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GE Profile fridge PFSS9PKY driving me coo coo


claesson1975

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claesson1975

My wife wants me to call a repair guy but I'm stubborn and want to fix this myself so any help will be greatly appreciated!

My Profile refrigerator stopped cooling in both the freezer and refrigerator sections.

I pulled it out and poked around, the fan and compressor were off when I pulled the panel off but kicked in for no apparent reason and the fridge started cooling.  Everything was great for about 24 hours.......then it warmed up again.

I pulled it out and power cycled...unplugged for a minute and plugged it back in.  Compressor and fans kicked, fridge/ freezer cooled off and everything was great for about 48 hours...then it warmed up again.

I'm guessing it's one of the control boards (there are 2) but they're pricey and don't want to be throwing darts.

Any help guys is greatly appreciated...Thanks!

 

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This is a Samsung built unit... first step would be running diagnostics to check for error codes.

Then you will need a multi-meter to start testing components based on the codes (or lack thereof)

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does this thing have the LCD screen for a dispenser panel?

If so, press the "SETTINGS" pad from the main screen

Then tap the "A" and "B" zones in this pattern within 5 seconds: A-B-A-B-A-B-A

Then press Service Diagnostics

Then press Self Diagnostic Test

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  • 2 weeks later...
claesson1975

I couldn't figure out how to get the error codes off the lcd so I broke down and called GE who sent out their tech.

He himself didn't know how to get the error codes but he was able to call their tech support and it wasn't throwing any error codes.

He quoted me a new compressor and pba inverter board for $900 with installation and told me to buy a new fridge.

Question 1 - if the pba inverter board was bad wouldn't it at least throw an error code?

Question 2 - the compressor runs and fans run...according to the flow chart posted on this forum it says "sealed system failure, buy new fridge"....does this mean I have a leak somewhere in the welded / brazed tubing circuit?  If that's the case...is the GE tech correct in quoting me an inverter board and compressor?  Would that actually fix the problem if there is a leak somewhere else in the system?

These two parts are $477 on this website.  

Question 3 - If I bought them would I solve the problem?  

 

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I have seen the inverter board work intermittently, cooling for awhile, then shutting down. I've unplugged the unit, waited the 4-7 minutes for the boards to run their self-diagnostics and wait for the compressor to start. Sometimes the compressor would start, and sometimes the inverter board would show the LED code for a compressor start failure. Note that where never any failure codes from the main PCB. The compartment behind the inverter board was a dark brown, and the board itself smelled of electrical burn, signs of over heating. I was a part changing monkey until, finally, replacing the inverter board solve the issue (had tried the main PCB first).

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Richard Demint
On 7/6/2017 at 5:48 PM, claesson1975 said:

I couldn't figure out how to get the error codes off the lcd so I broke down and called GE who sent out their tech.

He himself didn't know how to get the error codes but he was able to call their tech support and it wasn't throwing any error codes.

He quoted me a new compressor and pba inverter board for $900 with installation and told me to buy a new fridge.

Question 1 - if the pba inverter board was bad wouldn't it at least throw an error code?

Question 2 - the compressor runs and fans run...according to the flow chart posted on this forum it says "sealed system failure, buy new fridge"....does this mean I have a leak somewhere in the welded / brazed tubing circuit?  If that's the case...is the GE tech correct in quoting me an inverter board and compressor?  Would that actually fix the problem if there is a leak somewhere else in the system?

These two parts are $477 on this website.  

Question 3 - If I bought them would I solve the problem?  

 

Wow, alot going on in this post, first off unless you know how to braze in a new compressor do not buy the parts especially if you do not even know for sure that is what is wrong. To me it sounds like the "tech" wanted nothing to do with the job. Did he take the back wall cover off in freezer section while it was running to inspect frost pattern?

Ok so it still works fine for periods 24hrs to 48hrs correct? if yes most likely you do not have a leak

Inverter boards do go bad but so do control boards and more common in my opinion and always my first guess as a culprit along with thermosisters

Are you condenser coils clean? Back of unit at bottom, you have to remove cover also check if condenser fan is running I would assume the GE tech did this but then again I leaned a long time ago not to assume anything.

Sometimes a simple unplugging connectors and plugging back in can make a world of difference and is referenced in many service repair manuals.

How handy are you? Do you feel comfortable tackling this job? Do you have a multi-meter and know how to use it? If no stop and either get a qualified tech out there that is not through "GE" and get a second opinion. If yes then we need to get you the service manual for this unit first.

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So you took off the back panel and the compressor started and the unit cooled. Second time you moved unit again, unplugged it, plugged back in and it started cooling. If it's cooling sounds more like a loose connection somewhere, bad house receptacle, faulty power cord, not a sealed system issue. Could be inverter, thermistors or main board, but I'd rule out a power connection issue first.

Edited by georgerdavis
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