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Maytag Washer LAT8740AAL won't agitate in wash and rinse cycles


ArL2016

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ISSUE 1 - BURNING RUBBER SMELL

About a month ago our Maytag Washer LAT8740AAL, about 20 years old, began emitting a burning rubber smell during a wash cycle. Within a minute or so of smelling the burning rubber I pushed the timer dial in to shut the washer off.

I researched the issue and determined the two belts at the bottom of the washer needed to be replaced.

The old belts were stiff and had some small cracks in them, I’m pretty sure they were the original 20 year-old belts.

I ordered and installed two new belts.

To tighten the transmission belt, I used the “pull the motor” method shown in this video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUjCTPbN8IM.

This fixed this problem.

 

ISSUE 2 - NO AGITATION DURING WASH OR RINSE CYCLES, SPIN CYCLES WORKS FINE TO DRAIN WATER FROM THE TUB

After installing new belts, the washer worked fine for a week or so but then sometimes during a wash cycle, it would fill up the tub with water but then the washer would not begin to agitate.

I checked the new belts, they appeared to be installed correctly and working properly but I thought that maybe the transmission belt tension was maybe too tight or too loose so this time I used the “pinch” method in this video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RYSjOLkCr5w but the no agitation problem persisted.

I could sometimes get the washer to agitate by doing one or more of the following “fixes”:

a. Pushing the timer dial in and out several times to turn the washer on or off,

b. Turning the timer dial all the way around,

c. Moving the water level lever up and down to reset the water level,  and

d. Opening and closing the washer lid several times.

These temporary fixes seemed to solve this no agitation problem enough that I didn't try to diagnose or fix anything else.

 

ISSUE 3 - SAME AS ISSUE 2 BUT NOW MY TEMPORARY FIXES NO LONGER WORK AND THE WASHER WILL NOT AGITATE AT ALL IN WASH OR RINSE CYCLES

My issue 2 temporary fixes lasted for maybe a week, and now no amount of fiddling will get the washer to agitate after the tub fills with water.

However, if I turn the timer dial to the spin cycle and start the washer, the agitator will spin and the washer will drain the water from the tub.

I did some more research and determined the problem might be due to one or more of the lid switch parts.

I bought and installed a new Lid Switch Assembly, part number WP22001682, but that did not fix the problem of no agitation in the wash and rinse cycles.

I then bought a Lid Switch part number W10820036 and after it arrived I realized I had ordered the wrong part. I thought I was ordering the Lid Plunger and Bracket Kit part number 204968.

I went to two local appliance parts stores, neither one had the Lid Plunger and Bracket Kit part number 204968 in stock but one of them did have the Lid Switch Actuator Spring part number WP213720 for it for $12.00. YIKES!!!

I thought the old spring might be worn out so I bought the spring and installed it after cleaning the old, yellowed, gunked up grease off the plunger but this did not fix the no agitation problem either.

 

OTHER THINGS I DID

I removed the agitator and checked the splines, they seem just a little bit worn down but otherwise good and no cracks. The agitator will spin in the spin cycle so I’m guessing it wouldn’t if the splines were worn down too much.

I also cleaned out quite a bit of accumulated gunk at the bottom of the tub around the drive shaft underneath the agitator.

I just checked the Transmission Drive Pulley part number WP6-2301530.

I can turn the pulley CLOCKWISE fairly easily but turning the pulley COUNTER CLOCKWISE is difficult.

 

SOLUTIONS?

I think I read somewhere that the pulley issue means the washer needs a new transmission but given the $350 or so prices I’ve seen for a complete transmission, and possibly other new parts needed, I may just have to get a new washer instead. Also, I may not be handy enough to change out a transmission.

I’d really like to keep this old Maytag washer running if the parts are inexpensive enough and the repairs are easy enough for me to do.

I would appreciate any thoughts on what is causing the agitator to not agitate during the wash and rinse cycles.

 

Thanks!

 

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  • ArL2016

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When it's not agitating what is it doing? Any noise motor movement, could be a bad timer, if it's dead silent try wiggling the timer shaft when it should be agitating

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2 hours ago, sh2sh2 said:

When it's not agitating what is it doing? Any noise motor movement, could be a bad timer, if it's dead silent try wiggling the timer shaft when it should be agitating

Hi sh2sh2, thanks for your post!

