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Mikey P

Whirlpool Fridge ET8MTKXKQ0 Not Defrosting

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Mikey P

Hi,

Been around the block a few times with the fridge above.   About 16 years old.  Fridge and freezer got too warm.  Cleaned condensor coils (filthy), defrosted frosted-over evaporator coils with a hair dryer.  Both fan by compressor and one by evaporator coils are running.  Has since been OK, EXCEPT fridge hasn't stopped running YET.  Have a clicking noise from control console (timer maybe) and the compressor and both bottom and top fans seems to "hesitate" as the thingy in the control console makes clicking noise-  sound from compressor and fans almost sounds like a car revving.  Have zero moisture in plastic pan that sits to right of condensor coils, that's supposed to catch the defrost.

 

Normally, I would guess its the timer that needs replaced, but I can't understand why the compressor would run CONSTANTLY since I defrosted the coils.  Do I need to replace the timer AND a thermostat or two??

 

Advice???? 

I'm fairly handy, but not well-versed with a VOM, even though I have one.

 

TIA.

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Richard Demint
1 hour ago, Mikey P said:

Hi,

Been around the block a few times with the fridge above.   About 16 years old.  Fridge and freezer got too warm.  Cleaned condensor coils (filthy), defrosted frosted-over evaporator coils with a hair dryer.  Both fan by compressor and one by evaporator coils are running.  Has since been OK, EXCEPT fridge hasn't stopped running YET.  Have a clicking noise from control console (timer maybe) and the compressor and both bottom and top fans seems to "hesitate" as the thingy in the control console makes clicking noise-  sound from compressor and fans almost sounds like a car revving.  Have zero moisture in plastic pan that sits to right of condensor coils, that's supposed to catch the defrost.

 

Normally, I would guess its the timer that needs replaced, but I can't understand why the compressor would run CONSTANTLY since I defrosted the coils.  Do I need to replace the timer AND a thermostat or two??

 

Advice???? 

I'm fairly handy, but not well-versed with a VOM, even though I have one.

 

TIA.

I believe you have your model number wrong?  ET8WTKXKQO Your on the right track, cold control and defrost timer sounds like your issue. Since your handy go ahead and take freezer back panel off, check frost pattern on evap. all coils should be equally covered in frost, next check the resistance on heater element should have resistance and also check defrost termination thermostat should be closed "no resistance" when cold. There "should" be a tech sheet folded nicely away under unit, under kick plate or under hinge cover that should give you some basic info also.

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Mikey P

I think I definitely have a defrost timer issue. I'd like, for cost reasons, to switch to a mechanical timer. 

 

Any thoughts???

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16345Ed
12 hours ago, Mikey P said:

I think I definitely have a defrost timer issue. I'd like, for cost reasons, to switch to a mechanical timer. 

 

Any thoughts???

We need to ensure correct model number. Appears to use mechanical timer already. 

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Hiroshi

First step is to closely inspect the defrost thermostat: the epoxy should be perfectly flush with the metal rim of the thermostat, if the epoxy is even slightly pulled away, the thermostat has water inside of it and will fail completely soon, if it hasn't already... WR50X55 kit works great in 90% of units out there and it is CHEAP.

If you have established the thermostat and heater are OK...:

ET8WTKXKQ00 uses the part # WP2304099 Part number:

Part number:Part number: WP2304099

Part number: WP2304099

 

You can use a mechanical timer  - or a SUPCO EDT11 works well, as you can set the defrost frequency and duration.  You have to connect the WH to BR wires that are left over to maintain light function... I am fairly certain they ran the lights through the ADC just to make it appear essential.

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Mikey P
On 7/27/2017 at 0:13 PM, Hiroshi said:

First step is to closely inspect the defrost thermostat: the epoxy should be perfectly flush with the metal rim of the thermostat, if the epoxy is even slightly pulled away, the thermostat has water inside of it and will fail completely soon, if it hasn't already... WR50X55 kit works great in 90% of units out there and it is CHEAP.

