Whirlpool ED5FVGXVS00 not making ice, all parts replaced (I think)

[integr8shun]

Hi All,

My ice maker stopped working right after I cleaned the condenser coils, which was an odd coincidence (?). Here's the order of events:

Ordered/rec'd new ice maker assy - filler funnel was broken on new unit, so replacement was sent. Installed, still no ice.

Ordered/installed water valves, still no ice.  Ohm'd original valves and got 250 and 500 ohms so I guess that wasn't the problem. 

Checked for blockage on water inlet tube with pipe cleaner - none. Video I saw showed that I had the "updated" version.

Learned that jumping certain holes on ice maker head can either call for water (worked) or call for manual ice harvest (did not work). 

Thinking the new head on the ice maker was faulty, I replaced it with the head from the other new unit that came with broken filler funnel mentioned above. Still could not get it to do a manual harvest. (Never manually turned dial on any of the units)

I checked the connector into the ice maker and am getting either 120 VAC or 15VAC; I don't have a wiring diagram so I don't know which pin was supposed to give me what voltage. The jump ports for the manual harvest were giving me 15VAC. 

Could I have gotten 2 defective ice maker units? I replaced everything in the system, right? Is there another diagnostic I can do? Or should I just request another replacement ice maker?

Thanks for the help!
Ken

[applianceman1]

Did you download the tech sheet for the frig?

It will tell you how to test the icemaker. 

It needs to be below 15' in the frezzer for the maker to make ice.

 

[integr8shun]

Thanks applianceman1!  I did not know there are downloads available but see that section now and will download and test.

I kept the ice makers in the freezer for 24 hours and confirmed with standalone thermometer that temp was zero degrees.

[integr8shun]

applianceman1:

Apparently I need to upgrade my account by paying ~$200 to download from this site, is that right?

I searched around and it does not seem readily available.  Is there somewhere else i can download it from?

Thanks,

[applianceman1]

If you do appliance repair, it's definitely worth it. 

Google appliance repair service manual. 

You'll have to pay.

 

[AccApp]

It's hidden in your fridge somewhere, look behind the bottom grille, under the top hinge covers and behind the lower back panel

[AccApp]

You should get 120vac between "L" and "N", and "T" and "H". If you connect "L" and "V" for a few seconds it should fill with water. DO NOT try to turn the dial manually, you'll break something.

[AccApp]

I like how sears gives two different part numbers and three different prices for the icemaker.

[MoTeD]

on the ice maker harness you have 4 wires, black, white, green, tan. black, white, and green are hot, common and ground respectively. the tan and white is supposed to give you 110-120vac (i've measured as low as 106vac)for about 8 seconds at the end of the forced harvest. test this also at the water valve connection to the ice maker solenoid. what is your water pressure like? disconnect the supply hose at teh refrigerator and turn the water supply on.

[integr8shun]

Thanks guys.  I found the sheet in the front grill and the heating element ohm'd at 72 and the switch was closed as the freezer temp was 0*F.

However I'm only getting 15VAC at L/N and T/H.

I get water when I jump L/V.  Pressure is good, tray filled in a few seconds.

Any suggestions?

Thanks again!

[Rhubarb Tau]

Depending on your probes, sometimes it can be tricky to make consistent contact with the test points. 15VAC could be one probe of your meter not making contact.

If you get a fill when you jump L to V, we know there's 120 to the icemaker. Maybe you have an open neutral.

When you're taking these voltages, are you measuring with one probe in L and one probe in N?

If so, try checking voltage between the L terminal and the green wire, or anything else that's grounded (like bare metal on the door hinge).

For that matter, you could unplug the unit and you should have continuity between one blade of the plug and the L test point, and continuity between the other blade and the N test point.

[MoTeD]

What happens when you Jump L/H? That should force a harvest mode. Make sure the door switch is taped closed. Test continuity on your door switch. Make sure you unplug the machine before you remove the door switch or it could possibly arc to ground.

[integr8shun]

On 8/20/2017 at 6:39 PM, Rhubarb Tau said:

Depending on your probes, sometimes it can be tricky to make consistent contact with the test points. 15VAC could be one probe of your meter not making contact.

If you get a fill when you jump L to V, we know there's 120 to the icemaker. Maybe you have an open neutral.

When you're taking these voltages, are you measuring with one probe in L and one probe in N?

If so, try checking voltage between the L terminal and the green wire, or anything else that's grounded (like bare metal on the door hinge).

For that matter, you could unplug the unit and you should have continuity between one blade of the plug and the L test point, and continuity between the other blade and the N test point.

Thanks for your replies.  Yes I had 1 probe in L and another in N.  I got 120 VAC between both L and the green wire and L and the door hinge.  I'm getting .5 ohm between L and and one blade of the plug and 4.5 ohm between L and the other blade of the plug.  I have no continuity between N and either of the blades on the plug.

Not sure if this is relevant but I get about 5.5K ohm between M and either of the blades, about 75 ohm between H and either blade, 200 ohm between V and either blade and T is open between either blade.

Is there a circuit board for the ice maker somewhere?  No right?

On 8/24/2017 at 9:40 PM, MoTeD said:

What happens when you Jump L/H? That should force a harvest mode. Make sure the door switch is taped closed. Test continuity on your door switch. Make sure you unplug the machine before you remove the door switch or it could possibly arc to ground.

Jumping LH did not give me a manual harvest.  Door switch is giving me continuity between Y and BK when it is in open position and BB and BK when it is in closed position.

 

Thanks again guys.

[Rhubarb Tau]

No circuit board, just copper contacts, switches a temp switch, motor and heater. 

You should have a direct connection between the N point and plug neutral. Sounds to me like you have an open neutral somewhere between the I/M an the plug. The fill valve would work when jumped because it gets its neutral near the valve, not through the I/M.

I'd pull the I/M, test for N continuity to the plug from the white wire in the 4-pin I/M plug. If nothing, you'll have to work your way upstream, see whee the open is. If you have a good neutral at the 4-pin Icemaker plug, you're losing neutral somewhere in the I/M. Either pop the head off and chase it down or replace the icemaker. 

As an aside, 4.5 ohms between the L and N prongs of the plug seems strange at first, but your meter my be seeing an EMI filter that looks like a low resistance at DC (what your meter is using to test for continuity), but acts like a higher resistance at 60Hz and an even higher resistance to spurious high frequency content.  The wiring diagram doesn't show a filter, and maybe it's something else, but I wouldn't get distracted by it.