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Roper clothes washer stuck humming - RTW4440VQ1


renfield

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I have a Roper RTW4440VQ1 washer that stopped working with a loud hum in the rinse cycle - basin full, no drain, no spin.

 

It's a Direct Drive system, so I'm not sure where to start / what to do next. I bailed out all the water from the basin, so I'm good to tip it over and get at the bottom. Point me in the right direction?

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  • renfield

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  • Mark F

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Look at the won't spin link, lid switch and motor coupling are two famous causes but because your is humming I would assume the switch is good. There are videos on how to dissemble it, don't go flipping it over! Sounds like you have a jam, I would look in the pump.

 

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Check for a sock in the drain pump, power it down, then detach the drain pump from the motor by removing the two clips and pulling it from the shaft... then, see if it will spin with no pump attached. 

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OK, I took the pump off - 

 

Pump is clear, and motor shaft spins freely with no pump attached.

 

Next? (I'm reading MarkF's link now)

5 minutes ago, Hiroshi said:

Check for a sock in the drain pump, power it down, then detach the drain pump from the motor by removing the two clips and pulling it from the shaft... then, see if it will spin with no pump attached. 

 

6 minutes ago, Mark F said:

Look at the won't spin link, lid switch and motor coupling are two famous causes but because your is humming I would assume the switch is good. There are videos on how to dissemble it, don't go flipping it over! Sounds like you have a jam, I would look in the pump.

 

 

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Hoses are not clogged. Lid switch works since it hums when assembled. Pump was clear. Motor shaft spins freely.

 

I am not sure what to check next.

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The shaft spins freely with the motor detached from the tramsission? Or is it still mounted?

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ok, because I can't wait.

 I connected the lid switch with the cabinet off. I closed the switch. The basin spins. I let off the switch - it hums. If I grab the agitator and give it a whirl, it works.

Then I did this a few times, and now it will mostly repeatedly spin when I trigger the switch. It's the mostly that concerns me.

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Is there anything stuck between the inner and outer tub? I assume you know how to take it apart now.

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1 minute ago, Hiroshi said:

The shaft spins freely with the motor detached from the tramsission? Or is it still mounted?

Transmission mounted, only thing detached was the pump, so that I could turn the motor shaft end.

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I am thinking you may have the very uncommon "double-phasing " timer, or the start capacitor in the motor start circuit is bad.

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Is there a black cylinder mounted to the side of the motor? it is also mounted on the back panel under the water inlet valve on some models

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Just now, Hiroshi said:

I am thinking you may have the very uncommon "double-phasing " timer, or the start capacitor in the motor start circuit is bad.

How can I confirm the "double-phasing timer"?

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If the capacitor is bad, the motor will not have the initial torque to get the rotor moving...

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1 minute ago, Hiroshi said:

If the capacitor is bad, the motor will not have the initial torque to get the rotor moving...

There is a capacitor (black cylinder) mounted on the back wall of the washer off to the right side of the basin.

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OK. Your post about the basket spinning intermittently just came through... When you let it "hum" is the motor spinning? If it is spinning, look above the transmission to see if the clutch is spinning...

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We need to find what is exactly "humming." Because the motor should not be energized with the lid switch released.

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1 minute ago, Hiroshi said:

OK. Your post about the basket spinning intermittently just came through... When you let it "hum" is the motor spinning? If it is spinning, look above the transmission to see if the clutch is spinning...

I do not know. I can't get it to repeat the fault now. It starts every time I try now.

There is no humming with the lid switch released. Before the fault was, it was humming with the lid down, rather than engaging the basin. Now I can't get it to fail.

 

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Start it to spinning, then grab the basket. If it stops right away, then you likely have a worn and slipping spin clutch.

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1 minute ago, Hiroshi said:

Start it to spinning, then grab the basket. If it stops right away, then you likely have a worn and slipping spin clutch.

Yes, I can stop it by grabbing the basin one handed. Clutch?

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Once you remove the agitator, the transmission is held on by three 1/2 inch bolts... once those are removed you can tip the unit back and slide the transmission shaft out of the basket drive and expose the clutch. I tend to put the transmission over a bucket, so it will sit still and flatly while you fiddle with the "c" clip and shepherd's crook pin that hold the clutch to the transmission shaft. If there is a bunch of nasty black residue in the clutch housing, it will be trans fluid. 

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