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70chevelless

Kitchen Aid built in oven blowing thermal fuse

22 posts in this topic

Hi,

  We have a Kitchen Aid Superba built in electric oven Model # KEBS147dwh7. I bought this oven new in 1999. The problem is that when we use the self clean the Thermal Fuse blows. Here is what happens it works fine while it is cleaning once the cleaning is done and we go to use it no heat. This problem does not happen all the time I would say since we had it we have used the self clean 7 times and I have had to change the fuse 3 times. I checked the Temp. probe and the ohms reading was 1098 at room temp. Then I set-ted the oven at 200deg. and took a reading it was 1398. The only other part I have changed is the cooling fan on top. But this problem started before that went and it's done it since. Is there anyone who has had this problem and could help me? or does anyone know of something I should check? I emailed Kitchen Aid to see if there was an upgrade to this part they said no. Anyway any and all help would be greatly appreciated!   Thank you  

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

About the only thing I could suggest is to not use the self clean cycle or keep a pile of these fuses on hand......they do suggest to not set the clean for more than two hours, how long do you set it for????  Bad design on these ovens......assuming you have pleaty of air circulation around the unit...

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Hi Pegi,

  This past Saturday was the last time we used it. I just asked my mother how long it was on for & she said two and a half hours. I guess she said that this is what it is set for. She just presses the self clean and lets it do its thing which is two and a half hours. Yes there is good air circulation around the unit. Well then I guess this is why Kitchen Aid sent the email they did!. You would think they would come out with a better system. Well then I'm going to take your advice and keep one on hand as it always happens on the weekend plus no one around here has them in stock. I'm also going to look into the owners manual and see how you can set it for less time. If I'm reading your reply right there must be a way to do this. I bought this oven for her for Christmas in 1999 as she is handicapped and loves to cook & bake. It's to bad that you pay so much for this stuff and it's junk the one it replaced was the original to the house 1958 GE and that never gave her trouble. Well Thank you for your help I really appreciate it. 

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70Chevy,  There was a service flash out on this model that pertained to blowing the thermal fuse.  Flash 22-702,  had a kit that included door gasket, glass, blower assy. and thermo-disk with all the necessary brackets and instructions.  The serial number on the units affected were xjo1 through xj48.  Don't know if your oven falls into this catagory or not.  The condition was different than what you are experiencing.  The therm fuse would blow because heat was escaping from the top of the door and pulled into the blower fan across the therm fuse.   It almost sounds like your oven could of used this kit.  If the serial numbers match,  I would call them again and inquire about it.  Last part number I had for that kit was 814531...Ron

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Good morning,

  Yes thank you Ron and Samurai repair man!. I checked out that link and emailed them the question to see if this would solve the problem. I can see how the heat from the door could be sucked back in to the blower as it runs in reverse to pull the air down the back & out the bottom except for that pipe that leads out the front and picks up air through an elbow from the back of the fan. Now I have to ask a question it may sound stupid but that's how I learn! What if I were to block those holes on top of the door and let the air escape through the bottom hole of the door? Could this work or would it cause damage? But if I get a response from repair clinic and they say this will fix it I'll get that. I just don't see how those parts are going to help!. Forget about KitchenAid they won't give me any answers they just keep saying thank you for writing to us.

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firts off,DO NOT plug any air holes in the grille of the unit as this will make your problems worse,secondly, i believe the service bulletin that ron has eluded to is a differnt problem all together. when your unit fails,can you still program the oven to bake,but the elements just don't come on? when you repair it are you changing a thermo disc at the rear of the oven?  the bulletin was to adress the thermal fuse(not the disc) and when this occurs,the entire oven goes down,display and all- and the component which opens is located in the front behind the control panel- there have been many of the disc failures occur- i usually install part #4452223  which is a 130 degree celcius stat and relocate it to the left of the convection fan shaft so the heat escaping around the shaft does not directly affect it,while unit is out-ensure that the very bottom metal panel is not bent upward as this space between the oven bottom and the panel is a sort of duct in which air is drawn from and expelled through the holes in the grill that you plan to block-this air flow is crucial. also ensure that the space under the oven bottom is open to the finish piece,and if necessary provide a source for air inside the cabinets.  if you reduce your cleaning time below 2 1/2 hrs,it will be ineffective, this is the MINIMUM clean time-if anything you should increase it as you will allow a more complete clean cycle,that includes a cool down period, this is preprogrammed into controller.

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Kdog

  Yes your right when the unit fails you can still set it but it just stays on low with no heat in the oven. Also that is the part number I replaced this is the 4th one. You call it a disc?. I just put the new one in yesterday and it's working fine again. The bottom of the oven is not bent and we get good heat through the bottom and top vent. You say you put your to the left of the convection fan shaft when you say this I assume your looking at the back because ours is to the left of the shaft!. So then I take it this is just a design flaw nothing can be done about? 