If you have established the thermostat and heater are OK...:

ET8WTKXKQ00 uses the part # WP2304099 Part number:

Part number:Part number: WP2304099

Part number: WP2304099

 

You can use a mechanical timer  - or a SUPCO EDT11 works well, as you can set the defrost frequency and duration.  You have to connect the WH to BR wires that are left over to maintain light function... I am fairly certain they ran the lights through the ADC just to make it appear essential.

 

 

Hi,

 

Thanks for all the replies. You guys are wonderful. 

I DEFINATELY have the ADC timer and I DEFINATELY don't want to replace it, in an 16 year old fridge for $200 or so. 

Hiroshi, can you tell me WHICH mechanical timer you would recommend (part number) or clarify what exactly a "SUPCO EDT11" is???  I'm afraid that means nothing to me. 

 

Mikey P.

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Richard Demint
2 hours ago, Mikey P said:

 

 

Hi,

 

Thanks for all the replies. You guys are wonderful. 

I DEFINATELY have the ADC timer and I DEFINATELY don't want to replace it, in an 16 year old fridge for $200 or so. 

Hiroshi, can you tell me WHICH mechanical timer you would recommend (part number) or clarify what exactly a "SUPCO EDT11" is???  I'm afraid that means nothing to me. 

 

Mikey P.

it is a universal timer, I use them everyday just google it or ebay sells them new also

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Hiroshi

Defrost Timer - Part # 964761 Mfg Part # EDT11 Sealed Unit Parts Company EDT11

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Mikey P

OK.  Quick update on issue above.

 

Ordered defrost thermostat and Supco timer and received last week.  Installed Supco timer, and didn't see any change.  Went today (Sunday, 13th), to defrost coils with heat gun and found original defrost thermostat had a "lid" that was partially open.  So I replaced it (hard wired it with wire nuts).

 

Could itbe that the defrost thermostat was my ONLY issue???  If so, I don't q

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Mikey P

OK.  Quick update on issue above.

 

Ordered defrost thermostat and Supco timer and received last week.  Installed Supco timer, and didn't see any change.  Went today (Sunday, 13th), to defrost coils with heat gun and found original defrost thermostat had a "lid" that was partially open.  So I replaced it (hard wired it with wire nuts).

 

Could itbe that the defrost thermostat was my ONLY issue???  If so, maybe I'm misunderstanding how the defrost cycle works.

 

I thought that the timer or ADC "told" the defrost thermostat to come on and provide energy to the heater.  If it's the other way around, that might explain what was going on.

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Hiroshi

Nope- the defrost timer acts more like a gateway that the voltage has to pass through before energizing the heating element. It has what is called a "bi-metal" inside of it, which is a strip of metal that is extremely sensitive to temparature... they are the first suspect in defrost failures which is why I said this:

On 7/27/2017 at 11:13 AM, Hiroshi said:

First step is to closely inspect the defrost thermostat

 

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electro_doc

It's possible your only problem was the deft thermostat. The timer sends power to the thermostat that if closed will supply power to the heaters.  If open as it sounds like yours was, the heaters  would never get power from the timer and hence not work. If your heater is and your timer is sending power to them and they are not getting power then you need to change the thermostat.

Hope this clarifies it a little better.

Doc

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Mikey P

Ok, guys. Semi-new issue here. Have a bunch of frost in the freezer compartment-not on the coils.  Temp in freezer and fridge is correct  

 

Freezer door passes the dollar-bill test on all 4 sides. 

 

Since I replaced the original control model with an adjustable one, would tweaking the defrost times/lengths possibly help with this???

 

TIA. 

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AccApp

Where is the frost?

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Mikey P

 

4 hours ago, AccApp said:

Where is the frost?

 

Accumulating on the frozen food products, IN the freezer. 

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AccApp

Check the fridge door gasket, air can enter through there and the compartments are connected.

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