I just ran a wash cycle, the tub fills up with water and then there is a kind of humming noise.

I got down near the motor and the humming noise is coming from there.

Also, when I open the top lid, I can see slight vibration waves moving around in the filled tub.

Is there a way to test the timer to see if it is bad?

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I just saw the appliantology link to AppliancePartsPros , that is where I bought the Lid Switch Assembly Kit Part number: AP6006235

Part number: AP6006235

 

According to appliancepartspros at this link, http://www.appliancepartspros.com/04-control-panel-parts-for-maytag-lat8740aal.html, there is the timer, part 19 which they no longer have available, and the timer motor part 22 which is in stock.

sh2sh2, are you referring to part 19 or 22 in your post above?

I guess it would be best to replace both parts.

 

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Dont think its a timer issue, could be wrong. Seems like if the motor is humming when its supposed to agitate then it is getting power. How much power? I dont know, you would have to put a meter on it. Remove the belt from pump pulley and make sure that it spins freely in both directions sometimes they cease. Also you can ohm out the motor windings and see if they are weak or open. Another thing to check is alot of old timers had contacts inside that can be cleaned up like old distributor points. 

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On 8/31/2017 at 11:33 PM, MoTeD said:

Dont think its a timer issue, could be wrong. Seems like if the motor is humming when its supposed to agitate then it is getting power. How much power? I dont know, you would have to put a meter on it. Remove the belt from pump pulley and make sure that it spins freely in both directions sometimes they cease. Also you can ohm out the motor windings and see if they are weak or open. Another thing to check is alot of old timers had contacts inside that can be cleaned up like old distributor points. 

Thanks for the reply!

Thursday night I found and ordered a new timer, part number Whirlpool 207373, should get here in a few days.

Tomorrow, I'll check the pump pulley and see if it spins freely as you suggested.

On 9/1/2017 at 1:45 AM, evaappliance said:

If the transmission is hard to turn counterclockwise it is bad. 

Thanks for the reply!

I found many reviews of newer washing machines and dryers that don't inspire a lot of confidence in their reliability. Lots of people complaining that their new washer needed repairs within a month or two of purchase

I found this page, http://www.applianceaid.com/age-maytag.php, and found out from the serial number that our washer was made in August of 1992.

Other than a minor water leak a few years ago that I easily fixed and these current problems, our 25 year-old Maytag washer has been problem-free so I'll probably end up looking for a transmission and may try to install myself.

 

 

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Even if you have to spend as much as a new washer would cost , your machine fixed properly will last longer than any new one,  with the possible exception of a new speed queen washer.

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On Sunday I replaced some shingles on the roof. I'm in my mid-50s and don't exercise much so the past few days I discovered muscles I had forgotten I had, they've been aching something fierce!

The day before I did the roof repairs, I had taken the old timer motor off and was going to take apart the timer to clean the contacts as MoTed suggested but wasn't able to open the timer. Instead, I removed the timer motor to clean it but then couldn't put it back on (Part number: AP6006688

Part number: AP6006688

Anyway, today the timer I found/ordered from Amazon arrived (Part number: 207373 not available from APP but a picture is available at this link  Whirlpool Timer 207373). I cleaned out a bit of grime and dust on the timer's shaft and installed it in the control panel.

The tub already had some water in it that I had forgotten to drain out before I took out/apart the old timer. I turned the timer dial to about 2 minutes in the wash cycle to see if it would start to agitate. It did not agitate.

I then moved the timer dial forward to the rinse position to see if that would make it agitate. It did not agitate.

I then moved the timer dial forward to the spin position to drain the water. As before, the agitator did spin counter clockwise and the water drained.

I then turned the timer dial all the way around and set it to about 6 minutes in the wash cycle. The tub filled with water and then this time it did begin to agitate, YAY!! I put in some kitchen towels and detergent and the wash cycle was able to complete. Right now, a second load of laundry is getting washed. I'll finish doing a few more loads of laundry before whatever voodoo magic is allowing the washer to now work disappears:)

So what about the transmission? The transmission pulley was difficult to turn so I hoped that the transmission wasn't bad as evaappliance suggested. Can the transmission be just bad enough that the transmission pulley is difficult to turn counter-clockwise, but still be good enough to agitate in the wash cycle and thus still need replacing sometime soon?