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the problem you are experiencing is related to air flow around the unit,some other components on the oven you can check are your door hinges-door should not open beyond 90 degrees,and general condition of your door gasket.  since every installation is unique,you may have to make some modifications to your cabinetry . i serviced one of these a couple of months back at my service mgr's request as we have now replaced 5 of these,and like you,the guy thought there was some sort of design flaw- nevertheless,i was to go see what i could find. what i discovered was he had an older home that he had done many renovations to and had chosen a nice spot near a corner and patio door to install this oven(double k/a wall oven). adjacent to the oven was another nook where he installed his fridge,and above,a b/i microwave,being an older home,there was no room behind these units and installation was extremely tight to say the least. i proceeded to replace yet another thermo-disc,checked everything over and verified that all was functioning well and went over the installation with the owner. after much explaination,we theorized that the unit obviously didn't have enough air flow around it to dissipate the heat generated during clean. he was willing to try to improve that and we devised a plan where he would cut a square hole in the cabinet between his oven and fridge and install a return air grille into this hole- above the oven in the space between oven/microwave there was a space of approx 6 inces- another hole was cut in the top of the cabinet,and the front of the space between-he then installed a small blower motor which exhausted air outward through the front of cabinet and a grille installed over this hole as well. now when he sets his unit onto clean,he turns on this fav which draws air from the adjacent space where the fridge is across the oven and out the top of the cabinet- i have called him several times since and he has asked me to stop calling him to check on unit as this has clearly solved the problem of the failing disc. i guess it boils down to what you consider the worst of the 2 evils- pull oven out and change a disc every so often,or make changes to your kitchen cabinetry to improve air flow- to him this was worth it-to me, i have no problem changing a disc. the point here is that although it is adverised these units require no clearance,in reality,they do require some sort of air flow.

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Kdog

 The door gasket is as hard as a rock on the bottom and about 1/4 of an inch up the sides?. About the space the house was built with a built in oven. I took the measurement's they are as follows. If your looking at the front of the oven I have 24inches on the left side 3inches on the right side and 4inches in the rear and 5inches on top. I don't know if this is enough but I would think it would be?. As far as putting in some kind of vent I'd rather just change the disk as Ive been looking at the price of the exhaust motor and piping then the door to the outside and it would be more than just to change the disc. I have a stupid question but what else is new! Why couldn't I just by another exhaust fan an original one like the one on top and put it down below to help circulate more air through the oven wire it to the top one so they both come on? Or I'll just have to order a few of them disc to keep on hand.  

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ive done a few of the kits ron is talking about

you have to be REALLY careful with the serial number cause you may buy parts you dont have to. the full kit like Ron said is a new thermal fuse, piece of glass for the oven door, door gasket, door hinges, a new cavity fan (i think it may be higher rpm), and new brackets to mount the fan. the brackets' purpose is to move the fan back about an inch which will blow more air on the rear of the wall oven and keep higher airflow through the whole cabinet.

youre gonna have to talk to your parts guy real nice and get him to do some digging for you to see what  "revision" your wall oven is by looking up model/serial numbers and required kit.

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Yes I sent an email to repair clinic.com to ask them about this kit. They said it was for that problem but for me to email Whirlpool which I guess owns KithenAid to find out if this kit would be for my oven. So I think I'm going to do that and see. As I already emailed KitchenAid and they didn't want to know nothing! Thank's for the reply!     

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i have installed many of these "blower kits" over the last 6 years and the kits consist of inner door glasses and brackets that angle the middle glass panel outward,door hinge stiffeners,new door gasket,new blower,and a 130 degree thermo-disc.the kit is really not that expensive when you compare it to all the individual parts. when you install this kit,some of the units do not require the glass in the door changed as the factory did a running production change- same-o for the blower,the serial ranges are explained in the kits documents.the idea is to reduce the amount of heat that can escape from the top oven door area,which can then be drawn into the air flow,and if stagnated at all,cause opening of the fuse,however,it has been my experience that when this effect is present,it will cause the inline fuse to the control to open,thereby disabling the units control board/display etc.- but when the disc on the back opens- unit still accepts all command functions but fails to heat.

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Well the inner glass on this oven already angles outward. I changed the blower about a month ago. So the only thing I think I should do is order a new gasket for the door. I just can't believe that there is not enough air flow around this oven. I only wish KitchenAid would admit to a problem with this oven!. I'll just replace the door gasket (Special order) and stock up on some discs.  

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Pegi,

   Thank you for that my oven falls under that. The inner glass is already angled. There is a heat shield on top and I changed the blower a month ago. So now my question is on that bulletin it says hot air escaping from the top of the oven back into the oven if I'm reading it right. So could this mean replacing the door gasket? I really don't see anything in that kit that I did not replace except for the door gasket. Unless I'm missing something?    

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Seems like it is worth a try??

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also included in the kits are some l shaped spacers that mount on the face of the oven door flange under the area where the hinge receivers are mounted-this tightens the top of the oven door when in the closed position,also there are some rather thick metal pieces that you screw on to the outer wrapper of the oven at the bottom front sides to stiffen the entire side panel,some units already had these installed at the factory- there were several running changes on them,and it's very difficult to know for sure if your unit has them unless you can identify the parts.

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Kdog

  Sorry for all these questions and Thank you to all. I don't know if this tells anything but I put a dollar bill between the door and the gasket and it slide out very easy both on top and sides. Does this tell anything? One other thing I was going to order new hinges a gasket & another one of them disk (Just in case) but the price is just a few dollars cheaper than that kit 81453. Would you suggest ordering the kit instead? as the only parts that I'm not getting in the kit are the hinges! thank's

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Chevy,  go for the kit..should be the one I posted at the beginning of this deal...Ron

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Ron

  I ordered the kit yesterday from repairclinic.com They are going to send me the parts that are in stock. The rest have to be special ordered. I figure if nothing else I'll have extra parts on hand. I only hope that the manual that comes with it will explain how to install the shims since I have never done that! Anyway for the amount of parts you get it really is cheaper to go this way. Unless Kitchen Aid would pay for it but from what I have been reading on the net GOOD LUCK! So I would like to take this opportunity to THANK YOU ALL FOR REPLYING I have really learned a lot. Thanks    

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