Jump to content
Click here to check out this guide

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Contact


DISCLOSURE: We may earn a commission when you use one of our coupons/links to make a purchase.
  • Upcoming Events

    • 27 April 2024 02:00 PM Until 03:00 PM
      1  
      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in this workshop on all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This workshop is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      If you have a specific appliance problem you'd like us to talk about, post it here! We need a problem statement and a PDF of the tech sheet or schematic so we can all see it on screen share. If you have a PDF that isn't already in the File library here at Appliantology, send it to us by attaching it to the contact form. 
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, April 27 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

GE DPSE810GG0WT Dryer Intermittent No Heat


ndzied1

Recommended Posts

I have a GE Profile DPSE810GG0WT Gas Dryer with an intermittent no heat problem.

I have continuity checked the thermostats which seem fine and the resistance on the thermistors matches the listing on the schematic as well.

Flame sensor and coils looked good as well but I found some reports of coils checking fine when cold but failing when they heat up.  So I replaced the coils and for good measure really cleaned out the exhaust.

The first load dried fine but when I go to dry another I get no heat or the heat drops out shortly after starting.

When I watch the operation I see a yellow glow I believe is the igniter that stays on way longer than I think it should.  If it cools all the way down, the yellow glow is on for about 10-15 seconds and then with a mirror, I can see the blue gas flame.  

I'm going for the flame sensor next but looking for confirmation.  Only other thing is the gas valve which is much more expensive...

Thanks,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 6
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • ndzied1

    3

  • Hiroshi

    3

  • Budget Appliance Repair

    1

You need gas solenoid coils... they mount on top of the gas valve. Use part # 5303931775 and replace both coils being careful not to lose the steel sleeve that goes on the shaft of the booster/holding coil side of the valve.

https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/RepairHelpVideoLayer?videoIdCSV=685%2c141%2c3248

Follow the video, but change BOTH of the coils.

Edited by Hiroshi
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you Hiroshi.  I mentioned above that I have already changed both coils.  That was my first thought.  The new and old ones had the same resistance but I changed them with new anyway. I'm thinking of checking the flame sensor by putting it near a propane torch flame to see if it changes state properly after it has heated up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just wondering.  If it was short cycling, would the igniter stay on for 5 minutes without the gas valve opening?  That is what I am seeing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the flame sensor is failing to open then the ignitor will stay on till the unit turns off and gas valve will never open - the process of the flame sensor detecting the flame and opening it's contacts removes the ignitor from the circuit and allows the secondary coil to open and gas to flow and hit hot ignitor to light flame.

You can pull the two wires that go to the flame sensor off the sensor and pull then to the front where you can access them, hook them together and start the dryer.   Once the ingnitor is glowing for about 12 seconds, pull the two wires apart and the flame should ignite and burn until the cycling t-stat is satisfied or it short cycles on a hi-limit from possibly bad air flow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Flame sensor is a continuity test, remove one of the leads and test it that way too... If you don't hear the "clack" of the valve opening the rest of the way and it has new coils, you've got it in a corner.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...