I haven't yet checked the pump pulley or the motor as MoTeD suggested. Now that the washer is agitating, I'm guessing this won't be necessary but I may do it anyway.

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On 9/3/2017 at 8:39 AM, evaappliance said:

Even if you have to spend as much as a new washer would cost , your machine fixed properly will last longer than any new one,  with the possible exception of a new speed queen washer.

 

On 9/3/2017 at 11:16 AM, A & G Enterprises said:

the old maytag will last you longer than the new ones for sure

After reading lots of bad reviews about new washers, I agree with you both and now that this old Maytag washer is working properly again, we'll be keeping it for maybe another 25 years!

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yes , but also the oil in the transmission is very thick and can make it a little harder to turn when it is cold.  see how hard it is to turn after you wash a load or two. you should be able to turn it counterclockwise with one finger (give or take a little)   

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On 9/7/2017 at 8:17 AM, evaappliance said:

yes , but also the oil in the transmission is very thick and can make it a little harder to turn when it is cold.  see how hard it is to turn after you wash a load or two. you should be able to turn it counterclockwise with one finger (give or take a little)   

I checked the transmission pulley after two loads last night as you suggested and you are absolutely correct, it was very easy to turn it counter-clockwise with just one finger (whereas before I had to use both hands) so I feel confident the transmission is fine and hopefully won't need any repairs for a long time.

Just did two more loads this morning and this 25-year old Maytag washer is as dependable as ever.

Next will be installing new rollers and shafts, drum belt, tumbler seals and dryer bearing kit in the companion Maytag dryer that is getting a bit noisy, I'm pretty sure those items are the originals and have never been replaced.

Thanks to everyone that posted replies, I found them all very helpful in diagnosing and repairing the washer.

 

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what kind of noise is the dryer making?      you hardly ever have to put seals on:)

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1 hour ago, evaappliance said:

what kind of noise is the dryer making?      you hardly ever have to put seals on:)

It doesn't always make the noise, I'm running it right now and t's making a squeaking noise.

As for the seals, I figure since I'll be in there changing out other parts I might as well change out the seals. Once I do open it up, maybe I'll see the seals are in good condition and won't need to change them.

All this fixing stuff is getting me ambitious. :D

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Most likely the rollers.  Usually a good idea to put a new belt on preventavly. Just check blower wheel for play , & make sure the front glides are good & you will be good to go ?

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Glad to hear that the washing machine is in working order again. Im a little concenred that the machine didnt function as expected right away. Other than that, I would strongly recommend changing the seals just for the simple fact that Whirlpool will not support this machine forever. 

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Several more loads done and the washer is working like it should so it looks like the timer was the culprit. sh2sh2, thanks for pointing me to the timer, I don't think I I saw anything in my research that stated the timer could be the problem, and it didn't even cross my mind that the timer might be the cause of the no agitation. I was thinking more along a mechanical issue such as the transmission, motor, pulley, etc.

I haven't worked on the dryer yet, I've been busy with other things but thanks to everyone for the suggestions.

 

On 9/9/2017 at 12:48 AM, evaappliance said:

Most likely the rollers.  Usually a good idea to put a new belt on preventavly. Just check blower wheel for play , & make sure the front glides are good & you will be good to go ?

Thanks for the reply, I'll be sure to check the blower wheel for play as you suggested.

 

On 9/10/2017 at 2:03 PM, Scottthewolf said:

Check idler pulley also.

Thanks for the reply, I'll check the idler pulley too when I get the dryer opened up.

 

On 9/12/2017 at 12:26 AM, MoTeD said:

Glad to hear that the washing machine is in working order again. Im a little concenred that the machine didnt function as expected right away. Other than that, I would strongly recommend changing the seals just for the simple fact that Whirlpool will not support this machine forever. 

I guessed that it didn't agitate right away after putting in the new timer because:

1. I initially didn't turn the new timer dial one complete revolution to "reset" the washer, or

2. I didn't first drain the water from the tub before running the wash cycle with the new timer and thus didn't "reset" the washer.

 

MoTeD, which seals in the washer are you referring to?

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