.

Anyway, I ordered a board.

 

 

 

 

Could be the ADC board but the cold control is also located in the control panel that you tapped on. As I mentioned before it could be either. A clicking relay would be a good clue though to which one is bad. It still could be the cold control though because I've had them ohm out good but fail under a load with the current from the compressor. Your evaporator and condenser fans don't draw much current, and could still function under just such a scenario, but it looks like you probably found the problem. 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

What should the resistance measurements be on the cold control when the ohmmeter is connected across the two terminals that are labeled cut in & cut out & sliding the switch from warmer to colder?

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1 hour ago, Phil49 said:

What should the resistance measurements be on the cold control when the ohmmeter is connected across the two terminals that are labeled cut in & cut out & sliding the switch from warmer to colder?

The cold control should read 0 ohms when closed(infinite when open)......sometimes it will ohm out good but will fail under a load scenario. I've mentioned this in the past.....one thing to look for in a bad or failing cold control is looking underneath the control and seeing (dark particles)......sure sign the control is bad or on its way out.......

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When the slider is moved from less cold to colder, what exactly are the lugs in the switch hooked up to?

i assumed that I would get varying resistance readings when going from cold to coldest.

 

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29 minutes ago, Phil49 said:

When the slider is moved from less cold to colder, what exactly are the lugs in the switch hooked up to?

i assumed that I would get varying resistance readings when going from cold to coldest.

 

Replacing the cold control is your best bet...........don't ask questions.......or I may have to try and answer them.......

 

......sob.......darn...f&*k............can't believe it........

 

........nobody listens to me..........EVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

OK...................hey if want to give me a call right now.......let me know, I'll help you out as best I can.....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I guess my question really is, when you adjust the slider position, how does it control the temp?

I understand that the thermostat sensor turns the compressor & fans off & on, but what does the slide adjustment actually do

circuit wise?

Thanks

 

 

 

 

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Turning the cold control puts pressure on the diaphragm preventing it from making contact till the temp gets warmer and the diaphragm deflects more. Cold controls can get moisture inside them or just wear out and begin to stick in the off position. Banging on the housing can free it up and allow it to start working again. Since your fan is running but the compressor is not then I would think that may you have a bad adc board. Your cold control only has incoming and out going power. If the power is getting to the adc board and to the fan but not the compressor it would seem your adc board is not switching properly.

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I would like to know approximately how many defrost cycles occur in a 24 hour period, for how many minutes per cycle, & how high does the freezer temp get to when in the defrost cycle.

Thank You.

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Here is an update on the defrost problem.

I R&R'd the ADC board, & it made no difference.

When the temp starts to go past

40 degrees, I move the cold control to one setting colder & the compressor comes on, & the freezer temp goes to -5 to -10 degrees. If I change the cold control position back to the middle position, it goes back in the defrost mode.  When I changed the control to the colder position, I just heard a click, & not fans or compressor was running.  I disconnected the AC & turned the power back on & it works.                 I did hear a clicking noise in the freezer behind the panel for the evaporator.

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Are you saying the defrost heater turns on when you turn the temp to 40? There is no set defrost times. The adc board monitors compressor run time, door openings and other stuff and plugs it all into an algorithm to determine how and when to defrost. By your latest description you described a sticking cold control. I leaned towards the adc board previously because you said the fan was running and compressor was off. I was thinking you had a bad  adc board because that should turn the compressor and the fans together. Do the fans and the compressor turn on And off together now. If so the you may have had 2 problems, a stuck relay and a sticking cold control. 

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Here  is what I think the problem is.

When I set the control to one position colder past the middle setting, everything seems to work normally.

When I set the control back to the middle setting, after awhile the freezer defrosts.

Its almost like there is a dead spot in the cold control.

Thanks.

 

 

 

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So this afternoon I replaced the cold control.  What a pain in the ass. This cold control has a sensor    wire that goes into the freezer.          I didn't know this until I removed the control panel & cold control switch.  I thought the sensor wire rapped around the duct housing, & removed this housing.   Unfortunately a small piece of styrofoam came off as well.            I then could see that the sensor wire actually entered the freezer.       I used double sided tape to reinstall the duct assembly.   I removed the ice maker, the back panel & side trim & ran the new sensor wire in its place after I reinstalled the plastic tubing on the new sensor wire.  After reinstalling everything, the problem was resolved.                     Unfortunately, all the self help videos to replace this cold control showed only the older side by side models that used the solid rod to manually operate the vent door flap.                                            Anyway, thanks for all your help.

 

 

 

 

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