KSRG25FKSS15 KITCHENAID FRIDGE warm,changed relay and overload and dead

[pluto459]

Thanks in advance. I watched the video on what to change when the unit is blowing warm. I opened the back and the evap fan was running.  I thought that if I jumped the relay that it would start. Ihave 2 red wires and one green.  One red to overload and one to top left of relay.  I put a wire around both reds and plugged in and heard a pop and flash from under, near compressor.  THE evap fan then stopped running.  I see no fuse to reset or replace.

I bought the new relay and overload and installed and nothing happens now. Evap still dead.  DID I KILL THE UNIT?

[Hiroshi]

You definitely thought wrong! Did you reset the circuit breaker?

[Hiroshi]

NOTE: Take that jumper OFF of the machine before throwing the circuit breaker and blowing the thing AGAIN.

[pluto459]

It never blew the circuit breaker.  The light on the inside was still on.   Just the evap fan stopped running.  

 

[Hiroshi]

I am not sure where to start...    

The next place to look is to see what was damaged by dead shorting the compressor circuit- i would guess the cold control took a whollop...?

 

 

[pluto459]

Where is that located?  That would cause the evap fan to stop running?

 

 

 

[Anytime Nick]

12 minutes ago, pluto459 said:

Where is that located?  That would cause the evap fan to stop running?

 

 

 

It's located in the control housing at the top of the fresh food section. Test it for continuity. I would also take a good look at the board sitting next to it. 

[Hiroshi]

You need to buy a multi-meter... they are cheap. You will need it in order to test anything. Part number: DM10

[pluto459]

Thanks for the help.  So I could rest bards. Replace and spend close to what a new one would cost. Already wasted 60 on new relay I can't return so not sure worth chasing after. Thanks and anyone want a free fridge let me know. 

[Hiroshi]

Holy Logic Vortex, Batman!

[pluto459]

Took a simple relay fix to ruining the boards. Guess meant to be as I never liked this fridge anyway.

[pluto459]

6 hours ago, Anytime Nick said:

It's located in the control housing at the top of the fresh food section. Test it for continuity. I would also take a good look at the board sitting next to it. 

any detailed info on location? I looked and didnt see any openings.

After looking at new ones and seeing how crappy and flimsy they are it might be worth it to fix this one.  Any help is appreciated.

 

[Anytime Nick]

Top of the refrigerator, where the control knobs are. You'll need to pry the faceplate off the front with a screwdriver or similar. Behind it are two 1/4" screws, and two more are on the backside of the housing, on the ceiling of the refrigerator. 

[pluto459]

see your in texas lol drive the 1000 mi to houston and I will pay you to fix lol

thanks again for the help

[pluto459]

29 minutes ago, Anytime Nick said:

Top of the refrigerator, where the control knobs are. You'll need to pry the faceplate off the front with a screwdriver or similar. Behind it are two 1/4" screws, and two more are on the backside of the housing, on the ceiling of the refrigerator. 

http://www.partselect.com/Models/KSRG25FKSS15/Sections/CONTROL-PARTS/?ModelID=657597&ModelNum=KSRG25FKSS15&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=3&Selected=MLKM0I8T&Position=3&mfg=Whirlpool&Type=Refrigerator&Mark=3

 

I just see the defrost board in diagram.  I meant to say the condenser fan on the bottom by the compressor stopped working after the jumper incident.

[Anytime Nick]

To the left of the board is the cold control/ thermostat. It's number 5 in the diagram. 

 

The condenser fan (and evap fan) only runs when the compressor is running. The compressor only runs when the thermostat is closed. 

Edited November 1, 2016 by Anytime Nick

[pluto459]

so before I jumped it the fan on the bottom was running, after the relay jump that fan stopped.  relay and overload are new and fan still not running.  sounds like i blew the control board?

[Anytime Nick]

But the compressor is also / still not running, correct? It wouldn't be surprising if you at least blew out the thermostat. That's where you need to start. Do you have a multimeter? 

[pluto459]

I didnt hear it on and didnt feel anything. I have the multimeter out now

 

[Anytime Nick]

After unplugging the refrigerator, you need to check the thermostat for continuity. Pull the knobs out,  pry the faceplate off and remove the 4 screws. Panel will drop down and you can access it. 

[pluto459]

OK got it open. What leads will i test for continuity? I did hear a clicking noise when I first opened the door, was still plugged in.

[pluto459]

ok tested the thermostat and read 000

pulled out the control board and burned on back  Part is $200-350 depending where i order it from.  My question is if I replace this and the new relay and overload, do you think will work?

[Hiroshi]

That is the Adaptive Defrost Control.  WPW10366605

You can get it rebuilt by Corecentric Solutions for $120 bucks with a one year warranty...

http://www.corecentricsolutions.com/published/allbrandsappliancepartsrepair

 

 

[pluto459]

thanks, found in online 168 and I am in Houston, so tons of parts places. Paid 30 more then ordering it as I wanted my fridge back lol. THanks for the help. Plugged new one in and it is running. Will wait and see if it cools off.

[Hiroshi]

Rock and Roll, glad to hear it!