Check out our online tech training courses at Master Samurai Tech…

Click here to check out our structured, online appliance repair training courses for rookies and experienced techs.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Stay connected with us...

Samurai on Facebook - become a fan today! Sign up for our free newsletter and keep up with all things Appliantology. Subscribe to our YouTube channel for lots of appliance repair tips and help! Follow the Samurai on Twitter and get timely morsels of Appliantological Wisdom! Subscribe to our MST Radio podcast to learn secrets of the trade.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
max4677

LG WM0642HW - Squealing towards end of cycle

17 posts in this topic

I have an LG washer (pretty sure it is a WM0642HW) that has developed a squealing/squeaking noise as shown in this video I found on Youtube: 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0kWI7XLKOnU

The noise isn't reproduced when it is dry.  

I heard it do it once and then was silent for the next few loads.  Now it seems to do it more consistently.  I'm guessing it has something to do with the door boot seal and found this repair video at appliancepartspros.com (he shows how to use a screwdriver and locking pliers instead of that rather expensive tool for the springs like the video at repairclinic):

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/lg-gasket-4986er0006b-ap4439730.html#videol

In November 2016, I replaced the rotor assembly and it was trouble free until about a month or so ago.  The bearing appeared to be in good shape at the time and there was no rust or water visible in the area at the time of the repair.  The rotor was replaced due to the nylon bushing thing in the middle being worn down bad enough that the drum would not spin under any load via the motor.

Can the existing seal be lubricated in some way or does it have to be replaced?  Also, crud is constantly getting in the three slots and single hole in the bottom of the boot seal.  I try my best to keep it clear by pulling out the fuzz and not let as much as possible get pushed in.  Are there any tips to make that easier?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

If the noise occurs during the spin cycle with heavy/wet laundry in the tub (towels/denims)...likely Inner Drum failed.

Usually a cracked bearing support.

Common symptoms...

Squeal/squeak noise

Burning rubber odor

Rubber shavings (gray) deposited in door gasket and/or on clothing

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It only happens during the last minute or so when the drum is turning, but very slowly.  At speed during spin cycle the sound is not present.  In the Youtube vid, When the drum is spinning at a certain speed, the squeal briefly stops until it slows down again.  The hard to understand part is that it doesn't do it at any other part of the cycle (such as the slow periods when it just does a few revolutions one way and then reverses).  

1.  When it happens it doesn't seem to care about load size.  For example, yesterday I washed two reusable cloth diapers (fantastic cleaning rags) and about 10 iRobot Braava jet cloths and it made the near end of run squeaking.

2. Haven't noticed odor nor has anyone else told me of one.

3. Haven't seen shaving on clothing or in the door gasket, just the aforementioned lint like stuff that loves to clog the drain holes.

I'm going to look at this video for seal and bearing replacement to get an idea of how to get at the bearings for a visual inspection.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-eAvoBI59Y

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

The WM0642 washer is an older model washer.

Bearing failure would not be unheard of.

Could be in the early stage of decline.

As for lint in the gasket...normal.

Best actions to take...

Replace the Inner and Outer Tub Bearings.

Bearing Seal

Tub O-ring gasket

Drain Motor

Hall Sensor

Motor Wire Harness

Inner Drum

 

 

 

Edited by john63

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow.  That is a lot of work.  When I get home tonight, I will try and make time to pop the rear panel off and check for signs of water leaks and rust patterns.  I'll also retest for the amount of play in the front area.  I think I was pushing it up and down further back than I should have according to a couple of other videos I saw.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not all bearing failures will show evidence of leaking/rusty residue...especially in the early stage.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry for the delay.  Here are two vids:  one is the squealing right after it finished a cycle:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pyqSzvU60meMh66GQt083LoB4WiWpeKsnA/view?usp=sharing

After the machine had time to dry out, the squealing was not present when spinning the drum.  It was a little easier to spin when dry.  Also one thing that surprised me was that when I spin the drum one way and then the other way, the control panel turns on as if I pressed the power button.  Is it supposed to do that?  You can hear it ding around the 5 second mark in the spinning video.

In this one I tried to manipulate the drum up and down as far forward as possible while trying to keep the phone steady. 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1e1MhB09skC8svgZT1Su6amP4-HtGF2iDHg/view?usp=sharing

Just want to provide as much info as possible before I suck it up and have to steel myself for the bearing replacement.  One more thing it is the /01 variant if that matters at all.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 minutes ago, max4677 said:

It was a little easier to spin when dry.  

 

Normal.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 minutes ago, max4677 said:

  Also one thing that surprised me was that when I spin the drum one way and then the other way, the control panel turns on as if I pressed the power button.  Is it supposed to do that?  

 

 

Yes. Normal.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 minutes ago, max4677 said:

 One more thing it is the /01 variant if that matters at all.

 

Possibly.

Post the Serial Number.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/19/2017 at 9:02 AM, john63 said:

The WM0642 washer is an older model washer.

Bearing failure would not be unheard of.

Could be in the early stage of decline.

As for lint in the gasket...normal.

Best actions to take...

Replace the Inner and Outer Tub Bearings.

Bearing Seal

Tub O-ring gasket

Drain Motor

Hall Sensor

Motor Wire Harness

Inner Drum

 

Won't that cost more than the cost of a new unit?  

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, PenelopePendleton said:

 

I did a quick pricing of everything he listed there with shipping to my location and it came out to about $450 at repair clinic.  With labor it would be replacement time.  However, if I scale it back down to the seal between the two halves of the plastic outer drum, the two bearings, and the seal, the cost of parts comes down to around $110 before shipping.  

I got around to opening the back after a load last night and the noise is louder and seems to be coming from the suspected area.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mC1nVlzv1HJ5HVe8BVrurqR3JTucsAi9Og/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1W7iq2jZJybjT7FGHNJCTmss9747wLXTSHQ/view?usp=sharing

Serial number is: 806KWFN05307

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And duh on asking if spinning the drum would cause the panel to light up briefly.  Completely forgot a generator is basically a motor in reverse...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Purchasing all of those components...at retail...will not exceed the cost of a new LG front load washer.

However...it is a significant investment.

One factor that comes into play with a washer like this model....

For some owners...replacing the washer is not an option as the rear control front load LG washers are no longer made.

All new front load LG washers have the Control Panel at the front...making it impossible to retain a "matching" washer and dryer appearance in the laundry room.

Replacing both the washer and dryer would be necessary for those owners that wish to keep a similar appearance in the laundry room.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll be putting in an order for the bearings, bearing seal, and the tub seal later today.  Hard part is finding time to do the repair.  Will check back in afterwards with a report.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Decided to do the rotor sensor as well.  Probably isn't necessary since the few times we got LE codes, it was due to oversized/out of balance loads, but since I will have that area torn up anyway, I might as well do it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The original Hall Sensor on your washer is prone to failure.

Replacement Hall Sensors are improved.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0